Camber correction for dropped 2nd Gens

GEE50FX

The Traveller
iS VIP
Car
2010 White FX50S-sold
Name
Wayne
Hi Guys, I thought I would start a thread just for this subject, since both Eibach and H&R are producing springs for our rides.

The FX looks sooo much better dropped, besides looks it handles so much better.

The problem is our negative camber gets excessive and our toe goes out of whack. This will cause excessive tire wear especially if you drive your FX a lot (I know that's why I bought mine, I love driving it :cool:)At present no one manufactures anything to correct this. One of the main manufactures of these parts is Specialty Products Company or as everyone knows them SPC. Here is a link to their site http://www.spcperformance.com/ I have talked to them a couple of times and the only way they will start to produce a fix is if they get lots of requests for the 09+ FX35 AWD and RWD (squeaky wheel gets the grease)

As of right now, they don't think anything will be available this summer, so unfortunately I am removing my springs and re-installing the OEM springs because of the long trips I am doing and don't want to destroy my tires.When this can be corrected I may get another set of springs

I talked to Doug in the Tech section and he took my name and phone number, he said he talked to someone else requesting this yesterday along with me.
If you want a fix, I suggest giving SPC a call and make sure to ask for the Tech Section so they can get your info. SPC's toll free number is
1-800-525-6505.

 
Gonna sticky this thread for you guys for a time. Put those calls in! I'm sick of seeing 2nd Gen FX riding so high
 
Do you know how far out of spec the lowering springs put you? Isn't it like 1/10th of a degree or something? Just wondering how that translates to tire wear in the real world. Seems like it wouldn't be very much at all...

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For reals. Mine are pretty far out of spec and the tire wear seems to be fine (at least for the last 3-4K miles).
 
tirerack has a pretty good write up on alignment stuff:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

I'm going to try & look at the arms available for the g's & see if maybe they could be modified to work for you guys, but it may come down to actually buying a pair & comparing side by side to an fx upper arm really... depending on how the aftermarket arms are made, it might not be too difficult to mod it to work on the new fx...
 
Do you know how far out of spec the lowering springs put you? Isn't it like 1/10th of a degree or something? Just wondering how that translates to tire wear in the real world. Seems like it wouldn't be very much at all...

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Tim , here are my camber and toe settings on my 09 FX35 AWD with Eibachs. This is the best they could get after I had them on for a month the drop was about 1.1" by my measurements.

Front
FL Camber -1.28 ( Front Camber Spec range -1.08 to 0.41 )
FR Camber -1.27
FL Toe 0.08 ( Front Toe Spec Range 0.04 to 0.11 )
FR Toe 0.08

Rear
RL Camber -2.27 ( Rear Camber Spec Range -1.66 to -0.67 )
RR Camber -2.69
RL Toe 0.16 ( Rear Toe Spec Range 0.00 to 0.23 )
RR Toe 0.16
 
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I'm going to get mine aligned tomorrow morning and see how bad it is. I'll post up the before and after specs. I plan on keeping the h&r's on anyway, no way I'm going back to stock.
 
I'm going to get mine aligned tomorrow morning and see how bad it is. I'll post up the before and after specs. I plan on keeping the h&r's on anyway, no way I'm going back to stock.
Excellent Jesse, post them on this thread so we can compare with others. I got mine aligned right after the install, then realigned 1 month later and it did change a bit after it settled (my rear toe really went out of whack.)
 
Will do, yeah I have a feeling this will be worse like you said but we'll see. I don't mind if its off as much as you because I don't drive this nearly as much. But it will suck wearing the tires out in-correctly.
 
Don't mean to jack this thread, but this alignment/camber/toe issue on the the 2nd gen's the same as the 1st gen's?


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I don't know if it is offtopic or not but i think it's very important what this guy say's here on this honda forum... Read the first post.
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2614449
That is true if you can get the toe to near 0, but check my readings above, we need kits Baias.

Negative camber wears the insides of the tires and bad toe gives us rapid wear and cupping on the outside. My mechanic is very experienced with both building race/performance cars and runs a very trusted and well known performance shop. He told me I would have excessive tire wear and it is HIM I believe.
If you do not run your car much or don't care about replacing tires than you need not worry about it.
 
additional negative camber can be a good thing for performance up to a point... if you are a very aggressive driver always pushing hard through the turns then adding 1* of negative camber on a street car can be a good thing, if you are a conservative highway mileage type then you will see negative effects sooner...

camber is all about contact patch & what that contact patch does as the vehicle rolls through the turn... when your contact patch looks like a slice of pizza because of too much negative camber, it doesn't matter so much what some guy in a honda says, you will wear tires unevenly and also not have the best handling possible...

there is more to the equation than JUST the static negative camber... you have to realize that factory geometry will increase camber as the suspension compresses, BUT should also realize that this camber curve is NOT linear, meaning the more it compresses the more it cambers, increasing compression-camber ratio the lower it gets... what this means is that just by lowering the static ride height you are also increasing the camber curve, just because you are lowered means that you will wind up with additional negative camber as the body rolls, that, combined with too much initial negative camber is not such a good thing... a track car? maybe, but a car that you want to see 30k miles or more out of tires, then no... not good.. & lets not forget that up until now were only talking about 1" drop.... it will get progressively worse as the drop goes lower...
 
additional negative camber can be a good thing for performance up to a point... if you are a very aggressive driver always pushing hard through the turns then adding 1* of negative camber on a street car can be a good thing, if you are a conservative highway mileage type then you will see negative effects sooner...

camber is all about contact patch & what that contact patch does as the vehicle rolls through the turn... when your contact patch looks like a slice of pizza because of too much negative camber, it doesn't matter so much what some guy in a honda says, you will wear tires unevenly and also not have the best handling possible...

there is more to the equation than JUST the static negative camber... you have to realize that factory geometry will increase camber as the suspension compresses, BUT should also realize that this camber curve is NOT linear, meaning the more it compresses the more it cambers, increasing compression-camber ratio the lower it gets... what this means is that just by lowering the static ride height you are also increasing the camber curve, just because you are lowered means that you will wind up with additional negative camber as the body rolls, that, combined with too much initial negative camber is not such a good thing... a track car? maybe, but a car that you want to see 30k miles or more out of tires, then no... not good.. & lets not forget that up until now were only talking about 1" drop.... it will get progressively worse as the drop goes lower...
Thanks for the great explanation John, that is pretty well exactly what my shop that does my work told me. I appreciate your clear explanation.
 
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