GTSPEC Strut Bar not Seating properly? Wrong Brackets in package??
- Thread starter SCY7H3
- Start date
- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
I was always told the opposite, which I believe is the proper way, and that is "the car should be sitting on the ground and level when you install a front strut tower brace."
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Sort of a never ending debate on whether or not to preload the bar. I don't know if it makes much difference either way, but preloading does make sense theoretically. When the car is on the ground, the strut towers are already loaded and deflecting slightly. So installing when the car is in the air, the strut towers are in a neutral position.
This is different than actually preloading the bar using built in adjusters (which not all bars have). FWIW, the 370Z OEM bars are preloaded from the factory.
Honestly though, it's mostly a moot point with just about all aftermarket bars. Preload, no preload doesn't really matter if they're just going to flex at the pivot point where the bar attaches to the bracket. I can't recall a single OEM bar with this sort of design. My old Protege5 had an OEM STB, just a steel bar bolted solidly to the strut towers. 370Z braces are steel and no pivots, same on my 335 (bolts the shock tower to the firewall).
This is different than actually preloading the bar using built in adjusters (which not all bars have). FWIW, the 370Z OEM bars are preloaded from the factory.
Honestly though, it's mostly a moot point with just about all aftermarket bars. Preload, no preload doesn't really matter if they're just going to flex at the pivot point where the bar attaches to the bracket. I can't recall a single OEM bar with this sort of design. My old Protege5 had an OEM STB, just a steel bar bolted solidly to the strut towers. 370Z braces are steel and no pivots, same on my 335 (bolts the shock tower to the firewall).
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Whether preloading should be done or not, from reading on other forums, it looks like installing the brackets the way that JD did (brackets first) would be your best bet. Then if I'm understanding the concept of preloading correctly raising the front of the car slightly until the bar seats properly may be the way to go.
Glad I read this thread I still have to install mine I been procrastinating. The washers don't seem like a bad idea and I think I'm going the definitely preload my strut bar. I think I like the idea of having the bar under constant preload as opposed to just being placed under a load when the chassis sways. I don't think I will lift the wheels completely off the ground to fully preload but I will certainly try preloading the bar a little bit. The concept makes sense for a stiffer chassis.
Glad I read this thread I still have to install mine I been procrastinating. The washers don't seem like a bad idea and I think I'm going the definitely preload my strut bar. I think I like the idea of having the bar under constant preload as opposed to just being placed under a load when the chassis sways. I don't think I will lift the wheels completely off the ground to fully preload but I will certainly try preloading the bar a little bit. The concept makes sense for a stiffer chassis.
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- Car
- 09 FX50
Brackets first, but I don't think washers are appropriate - won't it give the brackets too much "give" making the STB less effective? Neva I'll be around dec 15ish if you want a hand… I did mine in my school parking lot with the wrong tools and got it done in about 45 min by myself after a little trial and error. haha. Maybe we can see if my tune on friday actually does anything but increase #s too
The thing is there shouldn't be washers between the brackets and the towers. The bracket is incorrect and should be replaced. Gtspec obviously did not do their research properly and fabricated a flawed product that deviates from their intended purpose.
The issue I have is not with how I'm putting the bracket on but more of it not being designed to not create a bridge over that hump near the strut tower.
I wish stillen made a strut bar, they would never allow this major flaw
Sent from my SGH-I747
The issue I have is not with how I'm putting the bracket on but more of it not being designed to not create a bridge over that hump near the strut tower.
I wish stillen made a strut bar, they would never allow this major flaw
Sent from my SGH-I747
Yeah J, I'd appreciate that, hit me up when you come down I'll PM you my number. I was going to take it to a shop because I bought all the GT Spec braces for our car, 4 in total, so I was just going to let a shop do all four at once but if there's a fitment issue I would definitely want to do that bar myself so I can make sure I'm content with how the bar is installed. As far as the washers go I would only use them to fill gaps as a last resort. If I did use them to fill gaps it shouldn't make the STB less effective as long as the end result is that the brackets are seated flush. I would think that the bracket seated with a gap or at an angle is worse than using a washer to seat it. Once it's bolted down it shouldn't move especially because the washers are actually sitting around the bolts so it's not like they could slip out from under the bracket.
---------- Post added at 12:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:41 PM ----------
I agree.
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- Car
- 09 FX50
Instead of doing washers, just trim the metal to fit correctly? Obviously not all 09-14 FX are going to be the exact same, there are bound to me some slight differences in the interior metalwork (like a little hump) + there are bound to be some differences in GTspec's metalwork - we already know they buy and relabel from a generic manufacturer (summit racing uses the same and is cheaper) so it's expected that there will be some deviations from exact measurements. Some companies have more quality control, but in the case they didn't. Even high-price aftermarket items are not always "perfect"
so, you can have you send new ones, or shave a bit off so they fit correctly and more safely than using washers… washers or a gap are going to put some extra stress on the bolts which is def not a good idea...just my opinion.
so, you can have you send new ones, or shave a bit off so they fit correctly and more safely than using washers… washers or a gap are going to put some extra stress on the bolts which is def not a good idea...just my opinion.
If what I hear has any truth to it, then GT Spec doesn't make their bars and braces anyway, the bars are made by someone else and GT Spec is just rebranding them. If their manufacturing process is out sourced to another company than complaining to them probably doesn't make much sense because they can only replace the brackets with more brackets built the same way.
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+1 Lol you beat me to it.
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Since a few IS members said they also had to bend the bar a little, do you guys think if I lifted the front wheels off the ground then put the bar in place and lowered the car slowly, it would eventually line up as I lower the car? Or do I have the concept of preloading the bar a little confused?
I understand the purpose of preloading the bar but then wouldn't that mean what I'm asking will work?
What i'm wondering too is when you get an alignment done on the front end, don't they lift the car off its wheels and then adjust? If so, then I would think the bar would be best bolted tight when its raised...
What torque setting are you guys using for the nut/bolt that holds the bar to the bracket?
What torque setting are you guys using for the nut/bolt that holds the bar to the bracket?
- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
On the 2nd Gen the 3 nuts should only be torqued to 22 Ft/lbs
Here's a pic with the specs from the Service Manual:
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Awesome, what about the torque for the bolts on the actual point of contact where the bar meets the bracket? I couldn't find that on the GTSpec site or on the package
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------
Hey guys, would it be much to ask if more of you could post photos....of your bracket sitting on the strut tower?
Some of you have indicated that you do not have this problem and I would be curious to see what is different about your setups compared to mine and others that faced this issue. This would definitely support the theories we have floating around as well put this to bed once and for all. As I have a 2012 and Gee has a 2009 and we both have the same problem, i'm going to say its nothing must to do with the car itself but a variation in the brackets ooorr some haven't noticed the way the bracket is sitting.
Either case, I appreciate the feedback everyone is posting on here, this is why I love coming back to this site, you guys are so helpful.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:54 PM ----------
Hey guys, would it be much to ask if more of you could post photos....of your bracket sitting on the strut tower?
Some of you have indicated that you do not have this problem and I would be curious to see what is different about your setups compared to mine and others that faced this issue. This would definitely support the theories we have floating around as well put this to bed once and for all. As I have a 2012 and Gee has a 2009 and we both have the same problem, i'm going to say its nothing must to do with the car itself but a variation in the brackets ooorr some haven't noticed the way the bracket is sitting.
Either case, I appreciate the feedback everyone is posting on here, this is why I love coming back to this site, you guys are so helpful.
That's true. Well GTSPEC messaged me back and stated they can exchange the strut bar but what we agreed on is that they will bring in an FX35 and test fit the bar and take photos. If they see an issue, they will take it from there. At least they are taking the first steps in looking into this.
The washer solution hopefully lifts the brackets high enough, though wouldn't want to grind the bracket since its not that thick. I'm just worried its going to sit too high and hit the hood.
Sighs..products shouldn't be like this...
The washer solution hopefully lifts the brackets high enough, though wouldn't want to grind the bracket since its not that thick. I'm just worried its going to sit too high and hit the hood.
Sighs..products shouldn't be like this...
- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
The washer solution was not enough on my 09, Besides that I still had to grind some off the bracket. Just make sure you can make full thread contact with the 3 nuts.
If the bar is slightly too long, what you're proposing will work. Shock towers should spread slightly when the car is raised. Some strut bars won't install unless you raise the car up.
---------- Post added at 11:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:16 AM ----------
Not sure if it's always done this way, but my alignment was done with wheels on rack. Basically mount the sensors, measure, computer tells them alignment and adjustments needed, they then adjust and check again.
And FWIW, Stillen STB's aren't the greatest either. On my first gen, it contacts the hood liner just like GT Spec.
---------- Post added at 11:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:16 AM ----------
Not sure if it's always done this way, but my alignment was done with wheels on rack. Basically mount the sensors, measure, computer tells them alignment and adjustments needed, they then adjust and check again.
And FWIW, Stillen STB's aren't the greatest either. On my first gen, it contacts the hood liner just like GT Spec.
tomwetherald
Member
- Car
- 06 FX35 Sport AWD
The replacement Strut Bar thing sounds like a nice idea... but I am still waiting on mine for over a year and a half now... Which reminds me, time to email GTSpec again 