PlastiDip Tips & Tricks

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pmanliu

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NYC
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2017 WRX
*NOTE: I did not write this DIY, just found it and thought it might be helpful for others*

Mods, i did not want to put this link in the DIY section as it was not written for iS...

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Many have used plastidip to paint their grilles and apparently you can get creative with it. Check out how ig0r painted the mt fuji and emblems... Neat process

http://g35nyc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=612509

Anyone else have tips to share about plastidip? My only other would be DO NOT clear coat it.. the plastidip will absorb the clear coat and it might come out looking like crap instead
 
Cool finds. I wonder the durability of the platidip left on emblem since the "excess" is easily peal off.
 
just got an idea... think im going to plastidip my rear wiper later today. Its all faded and ugly looking right now...
 
pmanliu said:
just got an idea... think im going to plastidip my rear wiper later today. Its all faded and ugly looking right now...
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I would probably pass on that. Too much work involved imo. Try this dye called Showroom New restorer.

http://showroomnewproducts.com/

I used it on all my faded lowers, around the wiper cowl, antenna, rear wiper and even the wheel wells and the results were excellent. It only works on plastic and will not adhere to metal or the paintwork. Also it works on flat, non glossy surfaces so its no use on the faded window trim. But for all else, its great! Really simple to apply, I just used a sponge brush applicator and applied it all over.
 
just what the doctor ordered... def try on my rear wiper. anyone know if this will work on the door pillars and the surrounding window channel?

aerobfa said:
I would probably pass on that. Too much work involved imo. Try this dye called Showroom New restorer.

http://showroomnewproducts.com/

I used it on all my faded lowers, around the wiper cowl, antenna, rear wiper and even the wheel wells and the results were excellent. It only works on plastic and will not adhere to metal or the paintwork. Also it works on flat, non glossy surfaces so its no use on the faded window trim. But for all else, its great! Really simple to apply, I just used a sponge brush applicator and applied it all over.
Click to expand...
 
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aerobfa said:
I would probably pass on that. Too much work involved imo. Try this dye called Showroom New restorer.

http://showroomnewproducts.com/

I used it on all my faded lowers, around the wiper cowl, antenna, rear wiper and even the wheel wells and the results were excellent. It only works on plastic and will not adhere to metal or the paintwork. Also it works on flat, non glossy surfaces so its no use on the faded window trim. But for all else, its great! Really simple to apply, I just used a sponge brush applicator and applied it all over.
Click to expand...

wow thanks for the link. how long does this product usually last before you have to reapply it though?
 
Beast45 said:
just what the doctor ordered... def try on my rear wiper. anyone know if this will work on the door pillars and the surrounding window channel?
Click to expand...

No, it will not work well on the faded window trim. The dye just stains the plastic basically, it wont dry glossy. it will be a little darker, but will be flat and dull.

wow thanks for the link. how long does this product usually last before you have to reapply it though?

Im not sure. I did mine back in march sometime. My lowers, especially around the front trim and wheel wells were practically gray and sun burnt from uv rays. After using it, the car looks almost new. My '04 is remarkably clean for being six years old. So far, so good for the past few months the dye has'nt faded or anything. I would say it should last at least a year. The bottle cost about $15 for a small bottle and is plenty to coat your car several times.

Actually the only part that I had trouble dying was the rear wiper arm, lol. It was like gray and streaky from uv/weather damage and I had to use about 4-5 coats to get rid of it.
 
i had tried plastidip on my grille and it held up extremely well but looked too flat despite adding plastidip clear coat to it. i switched to krylon to match the wheels n headlight housing. i wonder how it's gonna hold up in the rear on those chrome accents.........
 
i haven't done anything to the rear chrome yet, i will have to get it professionally painted since my wheels n grille are gloss black. plastidip is matte black, won't match well if i do this.
 
I wound up doing a full chrome delete and wheels on my 11 M37 and couldn't be happier. My car is harbor blue (which looks green or gray) so went with Anthracite on anything near factory paint and the wheels. Window surrounds and roof strips got black. As soon as I get more than 10 posts I can post before and after pics. It really changes the look of the car.
 
So my chrome grill is starting to bubble, I am guessing I need to sand it out before I Plasti Dip it correct? Would you just start with a 300 grit and work up? How smooth and sanded does it need to be for the Plasti dip?

Thanks for the info
 
The smoother the surface the better the results, if you plastidip over bumps or dips it will never level and show in the final results.
 
If you're going to sand your grill, just use regular spray paint. The only advantage of Plastidip is that you can peel it if you don't like it. But if the surface is already damaged, just sand and use spray paint. You can get more colors, you could even go gloss, and you won't have that weird Plastidip texture. Plus it will be more durable.

I'd start with maybe 400 and work up. 300 is pretty coarse and you don't want to put scratches in that you then have to work out with the finer grits. If 400 isn't doing it, you can always go down to 300.

AZdevil09 said:
So my chrome grill is starting to bubble, I am guessing I need to sand it out before I Plasti Dip it correct? Would you just start with a 300 grit and work up? How smooth and sanded does it need to be for the Plasti dip?

Thanks for the info
Click to expand...
 
shadow191 said:
If you're going to sand your grill, just use regular spray paint. The only advantage of Plastidip is that you can peel it if you don't like it. But if the surface is already damaged, just sand and use spray paint. You can get more colors, you could even go gloss, and you won't have that weird Plastidip texture. Plus it will be more durable.

I'd start with maybe 400 and work up. 300 is pretty coarse and you don't want to put scratches in that you then have to work out with the finer grits. If 400 isn't doing it, you can always go down to 300.
Click to expand...

Shadow took ur advice. So started and removing the chrome is a total pain. Any advice how to move quicker?
Currently I am peeling it off bit by bit using small razor.
 
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