Crack on the kinetix v+ plenum can be fixed?
- Thread starter rwong903
- Start date
sukhi105
Member
- Location
- queens, new york
- Car
- 2004 Infiniti fx35
Wow your cars crying for help. Make sure u got on everything tight and double check. if u have a check engine light u missed something. I forgot one senser behind the plenum and caused the light. Make sure u connected those hoses behind the plenum on the driver side with the L shaped metal connector and make sure u have all the hoses on correctly.
Best advice so far :good: if there is a vacuum leak in the area, this should find it.
- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
- Car
- 05 FX35 RWD
WTF!? LMAO!!! hahahaha. The balloon just refuses to deflate
& My dog just left the room.
If you need a replacement & cannot repair, look for a Crawford V5
& My dog just left the room.
If you need a replacement & cannot repair, look for a Crawford V5
I would double check all of the hose connections to the plenum and make sure all the gaskets are seated right as well, but sounds more like a loose/faulty hose connection or even pinched.
Haha, this is the first thing that came to my mind. I would check you engine bay for anything like this hiding out in it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onHUf3CnOzc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onHUf3CnOzc
PDXSchrammie
Member
- Location
- Portland, OR
- Car
- 2006 FX35 AWD
haha...:rotfl:
---------- Post Merged at 01:33 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 01:31 PM ----------
haha...:rotfl:
Hahaha... Ur funny bro!!!
---------- Post Merged at 02:07 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 01:52 AM ----------
Thanks for all the possible solutions pros!!! I think I've solved the problem. The leakage is from the plenum. When I first got it, there was some wooden material around the edge of the plenum. And the guy who sold me the plenum told me that I just have to install it and let it sit for a while. When I drive around, the plenum will be heated up a little bit and sealed with the manifold. Obviously, what he said is not quite correct. I took off the plenum yesterday and scraped off all the wooden like material around the edge of the plenum. I then used the blue gasket sealer to reinstall it again, and sat it for a day. When I drive it today, the noice is gone, and now I'm so happy with it. Also, I can feel the little gain that I didn't before. So, I'd conclude that the left over material gives an uneven surface to connect the plenum and the manifold. Anyway, thanks for all the valuable advices!!! Thanks!!!
Edit: Font color and size
Glad you got it figured out. You should reset the ECU as well, after any intake or exhaust mods.
For the record, that brand of silicone makes multiple colors... You can get black and it looks almost factory.
P.S. That black font was hard to read!
For the record, that brand of silicone makes multiple colors... You can get black and it looks almost factory.
P.S. That black font was hard to read!
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- Location
- Portland, OR
FYI, that "wooden material" is a cork gasket. It comes with that plenum and is the correct part for that location, it was probably just damaged somewhere. The gasket sealer will totally work though. The only downsides are having to reapply it every time you remove the plenum and the possibility of sucking a chunk of it into the motor. The latter can be easily prevented by using the product sparingly.
SfmDRuT2
SfmDRuT2
Sorry about the black font, but I don't know why it comes with black. Anyway, can you tell me how to reset the ECU? Also, do you mind to tell me what is the ECU and what it is for? I see this all the time. Sometimes I think I kinda know it, but sometimes not really. Is it kinda like programming the computer? Please let me know, I wanna learn more.
btw, for the gasket sealer, isn't different color for different application, like the blue one for the air pipe and the black one for some kinda liquid pipe? I really don't know about that.---------- Post Merged at 03:54 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 03:50 PM ----------
Yea tchuck, the cork gasket is damaged when I got it. That's why I need to scrap the rest off in order to have an even edge of the plenum to put the sealer on.
---------- Post Merged at 03:57 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 03:50 PM ----------
Haha... What I said the wooden material is actually the cork gasket clarified by tchuck. Sorry about any confusion.
- Location
- Toronto, Canada
- Car
- 2008 fx35 AWD
you could buy a oem gasket next time u take it off
ECU or Electronic/Engine Control Unit is the car's computer. It controls everything, including ignition timing and fuel injectors by using the different sensors on the car to make adjustments. Your ECU is located behind the glove box.
The intake tract uses a MAF Mass Air Flow sensor so the ECU knows how much air is coming in. The exhaust system uses an O2 sensor, to know how much of the air (oxygen) has been burned. I'm simplifying a little bit here, but based on these sensor readings along with temperature, the amount of fuel and timing of the ignition spark are adjusted by the computer. The ECU has some ability to "learn" based on the normal range of sensor readings. These are slightly different for every car and when you change either the intake or exhaust, the previously "learned" settings are not exactly right for the new setup.
The easy way to reset the ECU is to disconnect the battery overnight. If you lose all your radio preset stations, the ECU has been reset. The other way is to do the "pedal dance". There are several well documented DIY and how-to write ups. Just do a quick search here for resetting the ECU using, "pedal dance".
There is software out there called Uprev Osiris ($600) that has the ability to hook into your car's computer and make changes to the software. This is sometimes called reflashing the ECU. Doing that takes experience and ideally a dynomometer to dial in the new ECU settings. You would be working with a shop or tuner to do this kind of mod.
Tuning or reflashing the ECU is the only way to take full advantage of your bolt-on mods. The parts by themselves are only half the story.
The intake tract uses a MAF Mass Air Flow sensor so the ECU knows how much air is coming in. The exhaust system uses an O2 sensor, to know how much of the air (oxygen) has been burned. I'm simplifying a little bit here, but based on these sensor readings along with temperature, the amount of fuel and timing of the ignition spark are adjusted by the computer. The ECU has some ability to "learn" based on the normal range of sensor readings. These are slightly different for every car and when you change either the intake or exhaust, the previously "learned" settings are not exactly right for the new setup.
The easy way to reset the ECU is to disconnect the battery overnight. If you lose all your radio preset stations, the ECU has been reset. The other way is to do the "pedal dance". There are several well documented DIY and how-to write ups. Just do a quick search here for resetting the ECU using, "pedal dance".
There is software out there called Uprev Osiris ($600) that has the ability to hook into your car's computer and make changes to the software. This is sometimes called reflashing the ECU. Doing that takes experience and ideally a dynomometer to dial in the new ECU settings. You would be working with a shop or tuner to do this kind of mod.
Tuning or reflashing the ECU is the only way to take full advantage of your bolt-on mods. The parts by themselves are only half the story.
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Hmm, I have seen and installed a Kinetix before. The "wooden like materials" is a layer of composite material that "act" as the gasket. Perhaps over time, this layer dry and harden and caused the leak. Or it could be that the bolts got lose and just need to re-torqued or they were not properly torqued at the time of install.