Amp oem subs or add tang band subs and amp? Who has mods?

F

fastline

Member
Location
midwest
I am looking to do something with the wife's FX. I have the sub box tore down now. I was just getting ready to order Tang Band subs to fit in the OEM sub box but got to wondering if they would really be much of an improvement over just amping the factory subs? They seem to be decent quality but I have no idea how many watts this thing puts out.

The factory speakers are also 1ohm so that might be a challenge to amp them. I was also throwing around factory amp mods but that might be a waste of time.
 
fastline said:
I am looking to do something with the wife's FX. I have the sub box tore down now. I was just getting ready to order Tang Band subs to fit in the OEM sub box but got to wondering if they would really be much of an improvement over just amping the factory subs? They seem to be decent quality but I have no idea how many watts this thing puts out.

The factory speakers are also 1ohm so that might be a challenge to amp them. I was also throwing around factory amp mods but that might be a waste of time.
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I replaced the factory amp with a JL 200w mono and it made a big difference. Probably doubled the measurable output and improved the sound quality significantly. I'd start there. The problem with swapping the drivers first is that you'll still be powering them with the pitiful factory amp. Also, the oem woofers are 1 ohm each and anything you replace them with will likely be of a higher impedance, which will result in a lower overall volume.
 
Sorry if I mislead but yes, if I replaced the woofers, I certainly would be upgrading the amp due to both not taking advantage of the higher wattage speaker, and have impedance match problems.

I would be real curious to hear the difference in swapped OEM speakers with an amp vs your system. I was going to replace with the 5.25" tang band sub which is a near drop in but I am still left wondering if that is worth the expense on the wife's car. She was actually fine with it, it is me that cannot leave anything alone...

I am just sitting here, looking at this OEM sub amp, trying to decide if I can hack it and get more balls from it. The thing is so stupid simple, it may not take much but probably operating on a ridiculously low output rail voltage.
 
fastline said:
Sorry if I mislead but yes, if I replaced the woofers, I certainly would be upgrading the amp due to both not taking advantage of the higher wattage speaker, and have impedance match problems.

I would be real curious to hear the difference in swapped OEM speakers with an amp vs your system. I was going to replace with the 5.25" tang band sub which is a near drop in but I am still left wondering if that is worth the expense on the wife's car. She was actually fine with it, it is me that cannot leave anything alone...

I am just sitting here, looking at this OEM sub amp, trying to decide if I can hack it and get more balls from it. The thing is so stupid simple, it may not take much but probably operating on a ridiculously low output rail voltage.
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If you're planning to do both, just do the amp first and see how you like it.

Probably a low rail voltage, but also tiny cheap components, minimal capacitance, 18ga power feed, $2 integral crossover, etc... The bottom line is that its a pos. The woofers and enclosure are at least decent. The amp is a victim of size constraints.

SfmDRuT2
 
I did have an idea to look at the amps for bridging. If I could bridge a factory amp, there is a place to put another in there. The caps are only rated for 16V but I am not sure what is required yet. I guess I could hook it up to the scope and see if it is bridgeable. Doubt it but maybe if they use this configuration for other, single sub vehicles. I do now notice it is a two ch amp, not mono.

The other concern then becomes impedance. Usually when you bridge an amp, its impedance handling halves. If this thing is already border line, it might not handle the 1ohm load. However, seeing as how these amps are worthless, it might be worth a shot for the hell of it.... I do notice the neg on only one channel goes to chassis ground. I found that odd.
 
fastline said:
I did have an idea to look at the amps for bridging. If I could bridge a factory amp, there is a place to put another in there. The caps are only rated for 16V but I am not sure what is required yet. I guess I could hook it up to the scope and see if it is bridgeable. Doubt it but maybe if they use this configuration for other, single sub vehicles. I do now notice it is a two ch amp, not mono.

The other concern then becomes impedance. Usually when you bridge an amp, its impedance handling halves. If this thing is already border line, it might not handle the 1ohm load. However, seeing as how these amps are worthless, it might be worth a shot for the hell of it.... I do notice the neg on only one channel goes to chassis ground. I found that odd.
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They're extremely low quality, but they're not worthless. I actually sold mine for the same $ that its replacement cost on the used market...

SfmDRuT2
 
Well, I happen to have a Precision Power PCX1250 collecting dust here. I was going to try and find something MUCH smaller but I guess I have always been one to over power speakers anyway. What, you don't think those 6" speakers will handle 250watts RMS? LOL I should be able to calm it down and lets these little thumpers take all the power they want...

Now, just to find a place to put this amp... Not like it is going to get hot or anything. Certainly going to have to run wiring for it.

Another question though, it is my understanding the switching remote power from the head unit is only like 5V, is that right? Do you know the voltage? I was considering just using a mosfet to turn it on. I guess I could use a mechanical relay too..
 
I wouldn't put 250 watts to two tang band 6.5's. You can put the amp on the back of the seat if you don't mind it being there. From what i've read, some said the oem remote wire is 6 volts, others say its 12 volts. I persoanlly bought a Audio Control LC2i and ran a remote wire out of that. You don't need to run a remote wire in to the lc2i but you can run a remote wire out of it. Modifying a amp for more power is more than just changing caps, you would need a new board. Better off running a aftermarket amp and leave that alone in case you ever decide to put it back in
 
Well I did determine that the remote line is 12V so that will help simplify this deal. I gave the system a listen as stock and really think if I do too much with the bass section, I would have to mod everything. It is a little lacking on bass but really, the whole thing sucks. Speakers are turds and front corner tweets are crackling. I knew one was but now both are. Not blown though, there was something on the coils that was coming apart. I would try to fix but I remember someone recommending a replacement that sounded much better anyway. Maybe those will help fill everything better.

---------- Post Merged at 04:59 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 03:21 PM ----------

CRAP.....Now I am getting the upgrade bug....I knew I should have left it alone... I determined with the factory sub module that I can indeed fit a shallow 10-12" sub in there. It shall be so now. I just cannot put that much grunt for an amp in there and not let it exercise. Wife will probably be pissed but not for long....Once she stumbles on a song she likes and learns why I do what I do..
 
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