Oil consumption, this is going to be fun!!!

1yakini

Member
Location
norfolk va
So I suspected for a while that the urban assault vehicle was sucking oil. The last couple changes I saw that it needed oil added before the next due date, but hadnt monitored it closely. Had it changed last month, verified Nissan put a full 6.6 in it then went on about my business. A few trips to DC, one to west Va and some other hwy driving gave me enough sustained hi rpm engine speed to show without a doubt, the motor has issues. 2500 miles into the change and the oil line is below L near the bottom of the dipstick. Nissan does an oil change today and says "yea, you were about 1.5 quarts low at 2500 miles."

So now what. The tech says simply "we see very little valve seal problems, its likely the valve covers/pcv system". This makes sense, I bought the car 9 years old with 40k on it, it sat a lot apparently and may have some sludge. The service guy says they would like to do the valve covers and if that doesnt solve it.... new motor.

Works for me. But wait.....

The extended warranty company is clearly in the business of self preservation, not a benevolent organization by any means. So they say... "we will not cover the cost of the valve covers, if the customer pays to replace those and it doesnt fix it then reply back to us and we will deal with the problem then". Service advisor tells me he is going to call and get a manager. I have dealt with this advisor for years, he is a good guy and has always taken care of me, last warranty problem I had he beat up Fidelity until they covered the costs, then waived the troubleshooting fees for me. So I tell him sure and that I am going to go home and call myself.

I call, they say that the service advisor stated that the problem was pcv blockage in the valve covers and Fidelity does not cover sludge. I told them I understand why they dont cover damage from oil sludge, but this engine wasnt neglected, I have plenty of service records. I also said that NO ONE knows if it is pcv blockage and the the dealer was speculating based on past experience. They talked to their bosses and tell me to bring the car in to Nissan and they will provide a rental and send out their own inspector.

Progress... but wait.... I call Dwayne (service guy) and he says they called him twice. The first time they told him if I paid the teardown costs, they would send an inspector and if it wasnt sludge related they would cover the repairs. NOT GOOD. The second call they told him that they would cover labor and parts costs for valve cover gaskets but I had to pay for the valve cover costs myself = $480. BETTER.

I tell Dwayne before I spend 500 on speculation, they should TS the problem a little more ie compression test, pull the plugs look for bad cylinder, etc etc. He says that this makes the most sense and he wants to get ahold of Fidelity again and hammer out the details and get back to, trying to get a gameplan together.

So... I have an 03 45 with 54k on the odometer. Flawless car, except for this. I am crossing my fingers for a long block since then this 10 year old car would be... well, new. The question is, what would you guys recommend I do as far as a gameplan for this? Tackle the covers first then try to push for an engine? Pay for more TS on the internals?

Im also considering if it is the covers what damage could have been done internally all this time it was burning; the cats? the plugs? valve seals? And if they do provide a new motor, what do I add in to replace during the swap... motor mounts, belts, hoses, heater core, etc etc.

Oh and finally, no matter what the end result is... I am for sure putting a catch can on this thing once I get it working.

Thoughts?
 
I'm in same situation right now, spark plug hole is dried so not leak there, a lot of blue smoke on cold start, lost a lot of oil in short period of time, replaced pcv didn't help, installed catch can and I can see oil flow from
pcv to the plenum from the clear tube that come with catch can, (will have to get better catch can) that is where oil left engine and flow into intake manifold.
I did get code that is relate to sludge, I took out cam position sensor and notice some good amount of sludge, clean that up, still smoking , so next plan of attack will be flushing sludge out,
clean valve timing solenoid, probably sludge is blocking oil flow in the solenoid too. Its 04 with 119k. please let us know the root cause or the fix for this.
 
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I'm in same situation right now, spark plug hole is dried so not leak there, a lot of blue smoke on cold start, lost a lot of oil in short period of time, replaced pcv didn't help, installed catch can and I can see oil flow from
pcv to the plenum from the clear tube that come with catch can, (will have to get better catch can) that is where oil left engine and flow into intake manifold.
I did get code that is relate to sludge, I took out cam position sensor and notice some good amount of sludge, clean that up, still smoking , so next plan of attack will be flushing sludge out,
clean valve timing solenoid, probably sludge is blocking oil flow in the solenoid too. Its 04 with 119k. please let us know the root cause or the fix for this.

Regular Oil...

And damn.... I am getting a large shaft placed into various places that dont like shafts.... fidelity is not covering anything. Line 15 exclusion clause; any oil consumption, fouled or stuck rings, sludge, or sticking valves.

I read this contract so many times, they snuck it in there and I just caught it today. Had a long talk with fidelity and I can say they were cool, I understand their position.


SO..... assuming it is the valve covers and they are 250 a piece plus labor if I dont do them myself I am looking for alternatives. Sprtfx you mentioned that you installed a catch can, I know you have a VQ and it is different. I have to figure out if this 45 has an external PCV valve. Anybody? My thinking is that if the baffles are clogged inside the valve covers this is forcing the crankcase pressures up and causing blowback through the bottom end. Can I not just run a catch can to bypass the valve cover internals or is there no way around this? I am not sure of the order and flow of the system. My engine is showign no evidence of sludge sprtfx, I had the tech look as best he could, doesnt mean there isnt some in there but the oil always comes out fairly clean, the top end looks clean, no smoke nothing. In your case why not do an engine flush? try to get out any sludge build up that might be in there.


Any engine guys .02?
 
If I'm correct sludge will not build up with Synthetic oil you may want to switch after you get this straightened out.
 
If I'm correct sludge will not build up with Synthetic oil you may want to switch after you get this straightened out.


I understand, it shouldnt build up with regular oil if maintained correctly. Either way, I need to find out if the valve covers have to be changed
 
So I suspected for a while that the urban assault vehicle was sucking oil. The last couple changes I saw that it needed oil added before the next due date, but hadnt monitored it closely. Had it changed last month, verified Nissan put a full 6.6 in it then went on about my business. A few trips to DC, one to west Va and some other hwy driving gave me enough sustained hi rpm engine speed to show without a doubt, the motor has issues. 2500 miles into the change and the oil line is below L near the bottom of the dipstick. Nissan does an oil change today and says "yea, you were about 1.5 quarts low at 2500 miles."

So now what. The tech says simply "we see very little valve seal problems, its likely the valve covers/pcv system". This makes sense, I bought the car 9 years old with 40k on it, it sat a lot apparently and may have some sludge. The service guy says they would like to do the valve covers and if that doesnt solve it.... new motor.

Works for me. But wait.....

The extended warranty company is clearly in the business of self preservation, not a benevolent organization by any means. So they say... "we will not cover the cost of the valve covers, if the customer pays to replace those and it doesnt fix it then reply back to us and we will deal with the problem then". Service advisor tells me he is going to call and get a manager. I have dealt with this advisor for years, he is a good guy and has always taken care of me, last warranty problem I had he beat up Fidelity until they covered the costs, then waived the troubleshooting fees for me. So I tell him sure and that I am going to go home and call myself.

I call, they say that the service advisor stated that the problem was pcv blockage in the valve covers and Fidelity does not cover sludge. I told them I understand why they dont cover damage from oil sludge, but this engine wasnt neglected, I have plenty of service records. I also said that NO ONE knows if it is pcv blockage and the the dealer was speculating based on past experience. They talked to their bosses and tell me to bring the car in to Nissan and they will provide a rental and send out their own inspector.

Progress... but wait.... I call Dwayne (service guy) and he says they called him twice. The first time they told him if I paid the teardown costs, they would send an inspector and if it wasnt sludge related they would cover the repairs. NOT GOOD. The second call they told him that they would cover labor and parts costs for valve cover gaskets but I had to pay for the valve cover costs myself = $480. BETTER.

I tell Dwayne before I spend 500 on speculation, they should TS the problem a little more ie compression test, pull the plugs look for bad cylinder, etc etc. He says that this makes the most sense and he wants to get ahold of Fidelity again and hammer out the details and get back to, trying to get a gameplan together.

So... I have an 03 45 with 54k on the odometer. Flawless car, except for this. I am crossing my fingers for a long block since then this 10 year old car would be... well, new. The question is, what would you guys recommend I do as far as a gameplan for this? Tackle the covers first then try to push for an engine? Pay for more TS on the internals?

Im also considering if it is the covers what damage could have been done internally all this time it was burning; the cats? the plugs? valve seals? And if they do provide a new motor, what do I add in to replace during the swap... motor mounts, belts, hoses, heater core, etc etc.

Oh and finally, no matter what the end result is... I am for sure putting a catch can on this thing once I get it working.

Thoughts?

I would try using Sea Foam Deep Creep in the PCV ports in the valve covers first before buying new valve covers. Just removed the PCV valves from the valve covers and spray some deep creep inside the PCV holes. Let the Sea Foam sit for a about an hour or so and then reinstall the PCV valves. Maybe the Sea Form will break up the sludge in the valve covers and open up the blockage in the valve covers. And then start using synthetic oil for now on to help keep the engine sludge free.:good: P.S. you may need to change the PCV valves after using the Deep Creep due to the loose sludge that may clog the PCV valves when it gets free as well as clean your throttle body.
 
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I would try using Sea Foam Deep Creep in the PCV ports in the valve covers first before buying new valve covers. Just removed the PCV valves from the valve covers and spray some deep creep inside the PCV holes. Let the Sea Foam sit for a about an hour or so and then reinstall the PCV valves. Maybe the Sea Form will break up the sludge in the valve covers and open up the blockage in the valve covers. And then start using synthetic oil for now on to help keep the engine sludge free.:good: P.S. you may need to change the PCV valves after using the Deep Creep due to the loose sludge that may clog the PCV valves when it gets free as well as clean your throttle body.


Sounds like a good idea... good place to start. Will report back. I ran seafoam through the throttle body when I first got the car...

I was under the impression though that there were no external pcv valves on the car.. the dealer kept saying they were internal to the valve covers. I havent looked myself. There is one on each side?
 
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I would try using Sea Foam Deep Creep in the PCV ports in the valve covers first before buying new valve covers. Just removed the PCV valves from the valve covers and spray some deep creep inside the PCV holes. Let the Sea Foam sit for a about an hour or so and then reinstall the PCV valves. Maybe the Sea Form will break up the sludge in the valve covers and open up the blockage in the valve covers. And then start using synthetic oil for now on to help keep the engine sludge free.:good: P.S. you may need to change the PCV valves after using the Deep Creep due to the loose sludge that may clog the PCV valves when it gets free as well as clean your throttle body.

I don't believe there is internal PCV inside valve cover of either VK or VQ from diagram, so if any thing it would be just just spraying seafoam directly into your
rockers, don't know if that would hurt any thing there, I might remove valve cover and attempt to manually clean it if flushing don't work.

Vk got 2 PCV

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Yep, no internal PVC valve inside the valve covers. I have replaced both the VQ & VK valve covers on my 35 & 45.
 
Man thanks, I have been trying to find a service manual and coming up short. Its been a long time since I replaced valve covers but they look easy. I have read that nissan changed the design of the valve covers due to this clogging, can anyone verify? If they did, I will probably install new ones but if they are the same then I might pull them and clean them real good, along with the intake and changing the plugs.
 
Replacing the valve cover is not hard at all. I documented the steps here, https://www.infinitiscene.com/search/1/?q=12691-Handy_Andy-s-Mini-Install-Meets?p=278788#post278788
Torque the bolts back on in two steps starting with the center bolt and work your way out and across each other on each cover. Tighten down all bolts to 18 in-lb on the first round and then go back and tighten down to 73 in-lb.

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Hope these pages helps you if you decided to replace them.
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The seal in the spark plug hole leaks and oil pooled in there. I have ventured into looking at just replacing the seal in the spark plug hole and the seals were pressed in and sealed between the inner side of the cover as one piece. I believe someone on the other site manage enlarge the hole with a hole saw and replace the seals from other car. I decided not taking that route and replace the valve cover instead for a peace of mind.

---------- Post added at 09:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 AM ----------

https://www.infinitiscene.com/search/1/?q=4492-Oil-Leak-in-Spark-Plug-Compartment
https://www.infinitiscene.com/search/1/?q=2093-oil-leak-on-the-spark-plug
 
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I had oil leak into my spark plugs. Long story short, I used high temp silicone and put it on the existing seals and put the covers back on. The silicone sealed off the leak and to this date, no problems. Just have to make sure you clean all surfaces properly and let the silicone dry for a day.

If the seals were replaceable, i would go that route, but valve covers, this should be a recall. I have never seen this happen, shame on Infiniti for being cheap.

On a side note, using regular oil does cause build up inside regardless if you change the oil frequently. The build up is on the internals, walls, etc. Synthetic oil has better cleaning ingredients and that's why many of you probably noticed that synthetic oil gets dirty much sooner. This does not mean your synthetic oil is burnt or ready to be changed, that means its working and cleaning deposits as it flows through.

Be careful when switching from regular oil to synthetic at a mileage after 60K miles or 100k km. If there is a lot of carbon buildup between seals, your engine may leak. I say this because the buildup wears the seals faster and when synthetic clears the buildup, you create a bigger gap between the seal and crank shaft. Seals only flex so much but if there's enough gap even microscopic, your engine will leak and you'll need to swap seals (not fun).

Lucky for you, your engine is low mileage, so I don't see this being a problem.
 
Yeah, I read about your fix on using high temperature silicone at the time when I was deciding on fixing my oil leak into the spark plugs. Glad to hear that it works out for you. You save yourself a good $400. :smile (2):

:good: Good points on switching to synthetic on high mileage.
 
I don't believe there is internal PCV inside valve cover of either VK or VQ from diagram, so if any thing it would be just just spraying seafoam directly into your
rockers, don't know if that would hurt any thing there, I might remove valve cover and attempt to manually clean it if flushing don't work.

Vk got 2 PCV

em-194.jpg

I suggested using Sea Foam Deep Creep in the PCV ports because the dealership says the rocker covers have a blockage due to sludge build up, so I am guessing that the rocker covers has a channel that funnels the oil blow-by and gas to the PCV valve that gets clogged underneath. Why would the dealership recommend new rockers covers due to sludge buildup?
 

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Yeah, I read about your fix on using high temperature silicone at the time when I was deciding on fixing my oil leak into the spark plugs. Glad to hear that it works out for you. You save yourself a good $400. :smile (2):

:good: Good points on switching to synthetic on high mileage.

Thanks man, just giving back to the community :smug:

---------- Post added at 02:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:40 PM ----------

I suggested using Sea Foam Deep Creep in the PCV ports because the dealership says the rocker covers have a blockage due to sludge build up, so I am guessing that the rocker covers has a channel that funnels the oil blow-by and gas to the PCV valve that gets clogged underneath. Why would the dealership recommend new rockers covers due to sludge buildup?

I'm not sure there's channels in the cover itself, when I took mine off, there's nothing more than just seals and the cover. The two PCV valves are detachable on the V8 or one on the V6 model. They unscrew from the valve cover itself.

When I took my valve covers off I never seen any sludge but I use synthetic so it cleans everything including the PCV valve. That's the one of many amazing benefits of using synthetic. It works for you and saves you down the line.

Why would they recommend replacing the covers? Because its a sure way for the covers to be excluded as the culprit. Also dealerships don't like to get into small jobs like cleaning covers. They like to do a quick, clean job that gives them a big profit. Not only that but if they were to clean the covers, put new seals and you still had an issue, they would have to redo everything only this time using new covers. But you could argue with them that they should have known better to put new covers on and they would have to cover the initial costs plus make you happy of wasting your time.

Also its a bit of a labor intensive task, if it was something small like washing the PCV valve (which they would not do but replace), if that didn't do the trick, it would just take 5 minutes to replace.

In my experience dealing with mechanics at any dealership, rarely do I ever come across someone that knows the car the way we do in these forums. There's times I ask them about something and they simply have no clue or start telling you stories and I end up finding the answer here. Smaller dedicated shops know way more because its their business to know and they tell you how it is and are willing to go the extra step. But for the most part, techs at dealerships don't make crazy money, usually are students/apprenticeship, guys that took school because they like cars but don't have a passion for them.
[h=3][/h]Sorry for the rant, but I think this is something you guys need to know straight up and probably already do.

I totally think your engine is fine, just needs a good "safe" cleaning, synthetic oil and you're golden.

The one thing I never could settle with was using seafoam. I've read great things about it, but what are the after effects later on? How safe is seafoam on oxygen sensors and catalytic converters? If it removes deposits it must have an intense detergent, but at the same time, detergents cause "dry" friction between mechanical parts which cause scoring. That's just my take on it from years of experience dealing with cars, etc.

There's always two sides of the story, and usually its one side making money and the other side getting a benefit with a bigger loss somewhere else or later on.
 
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