Wiring aftermarket sub and amp with Re-Q Volume Sensing Bass Restorer

A

air_mikey

Member
Location
Canada
so I got sick of my factory sub always cutting in and out so I finally decided to replace it. I bought a sub, amp and a Re-Q. I am supposed to tap into the existing speakers for the Re-Q and then run RCA's into my amp. Instead of tapping into the existing speakers, can I use the existing wires for the factory sub. Does anyone know which wires I would use to connect to my Re-Q?
 
Would I need the + & - line-out from re-Q to sub if I am going to run RCA's from re-Q to amp and then amp to sub? I want to eliminate the factory subs.
 
You still have to create a + and - lead going into your re-Q.

To run this correctly, you're going to have to tap into/ cut the factory wires. The small white wire is your positive, the small black wire is your negative.

First you have to cut the heads off a pair of rca's. Only cut on one end. Make a slice down the insulator protecting the wires, be careful and not cut too deep. The inside copper wire is your positive, the outside aluminum jacket is your negative. Twist the outside aluminum together and either solder, or crimp a connector onto it. Then do the same with the copper wire. Their should be 2 copper wires, just twist these together and add the connector/solder. Then either tap or cut the stock white/black wires and connect them accordingly. You now have correct RCA's. Tap into the pink remote for your re-Q to turn on with the stereo. Then run another set of RCA's to the sub amp.

Done... HA link responded how to create and do all of this.
 
I'm not seeing RCA inputs on the Re-Q.

Here's a link to the Re-Q installation diagram. The colors are as toy4x stated above. I don't see why you can't just wire them directly without the RCA splice...
 
"Tap into the factory speaker wires. Be sure to connect to the wiring at a point in the line that is
receiving the signal AFTER amplification from an external amplifier or the amplifier built into the
head unit. This is best achieved by connecting to the wires that are going directly to the speakers.
Tap into the left channel using the White wires and the right channel using the Grey wires, making
certain the ones with black stripes are tapped into the negative speaker wire."

Looking at the install desription, your going to have to open up the stock bose subwoofer and tap the orange wires there. The stock white and black wires are actually low level inputs....these will not work with the r-eq. It is asking for high level inputs from the subwoofer after the BOSE amp already did its work on it.

With all honestly, I would absolutely not install the r-eq! The stock HU has the low mid and high level increases built in to it. Just do as I instructed above with cutting the heads off the RCA's. and just installing the amp to an aftermarket sub....no need to install the r-eq. The stock HU sounds does exactly what this is going to do anyways....
 
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No,no,no! You only need to tap into the pink wire on the sub harness and run the pos/neg speaker leads from the right rear door speaker. If you tap into the sub wire harness it will not sound right, I know from experience and for those of you that have done it this way your sub is not working to it's potential. It will flatten out at 1/4-1/2 volume and as far as the RCA jacks, go to any stereo shop and they will sell you an adapter for 10-20 bucks depending whether or not you want input gain controls or not. I hope this helps, good luck!
 
Renhalt said:
No,no,no! You only need to tap into the pink wire on the sub harness and run the pos/neg speaker leads from the right rear door speaker. If you tap into the sub wire harness it will not sound right, I know from experience and for those of you that have done it this way your sub is not working to it's potential. It will flatten out at 1/4-1/2 volume and as far as the RCA jacks, go to any stereo shop and they will sell you an adapter for 10-20 bucks depending whether or not you want input gain controls or not. I hope this helps, good luck!
Click to expand...

Renhalt, you are wrong. Tapping a right door speaker in our case has two flaws. First, it is obviously only half of the stereo signal. Granted *most* deep bass is distributed equally side to side, but not all. Second, that door speaker signal has already equalized for that little door speaker, which is hardly full range.

In our stock (Bose) system the eq'ing is done in the amplifiers, so THE ONLY way to get a truly full range signal to the rear is to tap the sub woofer signal before the amp. The Re-Q will apparently not do this, but most other adapters will.
 
I'm sorry, and no disrespect but I disagree with you. The signal to the sub is not the same as the other speakers, as you know Bose is notorious for their microprocessors. I spent a lot of time talking to some very experienced stereo installers that are very familiar with Bose and they all said that I would not get a full range signal from the sub harness either before or after the amp. That is why my sub would flatten out, after taking their advise and tapping the door speaker all is good! Before it was flat at about 1/4-1/2 volume, now It hits like a freaking jackhammer with zero distortion and is 100% crystal clear.

Oh yeah, as far as left and or right it doesn't matter with a sub as you only need a full range high output signal. Remember we are only dealing with one speaker and only bass, so left right center it doesn't matter unless of course you tap into the stock sub, which again, is not a full range signal as the Bose system has processed from the head unit, as you ask for more power for the after ,market sub, the Bose will not allow it because it is being processed for the stock sub. I hope this makes since.
 
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Renhalt said:
I'm sorry, and no disrespect but I disagree with you. The signal to the sub is not the same as the other speakers, as you know Bose is notorious for their microprocessors. I spent a lot of time talking to some very experienced stereo installers that are very familiar with Bose and they all said that I would not get a full range signal from the sub harness either before or after the amp. That is why my sub would flatten out, after taking their advise and tapping the door speaker all is good! Before it was flat at about 1/4-1/2 volume, now It hits like a freaking jackhammer with zero distortion and is 100% crystal clear.

Oh yeah, as far as left and or right it doesn't matter with a sub as you only need a full range high output signal. Remember we are only dealing with one speaker and only bass, so left right center it doesn't matter unless of course you tap into the stock sub, which again, is not a full range signal as the Bose system has processed from the head unit, as you ask for more power for the after ,market sub, the Bose will not allow it because it is being processed for the stock sub. I hope this makes since.
Click to expand...

It makes sense, its just wrong. The crossovers are in the amps. Tapping the door speaker signal is tapping a processed signal. If you tapped the door speaker before the amp, you'd get a full range signal but only one side. Again, 80% of the time that won't matter, but sometimes it does.

If you have the factory service manual, take a look at the sound system schematic. You will find three (low level) outputs from the head unit; a left, right, and sub. These are full range signals (the sub out is a summed version of the L+R) sent directly to the two amps. One amp splits (via crossover) the mids and highs into all the main speakers and the other is the sub amp, which is essentially an amp with a built in low pass filter.

I'll post the schematic when I get home tonight so you can see for yourself.
 
Renhalt said:
I'm sorry, and no disrespect but I disagree with you. ...
Click to expand...

Also, I sense no disrespect and definitely don't mean any either. This is how people learn. ;)

Not gonna lie, you have me second guessing myself a little now. Its been a while since I looked through the FX schematic, and I've been doing some audio work for some friends lately - sure hope I am remembering the right one! :p
 
I followed your diy writeup step by step and experienced the above mentioned flattening out, at first I thought I did something wrong or had my amp adjusted wrong or something. I went to 3 different top of the line custom stereo shops and talked to the installers and they all three said the same thing, I went home and tapped the door speaker and problem solved.

And maybe the schematics say one thing, but my ears say another. Tap the door speaker, yours will too!
 
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I don't have a DIY writeup for this, my sub does not flatten out at any volume level, and I don't have any explanation for why yours did...
 
OK guys, tomorrow, I will tap into the door speaker a try to hear it myself. My sub is currently tap into the oem sub wires. I'll let you all know :wink (2):
 
Can I agree with both of you?

First the "correct way" to do this is to tap the low level(white,black) signals. These signals have a flat response and zero eqing from the Bose system. You then set your volume to 3/4, set your treble and bass controls to what you like, and then play a track containing a -4@50Hz signal on a.continuous loop( safe for bass tracks, I use -2@60Hz in my other car). After doing this, then you set the gain of the amps to equal your voltage using a dmm.

Volts= srt(power x resistance)

Example- If you have a 100 watt amp @ 4 ohm. (Real specs not the hyped up specs...birthsheets work great for this)
Volts= sqrt( 100x4 )
V=sqrt(400)
V=20

So, playing your continuous loop track, set the dmm by placing it in the amps output terminals WITH THE SPEAKER HOOKED UP. Set the gain to 20v. You just properly set your gains on your amp.

Now I somewhat agree with renhalt, in that his method works for him. He is taking a boosted signal going into another booster (his amp). I really don't like this method...and can easily lead to distortion of the subs and burnt voice coils.


Sent .
 
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