what offset do I need?
- Thread starter J3FF3R$0N
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- Vancouver, Canada
Sry about the picture quality. But you should able to see there is still a bit of distance from the top of the rear quarter panel to the tire sidewall.
PS. My car is lower with H&R spring with 15mm spacer and FX50s knuckle at the rear.
I think you will need another 1cm to be flush according to my picture (it's angled by couple degrees). My tire sidewall is about 1cm to be perfect flush at the rear with the top of the quarter panel. But keep in mind, i am talking about flush with the tire sidewall (usually bulge) not the face of the wheel.
But listen to John. He's the expert in this. :smile (2):
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ok, a quick lesson for you in offset for you to try & see it more clearly...
picture an 8" wide wheel. now picture the wheel mounting surface, where it mounts to the hub. picture this wheel mounting surface as being dead center on this 8" rim, this would be whats called 0 offset, there is no offset, it's dead center.
now take this 8" wheel with 0 offset & move the whole wheel out one inch... at this point the wheel mounting surface will not be dead center anymore with 4" in & 4" out, instead it will now have 3" on the inside & 5" on the outside, this is what would be called a -25mm offset. it's 25mm LESS than centered, which give you the - offset#... if you moved it in 1" instead of out, then it would have 3" outside & 5" inside... this would be called a +25mm offset, it's now sitting 25mm in more than what would be dead center.... that's offset in a nutshell, it's the amount the wheel is "offset" from dead center...
this is why a 8" wheel with a +25mm offset will not sit the same as a 10" wheel with +25mm offset. the 8" wheel with +25mm offset will have 5" inside & 3" out, where a 10" wheel with +25mm offset would have 6" inside & 4" out, both have +25mm offset but the 10" wheel still sticks out an inch more than the 8" wheel with the exact same offset, to get a 10" wheel to sit at exactly the same outside spot that the 8" sits with +25mm offset,the 10" wheel would need a +50 offset, this will give you the same exact amount of "stickout" because it will result in the same 3" on the outside...+ offset means it's in MORE THAN centered & - offset means it's not even in enough to be centered, - is less than centered... adding 25mm offset is moving the whole wheel in 1"... hope this helps you see it a little more clearly & if theres anything you don't get or need clarified lmk
So if my current 22s are 9.5 38mm with 20mm spacers I should equal 18mm offset ?
and a 10.5 25mm offset shouls sit 6mm further out than my current set up
Maybe 15mm or 10mm offset in the rear routhly 1/2" to 1" further out ?
View attachment 227073
SexualChocolate
Member
- Location
- SE Houston
So you think 33 front and 28 rear is good
Should I try and get a staggered look or just get front and rear the same offset
Should I try and get a staggered look or just get front and rear the same offset
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
Mine is the same offset both front and rear, so does the wheel width, but my lips are staggered, front 3", rear 4".
However, I have use extended lugs at the front due to the wheel design, the center piece of the wheel is thicker and my wheel nut only locks with 2~3 turns of the threads. But that depends on how the wheel manufactuerer making the wheels.
vancityguy
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- Location
- vancouver
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- none
sorry to hijack just had a question. will 20x8.5 38mm offset all around fit my 2006 fx35?
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
It should since, our oem 20" is 20x8.5 +40mm, bolt pattern: 114.3 x 5
vancityguy
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- Location
- vancouver
- Car
- none
- Location
- brooklyn, ny
So if my current 22s are 9.5 38mm with 20mm spacers I should equal 18mm offset ?
yes, a spacer brings the wheel out, it takes away from positive offset, it's negative, so a +38mm with a 20mm spacer(-20mm) is = to a 18mm offset wheel
and a 10.5 25mm offset shouls sit 6mm further out than my current set up
yes, adding 1" (25.4mm) to the wheel width in turn adds ~13mm(12.7mm) to both the inside & the outside lip compared to the existing 9.5" wheel, but then going to +25 in the new wheel from the +18 of the previous will take away 7mm of the 13 mm you added, so yeah, end result sticks out 6mm more than the previous wheel, (5.7mm). now you know & understand offset
Maybe 15mm or 10mm offset in the rear routhly 1/2" to 1" further out ?
15mm is a little more than 1/2", 25mm is ~1"
---------- Post added at 01:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:40 AM ----------
it will fit about the same as the factory wheel, almost no difference, just 2mm in. for the center bore you will need hubcentric rings for our size hub which is 66.1mm, so you need adapter rings that are 66.1 x 73.1, fairly common size
---------- Post added at 01:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:46 AM ----------
yeah, that's the same fitments as the gtr wheels & is really maxed out, I agree +25 on a 10.5" is max without poking out
yes, a spacer brings the wheel out, it takes away from positive offset, it's negative, so a +38mm with a 20mm spacer(-20mm) is = to a 18mm offset wheel
and a 10.5 25mm offset shouls sit 6mm further out than my current set up
yes, adding 1" (25.4mm) to the wheel width in turn adds ~13mm(12.7mm) to both the inside & the outside lip compared to the existing 9.5" wheel, but then going to +25 in the new wheel from the +18 of the previous will take away 7mm of the 13 mm you added, so yeah, end result sticks out 6mm more than the previous wheel, (5.7mm). now you know & understand offset
Maybe 15mm or 10mm offset in the rear routhly 1/2" to 1" further out ?
15mm is a little more than 1/2", 25mm is ~1"
---------- Post added at 01:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:40 AM ----------
it will fit about the same as the factory wheel, almost no difference, just 2mm in. for the center bore you will need hubcentric rings for our size hub which is 66.1mm, so you need adapter rings that are 66.1 x 73.1, fairly common size
---------- Post added at 01:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:46 AM ----------
yeah, that's the same fitments as the gtr wheels & is really maxed out, I agree +25 on a 10.5" is max without poking out
vancityguy
Member
- Location
- vancouver
- Car
- none
perfect! so essentially the fit/stance everything will be the same as my current setup with the stock 20" wheels? only difference being it sits in the wheel well 2mm more or will it extend 2mm more? 2mm is really nothing anyways.
also these hubcentric rings maybe once i specify the year make etc.. for my car the wheel manufacturer will send me the appropriate ones im guessing.. or will will the shop that installs my tires/wheels have these on hand usually? what do they cost?
- Location
- Vancouver, Canada
TurboCAD has just listed out our bore size. Always listen to him man. John is the GOD in FX. :wink (2):
Places in Vancouver at place like Volcotire usually charge about ~$45 CAD per set of 4 rings. Normally, the wheel manufacturers will provide the rings with the wheels once you specified the make and model of the car you intend to install these wheels on.
Installation, mounting and balancing tires and wheels is about $25 ~ $45 at each corner depending on the shop and your tire profile and wheels. You can always ask they to give you a package price. Also, if possible, ask for road-forced balancing, if it is available. That adds load to the tire and wheels during balancing to simulate the driving load, just to eliminate any potential balancing issues if you plan to put tpms on these wheels. Since wheels with tpms is PIA to do near perfect balance.
Which shop are you getting your wheels from?
Places in Vancouver at place like Volcotire usually charge about ~$45 CAD per set of 4 rings. Normally, the wheel manufacturers will provide the rings with the wheels once you specified the make and model of the car you intend to install these wheels on.
Installation, mounting and balancing tires and wheels is about $25 ~ $45 at each corner depending on the shop and your tire profile and wheels. You can always ask they to give you a package price. Also, if possible, ask for road-forced balancing, if it is available. That adds load to the tire and wheels during balancing to simulate the driving load, just to eliminate any potential balancing issues if you plan to put tpms on these wheels. Since wheels with tpms is PIA to do near perfect balance.
Which shop are you getting your wheels from?
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vancityguy
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- vancouver
- Car
- none
im actually planning on ordering them online from the u.s. and just brining them back into canada myself. my tread is still good so ill use my stock tires. and probably go to volco to get them mounted/balanced. i am thinking its not worth it to install the tpms onto the new wheels since you have to go back to infinity and get them working correctly apparently. i am guessing i can just leave them on my stock rims should i choose to re-mount them later?
SexualChocolate
Member
- Location
- SE Houston
Hub rings will come with the wheels. If not the shop you purchase them from should provide them for you (they are seriously cheap). But these are Work wheels and they will be provided (say they are for the FX, same as the G35/350Z/most nissan and infinitis).
TPMS will work with just swapping them. The tire shop will want to rebuild them, which will be minimal (I think they charged me 40, maybe less for all 4 at Discount Tire). It's something I could have done myself for less but what the heck. If your current TPMS sensors work then they will continue working just the same without reprogramming.
You will require adapters for the TPMS, again not so expensive. I paid for IForged ones and then found Asanti 90 degree ones for cheap lol.
Here are the different IForged ones...(the 90 degree or the bracket ones are the ones you will need, your wheels are coming with 90 degree valve stems already so just get the bracket type because they are cheaper).
http://www.iforged.com/store/index.php?cPath=4&osCsid=7f035070e36bf8ca54a82bb7fbb7f314
On ebay you can buy the Asanti 90 degree ones that come with new 90 degree chrome valve stems for under 30 shipped US.
vancityguy
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- Location
- vancouver
- Car
- none
thanks man! i was under the impression infiniti needed to program them or something. my tpms work fine right now was worried about swapping em over.
mbarb15
Member
- Location
- Lyndhurst, NJ
thread revival.. opinions on 22" x 10" +20 offset all around... options for the wheels are 22x10 +20 or 22x10 +35... what to do??
I would go with the 22 x 10 +20 offset. This setup will extend wheel 50mm out from stock wheel position. If you wanted a flush flush stance, you can still add a 10mm spacer. The stock wheel studs can handle 10mm spacer without any issue.
For your reference, my 22 setup on my FX35: 22 x 10.5 +40 offset with 25mm spacer in the front and 20mm spacer in the rear. I did have 25mm at one time, but the wheels and pokes out about 5mm poke in the rear.
For your reference, my 22 setup on my FX35: 22 x 10.5 +40 offset with 25mm spacer in the front and 20mm spacer in the rear. I did have 25mm at one time, but the wheels and pokes out about 5mm poke in the rear.
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
- Car
- 2007 FX35
Go with the +20. How it looks will depend on your ride height. If you're low, there will be rubbing in the front w/ that offset, but no big deal. If you're on springs, or stock ride height, I don't think there will be issues.
mbarb15
Member
- Location
- Lyndhurst, NJ
i was thinking of going with the +20 but i was afraid it was going to be right there and wasnt sure if it was gonna stick out or not...
its stock now, but with the wheels im planning on buying a set of coilovers as well... so that should take care of the height issue...