I was not satisfied with the stock Infiniti horns. I decided to replace them with some louder ones, and have used the same horns on my last 2 cars and is currently on my wife's Subaru, which came with the little 'beep' horns. These are made by Fiamm, and are the Freeway Blasters; 130db at 4 inches. Pretty loud. These are the ones you want and you will be happy with these. Fiamm makes two versions of the 'AM80S' (their product number). You must get the Freeway Blaster low tone (part 72112) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DINKPQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and high tone (part 72102) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKKOK6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER. You may find them at your auto parts store. I bought mine at Pep Boys. It was a little more than Amazon, but after shipping and tax, the store was only $3 more, and I did not want to wait 3-5 days. Here is what they look like.
This took me about 30 minutes, only because I had to figure out how to get to the second horn. First, remove the cover over the radiator by popping the 4 clips. If you are baller enough to have an FX50, you'll probably have more clips to remove.
The first horn is a cinch. Unplug the two connectors and use an 8mm socket to remove the horn from the bracket. One of the connectors is a clip that is held in place when the horn is mounted. This little clip will try to drop down somewhere and will be impossible to retrieve. Hang on to it when removing the horn. You won't need it, but don't leave pieces loose down there. Leave the bracket there; life is hard enough. The second horn is under the driver's side headlight.
Next you'll need a 10mm socket. Remove this screw. It is on the driver's side and connects the airbox to the inner wheel well.
Loosen the clamp on the flexible air intake from the airbox to the intake runner.
Lift the airbox up. There are two rubber grommets securing the bottom of the airbox to the car's frame. The two rubber grommets should stay in the car's frame. Lift the airbox up and over to the left so you can gain access under the headlight.
The second horn is down low. If you can grow a second elbow, do this now. If not, get your 8mm socket and somehow get both arms and hands in there. One hand to crank the socket wrench, the other to hold the horn and keep from spinning. Remember to catch the clip. This is the hardest part of the whole job. It's not bad.
Now you just reverse everything. Sorry I didn't take more photos from here. My hands were dirty and didn't want to get it on my phone. Be careful when attaching the connectors to the horn under the headlight. There is not much of a lead wire from the harness to go to the horn. You want the horn opening facing the ground so water does not get in there.
Here's what happened to me and may happen to you. Once I reconnect everything, I hit the horn button to test it. Very loud. I fire the car up, and it throws a code! P0101! The car was idling a little rough and at about 1200rpm. I look it up and it is the mass air flow sensor. I figured the MAF was unhappy after I disconnected the rubber air intake and the MAF was exposed to regular air. If you see the MAF in the airbox, don't touch it! There is witchcraft and magic in it. I got my phone and with the paired OBD II scanner, I was able to clear the code using the android app 'Torque'. Instantly the idle smoothed and dropped down to about 800rpm. I have driven ~50 miles since I cleared the code and the 'service engine soon' light has not come back on. I would recommend getting the OBD II bluetooth scanner anyways. About $12 and very handy. Hope this was helpful.
This took me about 30 minutes, only because I had to figure out how to get to the second horn. First, remove the cover over the radiator by popping the 4 clips. If you are baller enough to have an FX50, you'll probably have more clips to remove.
The first horn is a cinch. Unplug the two connectors and use an 8mm socket to remove the horn from the bracket. One of the connectors is a clip that is held in place when the horn is mounted. This little clip will try to drop down somewhere and will be impossible to retrieve. Hang on to it when removing the horn. You won't need it, but don't leave pieces loose down there. Leave the bracket there; life is hard enough. The second horn is under the driver's side headlight.
Next you'll need a 10mm socket. Remove this screw. It is on the driver's side and connects the airbox to the inner wheel well.
Loosen the clamp on the flexible air intake from the airbox to the intake runner.
Lift the airbox up. There are two rubber grommets securing the bottom of the airbox to the car's frame. The two rubber grommets should stay in the car's frame. Lift the airbox up and over to the left so you can gain access under the headlight.
The second horn is down low. If you can grow a second elbow, do this now. If not, get your 8mm socket and somehow get both arms and hands in there. One hand to crank the socket wrench, the other to hold the horn and keep from spinning. Remember to catch the clip. This is the hardest part of the whole job. It's not bad.
Now you just reverse everything. Sorry I didn't take more photos from here. My hands were dirty and didn't want to get it on my phone. Be careful when attaching the connectors to the horn under the headlight. There is not much of a lead wire from the harness to go to the horn. You want the horn opening facing the ground so water does not get in there.
Here's what happened to me and may happen to you. Once I reconnect everything, I hit the horn button to test it. Very loud. I fire the car up, and it throws a code! P0101! The car was idling a little rough and at about 1200rpm. I look it up and it is the mass air flow sensor. I figured the MAF was unhappy after I disconnected the rubber air intake and the MAF was exposed to regular air. If you see the MAF in the airbox, don't touch it! There is witchcraft and magic in it. I got my phone and with the paired OBD II scanner, I was able to clear the code using the android app 'Torque'. Instantly the idle smoothed and dropped down to about 800rpm. I have driven ~50 miles since I cleared the code and the 'service engine soon' light has not come back on. I would recommend getting the OBD II bluetooth scanner anyways. About $12 and very handy. Hope this was helpful.
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