VQ35DE Dekonstrukt

tchuck

iS VIP
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Location
Portland, OR
Yo dudes. I picked up a complete VQ35DE on the super cheap a few days ago and wanted to make a thread to document my time spent with said motor. I found it on CL and the seller's story was that it had been in a flooded 350z that he purchased for parts. After significant procrastination, I finally went over to check it out a full three weeks after I initially saw the ad, found it to be in pretty good shape relative to my expectations, so I bought it, for $300 delivered to my driveway, and so began my little project. Immediate plans are a full tear down. If I find hardcore water damage I'll probably keep a few things and part it out. If the stars align, I may attempt a rebuild, but to be honest with myself the former is much more likely. Anyway, here's what's happened so far. I'll update this thread with pics as I progress. Enjoy. :)

DAY 1
This deal completely took me by surprise. I wasn't looking for a motor or anything, but my list of projects is down to about 4 single spaced pages so I figured what the hell. :tongue (2): My point being I had nowhere to put the motor and no way to move it, so the first thing I did was to hit up Harbor Freight for a simple engine stand rated for 750lbs. I'm not usually a fan of HF for tools due to their disgustingly low quality standards but something like this is pretty hard to screw up...and it was $50. :top:
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Fortunately the seller had a pretty big engine hoist that he brought to lift the motor out of the back of his truck. Unfortunately my work space is in my tool shed which is built such that the floor is about 10" off the ground. That meant I couldn't put the motor onto my new engine stand with any hope of getting it up into my shed. Ergo, I had to have it delivered onto a plastic pallet just outside the shed. I threw a tarp over it until I could figure out a way to get it inside.
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DAY 2

Not having figured out a way to get the motor inside yet, I decided to begin lightening the load and commence dis-assembly. Here's the back, still outside under the tarp. There is a fairly subtle water line about halfway up the flywheel that I didn't notice before.
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First to come off was the throttle body. It looked entirely unaffected by the flood, but there are pretty sensitive electronics inside so I'm going to hold off on an inventory comment until I can test it.
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Next was the plenum, both upper and lower. They are dirty as hell but don't appear to have been wet.
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Next was the fuel system, including fuel rail, injectors, and injector harness. All complete, undamaged, and very dirty.
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Injectors and seals look great and were holding a good amount of fuel in the rail without leaking.
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Intake manifold - dirty but no signs of water.
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At this point things got a little ugly. As soon as I removed the manifold I saw a good amount of surface rust on the back sides of the valves. Until then I was kind of hoping that the flooding hadn't actually entered the motor. Unfortunately I was wrong. :.frown:
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Cylinders 1-6, respectively.
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After seeing that I threw the tarp back over it and quit for the night.
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DAY 3

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Next, with the help of my buddy Archimedes, I was able to pry, prop, and drag the beast inside without so much as a scuff or stubbed toe. Score.
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Next I removed the valve covers to see whats what on the cam shafts. Another dose of disappointment was swallowed when I saw surface rust on 3/4 of them.
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After that I pretty much gave up on the idea of a smooth rebuild plan and settled into the reality of the project; I'm going to have to completely tear this thing down and assess each component individually to determine the fate of the whole assembly. So the valve covers went back on, the engine stand interface went on, and I began scheming on a means of lifting it onto the engine stand. Yes, I could just call up a couple friends to help, but what's the fun in that? :tongue (2):
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A car jack is far too precarious and even if it wasn't. it's not tall enough. Idea #1 - out.
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DAY 4

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This lead me to building a simple hoist system, which was a fun little project in itself. It basically consists of a couple Simpson hangers, a few 3/8x3" bolts, and a 1 ton cable ratchet winch hoist.
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Once the mini-crane was in place I threw a couple ATV ratchet straps rated at 600lbs each around the motor and began lifting it in place.
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Success!
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Such an exciting project. I can't wait to see where it goes. Even if it goes nowhere, nowhere is still a fun somewhere! :hmmmm2:
Put any frustration aside, you're going to have a good time. Thanks for sharing the experience. I wish I could tear into a project like that and be stoked about whatever results.
 
I say you have a mighty fine looking piece of standing art right there. Pick out a spot in the living room and you're good to go!
 
Too bad u ran into the rust spots. May be there is a product out by now that can bring it back to like new these days just takes time?

Exciting project nonetheless!!
 
I like the direction where this is going, lots of potential. Props for this project.
 
im sure u can prob sand blast the rust away on some of the non intricate block components, can u?. if so than u can continue along with the rebuild.. there's no loss of hope yet!
 
those cams have a special coating on them and the coating itself can rust like that. if you try to shave it off with a razor blade it may come off like a coating and reveal a clean cam undernieth. also I hate to tell you this after seeing the nice rig you mounted to swing this thing, but that engine is so light that 2 guys can pick it up easily and walk around with it like it's nothing... surprised me too the first time I realized just how easy it was for 2 guys to lift and move this engine...

originally looking at it and from being so used to cast iron heavy engines in the past, I just assumed it was so heavy too but it's way lighter than you think. curious to see what the bottom end looks like :)
 
This is a such a cold project. Subscribed!

Typo: I meant to say "cool" project :eek.:
 
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Did you ever burn oil? or at least 2qts between changes?
Im interested in knowing where the oil stays or the burn location
 
I say you have a mighty fine looking piece of standing art right there. Pick out a spot in the living room and you're good to go!

Ha! I'd probably have to find a new wife if I pulled something like that. :p

Too bad u ran into the rust spots. May be there is a product out by now that can bring it back to like new these days just takes time?

Exciting project nonetheless!!

Yeah, I was expecting it so its not so bad. Not sure about a product to remove - I usually just use a brass wire brush... we'll see.

I like the direction where this is going, lots of potential. Props for this project.

Thanks!

im sure u can prob sand blast the rust away on some of the non intricate block components, can u?. if so than u can continue along with the rebuild.. there's no loss of hope yet!

Not sure but I'm not worried about it. I can recoup my costs with the intake assembly so its a pretty low-stress operation.

those cams have a special coating on them and the coating itself can rust like that. if you try to shave it off with a razor blade it may come off like a coating and reveal a clean cam undernieth. also I hate to tell you this after seeing the nice rig you mounted to swing this thing, but that engine is so light that 2 guys can pick it up easily and walk around with it like it's nothing... surprised me too the first time I realized just how easy it was for 2 guys to lift and move this engine...

originally looking at it and from being so used to cast iron heavy engines in the past, I just assumed it was so heavy too but it's way lighter than you think. curious to see what the bottom end looks like :)

I am but one man, John. ;) I did notice that its lighter than I expected but its still too much for my girlish figure to handle alone and I don't want to have to call someone every time I want to move it around.
Hopefully I'll get a chance to try the rust scraping method today! Thanks for the tip!

just noticed the oil filter position, must of been from a RWD infiniti.

Its from a 350z.

Did you ever burn oil? or at least 2qts between changes?
Im interested in knowing where the oil stays or the burn location

It wasn't mine, but mine does burn about a half quart between changes (3000 miles or so).
 
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I had a couple hours this evening...
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Having the motor on the stand in the light has caused me to notice a lot of little things that I probably wouldn't otherwise, which is pretty cool. The first was in regard to the first part I pulled tonight - the crank pulley. It has what appears to be a partial depth dampening ring made of rubber on the face. I checked the one from the FX and it's the same.
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Next was the thermostat. I don't know how to test it but it looks to be in perfect condition. No signs of dirty water that I can see.
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Cam gear covers
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Cam chain tensioner cover (removed)
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water pump cover
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I've also concluded that someone less than adept has been into this motor before, which is unfortunate. I'm seeing finger-tightened bolts, terrible liquid gasket jobs - sometimes with missing oem gaskets, and this: Looks like they tried to pry off the timing chain cover without removing the two bolts inside the block... :hmmmm2:
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Speaking of those two bolts, being able to spin the motor like a big ass turkey makes their removal a breeze. Score 1 for having a service manual. :top:
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Based on the damage to the oil pan I can only assume that the motor was sitting on or dragged across the ground at some point in it's past life.
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On the inside the dents have broken the coating and caused a little flaking. In a rebuild situation this will have to be replaced.
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The fairly sloppy liquid gasket application. I've found several little chunks of this same grey product in the pan and under the valve covers. Also, no oem gasket on this one.
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Something in this picture doesn't belong...
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Meet mystery chunk #1.
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Other than that, what I can see of the bottom end looks good. The two bolts that secure the timing chain cover from the bottom are circled in red. The one on the left is behind the bolt boss on the same plane as the one on the right.
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Timing cover removed
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Timing chain tensioner. The little silver pin is mine to keep it adjusted properly for this chain.
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Timing chain stay
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Timing chain. No damage or wear that I can see.
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Cam gears - left bank
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Cam gears - right bank
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The valve covers look new. The main gaskets and the spark plug gaskets look and feel perfect.
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So I started to mark the cam covers and noticed two sets of existing marks. The first set looks like it was done by the pseudomechanic and locates the covers on their specific camshafts. Each set of three covers has its own mark as well as the head next to the cover:
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The "X"
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The "triangle"
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The "V"
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The "17"
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The second set of markings orient the cam covers and consist of a set of either one, two, or three punch marks. These markings do not agree with the current installation. I haven't really inspected the cams and covers yet but this is the biggest disappointment so far.
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Three on the head, two on this side of the cover (cover backwards)
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Two on the head, three on this side of the cover (cover backwards)
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One on the cover, one on the head (cover installed correctly)
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Both sides of the covers and heads are marked with the second set.
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Cam gears - left bank
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Not sure what this one is called. I guess it's techincally a cam cover, but it's more a part of the timing chain cover...
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Cam shafts ready for careful removal
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At this point two things happened. First, my phone (camera) died. Second, I ran out of paper towels. I took it as a sign to put away the tools for the day. I did remove the cams and aside from the aforementioned surface rust, they look good. As a matter of fact the whole head looks good. No signs of water, water damage, or broken parts. Hopefully the lackey mechanic didn't go any deeper than this.
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Next up: Pulling the left head. I'm hoping to get a chance tomorrow evening.
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