Front Akebono Brakes Installed Still Shuddering When Braking

I'm feeling like I have the worst luck. Both sets of rotors are being returned as defective and the calipers are going up on eBay. Sick and tired of this car.
 
Have you ever taken the car to a professional shop for them to have a look at it?

I mean if you had this problem prior to the BBK, and after the BBK, and two sets of rotors, then common sense dictates that's not your problem.
 
meme405 said:
Have you ever taken the car to a professional shop for them to have a look at it?
I mean if you had this problem prior to the BBK, and after the BBK, and two sets of rotors, then common sense dictates that's not your problem.
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No, I havent taken it to a shop. I figured they would just start replacing parts and racking up my bill until I go broke or something actually fixes it.

415cpa said:
Did you try tightening the bolt on the steering rack?

https://www.infinitiscene.com/search/1/?q=11604-Steering-wheel-shake-fixed
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Did that a while back. I did a 1/8th turn before. I guess I could tighten it some more?

GOFAST24 said:
Check the rotor face run out on the car! Limits per my earlier post.

Good luck!
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I dont have the tools to check that but I'm hard pressed to believe that 2 new sets of rotors would have enough run out to cause shuddering, out of the box.
 
Maybe the pads are the problem. I would get a different set, or a different brand and try.
Project Mu pads are my choice.

The Akebonos are really good. Dont give up
 
STIBungy said:
No, I havent taken it to a shop. I figured they would just start replacing parts and racking up my bill until I go broke or something actually fixes it.



Did that a while back. I did a 1/8th turn before. I guess I could tighten it some more?



I dont have the tools to check that but I'm hard pressed to believe that 2 new sets of rotors would have enough run out to cause shuddering, out of the box.
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Checking the face run out will tell you for sure if the rotors are actually warped or the drive hub is a problem or the bearings are loose, etc.! A shop or the dealer should be able to do this for a few bucks and then you know for sure what is going on.
 
GOFAST24 said:
Check the rotor face run out with a dial indicator (or have a shop do it). Per my Infiniti dealer the limit for the rotors is =Front Rotor Runout 0.035mm (0.0013 inch)

Rear Rotor Runout 0.055mm (.0021 inch)

If yours are above that limit you need to turn the rotors either on a lathe or on the vehicle. My son had the same problem on his FX50S after having a parts store turn his original OEM rotors and after installation on the car he had bad shake and vibration. A dial indicator check showed over 0.007 run out. He bought new oem rotors and they solved the problem.
Good luck.

---------- Post added at 08:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:57 AM ----------

Sorry for the font color guys, it was a cut and paste from a e mail from my dealer!
Check the rotor face run out with a dial indicator (or have a shop do it). Per my Infiniti dealer the limit for the rotors is =
RCheck the rotor face run out with a dial indicator (or have a shop do it). Per my Infiniti dealer the limit for the rotors is =
Front Rotor Runout 0.035mm (0.0013 inch)

Rear Rotor Runout 0.055mm (.0021 inch)

If yours are above that limit you need to turn the rotors either on a lathe or on the vehicle. My son had the same problem on his FX50S after having a parts store turn his original OEM rotors and after installation on the car he had bad shake and vibration. A dial indicator check showed over 0.007 run out. He bought new oem rotors and they solved the problem.
Good luck.ear Rotor Runout 0.055mm (.0021 inch)

If yours are above that limit you need to turn the rotors either on a lathe or on the vehicle. My son had the same problem on his FX50S after having a parts store turn his original OEM rotors and after installation on the car he had bad shake and vibration. A dial indicator check showed over 0.007 run out. He bought new oem rotors and they solved the problem.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

You must have missed this post. This is the answer. Just because the parts are brand new does not mean they will have perfect tolerances. I would take the car to a shop and have them check the run out and it will likely be out of spec. Have the on car lathe service done and that will correct for any run out in the rotor/hub. Just remember after this, if you remove the rotors, you have to keep the same studs aligned with the same holes in the rotors, as the rotors and hubs will be indexed to each other to maintain the smallest run out. I've been dealing with this same issue and although I've been buying quality parts and they claim specific specs, it's not worth the run around to prove your case, and even if you prove your case, their solution will be to send you more parts(which will have the same inconsistencies) and you are back at square one. Just have the on car lathe done, and be done with it. I chalk it up companies just going to shit every year as all they are worried about is their profits.
 
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I don't have the Akebono's but i've suffered long time by a shaking steering wheel when braking and at certain speeds.
Had the OEM rotor re machined, later changed out the rotors for EBC rotors with Ferodo racing pads, still the same shaking.
Went to a pro alignment specialist and still suffered of a shaking steering wheel.

Now i finally went ahead and sorted out the adjustment bolt on the steering rack, and guess what??
No more shaking at all, it's completely gone, so there must be some play in there causing this issue.
My guess is that the steering rack is a bit on the light side for this type and weight of car.
The same is used on the 350Z, i've checked on my Z and it's all the same.

I would try and see if there is some more adjustment on there and the shaking should stop.
On mine i had to get it snug to make it go away completely, at first i gave it a 1/4 turn which made an improvement but it was still there.
So i wanted to know for sure to get rid of it and gave it another 1/8 of a turn (this was already when it felt tight) and after that it was gone.

In the manual i've seen there is just a spring behind that bolt that gives some pre tension on the steering rack, so when the bolt feels tight the spring starts getting tensioned and applies this on the rack, and with that removing the clearance that causes the shaking during driving and braking.
 
I've tightened that adjustment screw to where it won't turn anymore. Steering is very tight and the shaking is still there.

I've also gone as far as changing out the entire driver's side knuckle. No change.
 
Had my OEM rotors machined at the dealer for the first time right before summer kicked in this year. Shortly after they were machined, I got the steering shake like crazy under moderate to hard braking but I knew that I probably had warped the rotors with hard braking. Last week I swapped out all the OEM pads and rotors with new Stoptech pads and rotors and even though I'm not trilled with the performance of the pads, the new rotors fixed the steering shake.
 
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Did the rear brakes on the car yesterday. While I was at it, I picked up a new set of front rotors as well. This is my 6th set of front rotors. Yes, 6th! Drove the car about a block away and noticed it started shaking again when I had to brake for a speed bump in my neighborhood. Most certainly doubting the rotors are warping that quick. A couple of days before that, I tightened the steering bolt alot. To the point where the steering wheel doesnt return to center. I drove it for a day and it loosened up. I'm wondering if I should try to tighten it some more now that its back to normal feeling.
 
Make sure the bolt is actually loosening up and you're not creating more play in the system by over tightening. And if the bolt is loosening up, that seems to be a problem.

Have you looked into bushings? Maybe a damaged control arm bushing is causing some play that shows up under braking. After 6 sets of rotors, I think you can rule those out.
 
Looked at the bushings on the lower control arm today and both sides were fine. However, I did notice some play on the driver's side wheel. Thought it was wheel bearing, although I just replaced it less than 10k miles ago. Turns out to the be the ball joint for the outer tie rod. I didnt notice this before so not sure if the shaking wore it out or what. I just ordered both outer tie rods. *le sigh*:disapointed:
 
Parts finally arrived. Replaced both outer tie rods last night. Still shaking. Now I need to get an alignment too. :at-wits-end:

The good thing is I got to drive the STI for a week. Fast and fun. Twin disc clutch, not so fun.
 
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