How to change Left side engine/motor mount

Dracula

Premium Member
Premium
Location
Hollywood, CA
Car
2004 FX35 RWD
Name
Andy
Apparently you need to take off the headers and etc. I didnt! i just took couple things off, details below. Also listed what tools you would need in each step to make things easier. Unfortunately i didnt take full pictures of this DIY, if anyone could post pictures for the areas i worked on would be perfect.

Proceed at your own risk....

PERFORM THIS DIY ENGINE COLD


Duration: 20-60mins
Tools
Engine mount assembly:
1/2 ratchet
17mm 1/2 6 point socket
14mm 1/2 6 point deep wobble socket
1/2 extension 12-24''
14mm wrench 4-6'' long after you have loosened the nut with the wobble socket you need to use this to take the nut off till you can take off with your fingers
1 Jack with woodblock
Heat shield:
3/8 ratchet
10mm 6 point wobble socket
3/8 extension 6-12'' (optional)
Engine Top cover:
3/8 ratchet
10mm 6 point deep socket
Intake removal:
3/8 ratchet
10mm deep socket
8mm deep socket for throttle body to intake tube ring clamp
Pliers
Wheel removal:
1/2 breaker bar
21mm 6 point short or deep socket
Floor Jack, 2 jacks optional
1 Jack Stand
Bottom Engine cover:
3/8 ratchet
3/8 4'' extension to make life easier
10mm socket




1. Remove left front wheel.
2. Put a jack stand and take the jack off
3. Remove bottom engine cover bolts with 10mm socket, optional use extension

4. Now go up and remove top engine cover with 10mm deep socket
5. Remove intake bolts x2 using 10mm socket
6. Remove maf sensor line
7. Loosen ring (1)clamp with 8mm deep socket. Note: this is where your intake tube is connected to the throttle body
8. Remove vacuum line with pliers
9. REMOVE your intake assembly

10. Take off heat shield use a 3/8 ratchet 6point 12mm socket 4 bolts, optional to use an extension
11. Remove 14mm nut on top engine mount, use 1/2 ratchet with 14mm 6 point deep wobble socket + 12-24'' extension. Note: Use 6 point socket only!
12. Once you loosened the nut use a short 4-6'' 14mm wrench to loosen the nut until you can use your fingers to take it off
13. Now remove the bottom engine mount nut 17mm use 1/2 ratchet for this

14. Now jack up the left side engine area, i used around the power steering pump strong area with 2 woodblocks on my jack, i didnt use my oil pan. This is clearly your decision, be smart and find a strong area to jack it up.
15. Jack it up enough till the top bolt is free from the top engine mount area. If you cant fit the new mount, loosen the bottom 17mm nut on the right side engine mount for more room
16. Replace it with the new one, note: dont forget the black bracket on top of the mount bushing, position it and stick it up in the exisiting spot
17. Install the top 14mm nut first
18. Install the 17mm nut and your done!
19. Now installation is backwards and easy.

old engine mount
2ymg7sm.jpg
[/IMG]

Broken mount :(

2n82e0w.jpg
[/IMG]


This is the heat shield x4 10mm bolts, use a 3/8 ratchet with a 6 point wobble 10mm socket + 6-8'' extension to get to those 4 bolts.
2wm2g6q.jpg
[/IMG]
11w3jad.jpg
[/IMG]
2wqqxs8.jpg
[/IMG]
32znnkn.jpg
[/IMG]



The right tool for the job, this is for the top engine mount 14mm nut
2cd7903.jpg
[/IMG]

11ij2fc.jpg
[/IMG]
1fbsj6.jpg
[/IMG]


ofoifb.jpg
[/IMG]


2v9dsfk.jpg
[/IMG]

vpxj0o.jpg
[/IMG]

2nh2o9j.jpg
[/IMG]

1z160wl.jpg
you can see the bottom of the motor mount in this picture, remove the 17mm nut [/IMG]

:good::smile (2)::rotfl::smug::tongue::iS:
 
Last edited:
Nice!
What made you think you needed to change your engine mount?

felt more vibrations in cabin, from a stop light when you accelerate you would feel something moving in your engine bay, as it got worse you would hear a clunk on hard shifts. Coming to stop light if you use manual mode and shift aggressively the front end shakes. Best way to inspect the condition of the motor mount is gas and brake same time while in drive and then reverse, see if the engine jumps up, then go down look through the wheels and see if the engine mount is seperated while someone gives a little gas and brake at the same time.
 
felt more vibrations in cabin, from a stop light when you accelerate you would feel something moving in your engine bay, as it got worse you would hear a clunk on hard shifts. Coming to stop light if you use manual mode and shift aggressively the front end shakes. Best way to inspect the condition of the motor mount is gas and brake same time while in drive and then reverse, see if the engine jumps up, then go down look through the wheels and see if the engine mount is seperated while someone gives a little gas and brake at the same time.

Looking through the wheels, where would you find the engine mount?

Sent from my SGH-T999 2
 
Apparently you need to take off the headers and etc. I didnt! i just took couple things off, details below. Also listed what tools you would need in each step to make things easier. Unfortunately i didnt take full pictures of this DIY, if anyone could post pictures for the areas i worked on would be perfect.

Proceed at your own risk....

PERFORM THIS DIY ENGINE COLD


Duration: 20-60mins
Tools
Engine mount assembly:
1/2 ratchet
17mm 1/2 6 point socket
14mm 1/2 6 point deep wobble socket
1/2 extension 12-24''
14mm wrench 4-6'' long after you have loosened the nut with the wobble socket you need to use this to take the nut off till you can take off with your fingers
1 Jack with woodblock
Heat shield:
3/8 ratchet
10mm 6 point wobble socket
3/8 extension 6-12''
Engine Top cover:
3/8 ratchet
10mm 6 point deep socket
Intake removal:
3/8 ratchet
10-12mm deep socket
Pliers
Wheel removal:
1/2 breaker bar
21mm 6 point short or deep socket
Floor Jack, 2 jacks optional
1 Jack Stand
Bottom Engine cover:
3/8 ratchet
3/8 4'' extension to make life easier
10mm socket




1. Remove left front wheel.
2. Put a jack stand and take the jack off
3. Remove bottom engine cover bolts with 10mm socket, optional use extension

4. Now go up and remove top engine cover with 10mm deep socket
5. Remove intake bolts x2 10 or 12mm cant remember
6. Remove maf sensor line
7. Loosen clamps with 10mm deep socket
8. Remove vaccum line with pliers
9. REMOVE your intake assembly

10. Take off heat shield use a 3/8 ratchet with a 12 inch 6point 12mm socket 4 bolts
11. Remove 14mm nut on top engine mount, use 1/2 ratchet with 14mm 6 point deep wobble socket + 12-24'' extension. Note: Use 6 point socket only!
12. Once you loosened the nut use a short 4-6'' 14mm wrench to loosen the nut until you can use your fingers to take it off
13. Now remove the bottom engine mount nut 17mm use 1/2 ratchet for this

14. Now jack up the left side engine area, i used around the power steering pump strong area with 2 woodblocks on my jack, i didnt use my oil pan. This is clearly your decision, be smart and find a strong area to jack it up.
15. Jack it up enough till the top bolt is free from the top engine mount area. If you cant fit the new mount, loosen the bottom 17mm nut on the right side engine mount for more room
16. Replace it with the new one, note: dont forget the black bracket on top of the mount bushing, position it and stick it up in the exisiting spot
17. Install the top 14mm nut first
18. Install the 17mm nut and your done!
19. Now installation is backwards and easy.

old engine mount
2ymg7sm.jpg
[/IMG]

Broken mount :(

2n82e0w.jpg
[/IMG]


This is the heat shield x4 10mm bolts, use a 3/8 ratchet with a 6 point wobble 10mm socket + 6-8'' extension to get to those 4 bolts.
32znnkn.jpg
[/IMG]



The right tool for the job, this is for the top engine mount 14mm nut
2cd7903.jpg
[/IMG]

11ij2fc.jpg
[/IMG]
1fbsj6.jpg
[/IMG]


ofoifb.jpg
[/IMG]


2v9dsfk.jpg
[/IMG]

vpxj0o.jpg
[/IMG]

2nh2o9j.jpg
[/IMG]


:smile (2)::rotfl::smug::tongue::iS:

Great walk-through! I will using this soon!! :good:
 
Looking through the wheels, where would you find the engine mount?

Sent from my SGH-T999 2

1z160wl.jpg
note:using this pic from another members DIY, you can see from the left side wheel

---------- Post added at 10:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 PM ----------

Very nice. I need to do this as well.

Where did you get the mount?

thanks, i got it from a local nissan/infiniti wreck yard, f0r $50 great condition
 
Awesome DIY, but I'm not having the same success. I don't quite have the right combination of wobbles. I'm taking a break before I throw a hammer thru the windshield..........
 
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