Wiring aftermarket sub and amp with Re-Q Volume Sensing Bass Restorer

Renhalt said:
Sorry this is the DIY I was referring to, I don't know why I thought it was you. I didn't do the rca splicing thing in the write up i bought an adapter from the shop. And I don't know why mine did not sound right tapping into the sub harness but it damn sure sounds 50 times better tapped in the rear door.

https://www.infinitiscene.com/search/1/?q=2811-DIY-Install-New-Amp-amp-Sub
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An adapter? Did you buy a LOC? A line output converter? That is for a high level to low.level converter. Not to be used on our systems. That would cause your disappearing bass you are talking about. Our system (white/black) are LOW level not high level.... This explains what could be happening on your system.

Sent .
 
No I bought the adapter after the problem to go from the hard wire from the door speakers to the rca jacks on the amp. The first attempt tapping into the stock sub was after the amp and was a High out put and was hardwired like in the DIY writeup. All three installers at the stereo shops looked my work over and all agreed that it was indeed right but the signal to the stock sub wasn't a full range signal as the bose system was not designed to do this.

Oh yeah, wasn't disappearing bass, it sounded alright when on a low volume but from 1/4-1/2 volume it just vibrated without any clarity. In other words it sounded like shit and didn't hit the way it should. IT DOES NOW!
 
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Renhalt said:
...The first attempt tapping into the stock sub was AFTER THE AMP and was a High output and was hardwired like in the DIY writeup.

...
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The part I capitalized was your problem. The OEM Bose sub amp was applying the OEM low pass filter to your way more capable sub. Tapping that signal before that amp (when its low level) would have bypassed the OEM filter and prevented this issue.
 
Now I'm really confused, From what I gathered we want a high level input opposed to low level. What you are saying makes total since and would explain the problem I had, it really doesn't matter now but where and how would you have acquired the correct signal?
 
This is something I made a while ago to show how to install an epicenter. Same exact thing to install an amplifier except you don't cut into the wires after the stock headunit. Only tap into the wires after the labeled bose amplifier and before the labeled bose subwoofer. This will get you your correct low level inputs.


Colors are correct:
EpicenterDiagram.jpg
 
Alright, here is my evaluation of the two connections. Please excuse the sound. It's phone video. But look at the movement of the sub and you'll see which connection hit harder.
Tap Speaker :thumpdown.:
[video=youtube;-R0aqwENAMY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-R0aqwENAMY&feature=channel&list=UL[/video]

Tap Sub :top:
[video=youtube;43-wgIBXSoo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43-wgIBXSoo&feature=channel&list=UL[/video]
 
What is that under your amp? Is that the stock sub you are tapping into? Because i completely eliminated it and only tapped the harness that the sub plugs into like the above write up.
 
That just a piece of round board that I attach the amp too so that it fit into the spare tire. i tap into the oem sub wire like the DYI above. OEM sub completely eliminated from setup.
 
God job Andy on the video. You can see and hear the difference even from a phone recording.

I've installed 2 systems for members, and both times they hit really good tapping before the sub, and eliminating the stock sub.

Sent .
 
thanks everyone for the great information on here. i was about to wire my system to the door speaker this weekend, but after that video, its all i needed for proof that the sub signal is better to tap into! just had a few questions. i know there are two amps in the system, one after the head unit that everything goes through, then ANOTHER amp inside the bose sub box. everyone says tap into the harness before the bose sub spare tire box. i got that. i have the pac4 to boost up the remote signal.....should i use the constant 12vdc in the sub harness to power that unit? so these are going to be low level inputs to my amp. actually, i have a mono channel amp, so i only need to plug one RCA into the amp right? since there is only one positive and one negative on the harness, it makes sense. here is my last question.......why not tap into the sub signal before the first amp, between the Head Unit and the bigger bose amp? why tap into it after the main bose amp? does the main bose amp do something that we need to the signal? thanks for all the help!
 
Guys I need the question above answered.

Why are you guys tapping into the signal after that initial Bose amplifier?

In my mind it makes more sense to tie into the unprocessed signal from the HU, are those signals still Low Level or are they high level?

I am trying to avoid the Bose EQ which I assume is applied within that first amplifier.

Where is the amplifier in our cars?
 
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meme405 said:
Guys I need the question above answered.

Why are you guys tapping into the signal after that initial Bose amplifier?

In my mind it makes more sense to tie into the unprocessed signal from the HU, are those signals still Low Level or are they high level?

I am trying to avoid the Bose EQ which I assume is applied within that first amplifier.

Where is the amplifier in our cars?
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- The BOSE sub amp is located IN the round sub box itself. It is only about 3" x 5".

- We are tapping into the signal after the initial BOSE amp because it a Low Level pass through signal. It is an unprocessed signal from the original BOSE amp. There is no BOSE processing on this signal (small white and small black before sub)

- You CAN tap directly into the wires after the HU as they are a Low Level signal. Since most people like their amps in the trunk, it is more convenient to tap the Low Level inputs after the initial amp and before the sub amp in the trunk. The correct unprocessed wires are here and you will receive a flat signal unprocessed.. There really is no reason to run an RCA wire from behind the HU all the way to the trunk or under some seats. Just use the small white and small black before the sub.
 
toy4x said:
- You CAN tap directly into the wires after the HU as they are a Low Level signal. Since most people like their amps in the trunk, it is more convenient to tap the Low Level inputs after the initial amp and before the sub amp in the trunk. The correct unprocessed wires are here and you will receive a flat signal unprocessed.. There really is no reason to run an RCA wire from behind the HU all the way to the trunk or under some seats. Just use the small white and small black before the sub.
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Thank you. Just wanted to ensure that the wires coming back to the sub were completely unprocessed, I was under the assumption that the initial amp provided that stupid Bose EQ, I was obviously wrong.

Sweet. Sub should be easy as heck to get up and running then.
 
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