These steps are how I convert the "Unicorn" antenna on my 2003 FX45 to a "Shark Fin" antenna. I use the Visual Garage Shark Finn antenna for the conversion. There is a little reception lost after the conversion; stations that was clear with the factory antenna now gets a static and crackle once in a while.
NOTE: The factory antenna mast cannot be ideally mounted back if you decided to undo the VG Shark Fin antenna. This due to the new location in the rear of the roof is too close to the edge and with the antenna mast position lower toward the rear, the hatch will hit it when it opens.
Drop the headliner to gain access to the 22 mm mounting nut, coax connector, the power connector, and remove the antenna.
1) Unclip the passenger sun visor, twist the clip counterclockwise to remove it.

2) Fry the cap off, unscrew the two phillips screws, and disconnect the power connector.

3) Remove the weather strip around the door and pull on the A pillar to remove it.

4) Pry on the cap, remove the 10 mm bolt on each end of the grab handle. Note , there is a hook behind the mounting hole to prevent it from falling off once the bolts are removed. Carefully fry with a small flat head screwdriver to remove the handle from the roof. I gave it a quick yank and the hook broken off.

5) Repeat the same steps to as the passenger side to remove the driver side sun visor. To remove the "card holder" on the driver side, pry the front of the card holder to release the two clip.

6) By now, the front of the headliner is hold up by two clip on the top side of the sunglasses holder, a velcro and a hook at the edge of sunroof opening.


7) Pull the headliner down enough and you'll have access to the 22 mm antenna mounting nut.

8) Disconnect the antenna coax and power connector on the edge of the passenger side roof area and remove the antenna.



Patch the factory antenna hole
9) I use a small piece of sheet metal and some Hercules ProProxy to patch the hole.



10) I use Bondo body filler to fill and patch the exterior of the hole. Not a clean patch with the Bondo...my first Bondo patch.


11) Sand and fill, sand and fill. Be sure that the patch is perfectly filled and smooth before prime and base coat.

12) Ready for paint.

13) All done with patching the hole and paint.

Prep the factory antenna to be installed into the Visual Garage Shark Fin antenna
14) Remove the four phillip screws and the tinny red colored screw to separate the outer antenna base and the antenna power circuit board


15) Reinstall the factory antenna gasket back on to the antenna circuit board.


16) Since I'm relocating the antenna to the rear of the car, I need to extend the antenna's coax and power cable. I didn't have any luck of finding an extension coax cable that fit the Nissan antenna connector so I decided to extend it myself by cut up an some generic coax extension.




17) Dry fit the VG Shark Fin antenna

18) This is where I relocated the antenna. It is 17.5" from each side of the roof rack (inside dimension between roof rack caps), 3" from the edge of the roof. The rear end of the VG Shark Fin antenna is 1.5" from the edge of the roof.

19) Ready to drill the new hole to mount the antenna.



20) I use a round file to file the round hole to perfectly fit the antenna base onto the roof.

21) I apply a liberal amount of grease onto the newly drilled hole to help seal off moisture to prevent rush. I also applied a bead of silicone around the bottom side of the factory gasket to prevent any water seeping through. Press the factory gasket and antenna circuit board through the hole and tighten down the 22 mm nut on the interior side of the roof.


22) To connect the VG Shark Fin antenna to the factory antenna board, I drill a tinny hole into the mounting ring of the VG Shark Fin antenna. Connect the VG Shark Finn antenna to the factory antenna circuit board with the tinny red colored screw. I also applied a drop of Loctie on the screw to make sure it not coming apart.


23) to route the extended coax cable and power wire from the rear back to the front connectors, simply remove the necessary trim pieces to drop the headliner enough to fish the wire through.
24) All done.





NOTE: The factory antenna mast cannot be ideally mounted back if you decided to undo the VG Shark Fin antenna. This due to the new location in the rear of the roof is too close to the edge and with the antenna mast position lower toward the rear, the hatch will hit it when it opens.
Drop the headliner to gain access to the 22 mm mounting nut, coax connector, the power connector, and remove the antenna.
1) Unclip the passenger sun visor, twist the clip counterclockwise to remove it.

2) Fry the cap off, unscrew the two phillips screws, and disconnect the power connector.

3) Remove the weather strip around the door and pull on the A pillar to remove it.

4) Pry on the cap, remove the 10 mm bolt on each end of the grab handle. Note , there is a hook behind the mounting hole to prevent it from falling off once the bolts are removed. Carefully fry with a small flat head screwdriver to remove the handle from the roof. I gave it a quick yank and the hook broken off.

5) Repeat the same steps to as the passenger side to remove the driver side sun visor. To remove the "card holder" on the driver side, pry the front of the card holder to release the two clip.

6) By now, the front of the headliner is hold up by two clip on the top side of the sunglasses holder, a velcro and a hook at the edge of sunroof opening.


7) Pull the headliner down enough and you'll have access to the 22 mm antenna mounting nut.

8) Disconnect the antenna coax and power connector on the edge of the passenger side roof area and remove the antenna.



Patch the factory antenna hole
9) I use a small piece of sheet metal and some Hercules ProProxy to patch the hole.



10) I use Bondo body filler to fill and patch the exterior of the hole. Not a clean patch with the Bondo...my first Bondo patch.


11) Sand and fill, sand and fill. Be sure that the patch is perfectly filled and smooth before prime and base coat.

12) Ready for paint.

13) All done with patching the hole and paint.

Prep the factory antenna to be installed into the Visual Garage Shark Fin antenna
14) Remove the four phillip screws and the tinny red colored screw to separate the outer antenna base and the antenna power circuit board


15) Reinstall the factory antenna gasket back on to the antenna circuit board.


16) Since I'm relocating the antenna to the rear of the car, I need to extend the antenna's coax and power cable. I didn't have any luck of finding an extension coax cable that fit the Nissan antenna connector so I decided to extend it myself by cut up an some generic coax extension.




17) Dry fit the VG Shark Fin antenna

18) This is where I relocated the antenna. It is 17.5" from each side of the roof rack (inside dimension between roof rack caps), 3" from the edge of the roof. The rear end of the VG Shark Fin antenna is 1.5" from the edge of the roof.

19) Ready to drill the new hole to mount the antenna.



20) I use a round file to file the round hole to perfectly fit the antenna base onto the roof.

21) I apply a liberal amount of grease onto the newly drilled hole to help seal off moisture to prevent rush. I also applied a bead of silicone around the bottom side of the factory gasket to prevent any water seeping through. Press the factory gasket and antenna circuit board through the hole and tighten down the 22 mm nut on the interior side of the roof.


22) To connect the VG Shark Fin antenna to the factory antenna board, I drill a tinny hole into the mounting ring of the VG Shark Fin antenna. Connect the VG Shark Finn antenna to the factory antenna circuit board with the tinny red colored screw. I also applied a drop of Loctie on the screw to make sure it not coming apart.


23) to route the extended coax cable and power wire from the rear back to the front connectors, simply remove the necessary trim pieces to drop the headliner enough to fish the wire through.
24) All done.





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