should I cut the OEM rotors or just get new ones?

H

hangout

Member
Location
New York
Car
Infiniti Q70L
I have the 2003 FX35 with 43k miles on it.

since last week, I found the steering wheel and pad pedal will vibrate while the car go on high speed over 70 mph. Not hard braking, I just stepped on the pedal half way, I felt the vibration on both.

I changed the brake pads 3 times in two months. came back to OEM pads now with 1k miles on it.

I think it's the rotors problem, but the rotors looks pretty smooth to me.
so, should I cut the oem rotors or go get the after market drill slot one? (which one?)

please give me some ideas. Thanks
 
i believe there was a TSB for this it is your rotors they tend to "warp" if you still have your warrant you can take it to the dealer they will change them for you.
 
my fx is 2003 , warranty is long gone :(

my brake will make some noise while the car almost fully stop (after traffic jam driving), Do you think it's because the rotors also?

back then I though that's the brake pads worn out, so I did change pads few times already.
 
hangout said:
my fx is 2003 , warranty is long gone :(

my brake will make some noise while the car almost fully stop (after traffic jam driving), Do you think it's because the rotors also?

back then I though that's the brake pads worn out, so I did change pads few times already.
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i changed my pads to the EBC green stuff and never had any noises come . As far as the noise it could be because of heating up or some other common reasons but the warping could explain the shaking. You can check out some nice sport rotors from EBC reasonable prices one sport rotor which is drilled or slotted either way is about $65 +SH
 
hangout said:
I have the 2003 FX35 with 43k miles on it.

since last week, I found the steering wheel and pad pedal will vibrate while the car go on high speed over 70 mph. Not hard braking, I just stepped on the pedal half way, I felt the vibration on both.

I changed the brake pads 3 times in two months. came back to OEM pads now with 1k miles on it.

I think it's the rotors problem, but the rotors looks pretty smooth to me.
so, should I cut the oem rotors or go get the after market drill slot one? (which one?)

please give me some ideas. Thanks
Click to expand...

///8765

It does sound like you should cut your rotors. I think this is the best way to make sure that the vibration is coming from the rotors and not from any other part of your car. Cutting the rotors is a very inexpensive solution.

After cutting the rotors, you should be sure to follow the brake pad burnishing procedure.

After cutting or installing new rotors, I followed the recommendation to accelerate up to 60 mph and to brake down to 10mph, then immediately accelerate back up to 60 and do it again for 10 cycles. Brake pressure should be 80-90% power (BEFORE ABS kicks in). This heats up the rotor and the pads. The idea is not just bedding (making sure the pads are fully seated on the rotor), but also "burnishing" which is to deposit of a layer of pad material on the rotor. This can only be done when both are hot.
 
Random - OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer so it's original from factory ;)


I had the same problem but after I went with Rotorpros - my "shaking problem" has gone.

Try a solid after-market rotors.
 
wait... dealers will replace your warped rotors under warranty? Asking cause mine are super warped at 30k miles. The fx is just too fun to drive...
 
had same problem

had same problem, after changing rotors and pads it happened to be stuck caliper that had to be replace. I thought for three months that it was cheap tires that carmax put on car, it was acutally poor maintance inspection that led to no uneven brake pad ware that eventually wore out rotor and was due to stuck caliper.
 
trhyne04 said:
had same problem, after changing rotors and pads it happened to be stuck caliper that had to be replace. I thought for three months that it was cheap tires that carmax put on car, it was acutally poor maintance inspection that led to no uneven brake pad ware that eventually wore out rotor and was due to stuck caliper.
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replaced the caliper !!! just wondering how much that would be ??
 
pmanliu said:
wait... dealers will replace your warped rotors under warranty? Asking cause mine are super warped at 30k miles. The fx is just too fun to drive...
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I wish... That would be like saying they will replace your front bumper when you crash into a tree. :laugh: Tiger woods, lol.
 
pmanliu said:
wait... dealers will replace your warped rotors under warranty? Asking cause mine are super warped at 30k miles. The fx is just too fun to drive...
Click to expand...


i dont know about miles but if you have warranty yes they will GIL aka Babaluwee told me he had his replace under warranty
 
one silly question, it's the OEM pads on the car now, i replaced it only 300 miles ago,
If i'm going to cut or replace the rotors, can I keep the pads? ( I know it's always better change it together )
 
You should be OK, but be prepared to replace the pad(s) just in case.

If the pad did wear unevenly and it is not sitting flat on the rotor, it might not "correct" itself with normal wear. You can take some medium grit sandpaper and lightly resurface the brake pad (much easier than you think it would be) if you do have noise or a slight vibration from one corner. Go slow - material comes off those pads very quickly.

Coming from a guy with aftermarket rotor and pad experience, I'd suggest you stay with OEM. Aftermarket brakes are almost entirely for looks unless you are punishing your FX and need better heat dissipation or resistance to hot fade. Staying with the OEM parts guarantees any Infiniti, Nissan or even mega-brake shop can handle repairs.

First thing you should do is get your rotors cut and see if that takes care of it. Measuring rotor run-out ON THE CAR is the best way to diagnose warped rotors - and to tell how much material needs to be removed to make them flat again. If they are too warped to cut flat, replacement is the only other option.
 
jumbosrule said:
You should be OK, but be prepared to replace the pad(s) just in case.

If the pad did wear unevenly and it is not sitting flat on the rotor, it might not "correct" itself with normal wear. You can take some medium grit sandpaper and lightly resurface the brake pad (much easier than you think it would be) if you do have noise or a slight vibration from one corner. Go slow - material comes off those pads very quickly.

since, I'm thinkg to buy the drill slot rotors, my friend told me with the slot design, the rotors will cut the current pads to fit on the rotors every time I step on the brake..
It's sounds make sense to me :)

what do you think?
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A drilled, slotted rotor is more abrasive than the OEM flat rotor, but I would think they would both treat a pad the same way. The slotted rotor might take off more material with each brake, but it would not correct a pad that is not fully seated against the rotor.

You could give it a try though. Put in the new rotors and old pads and see how it goes. If you still have a problem, resurface the pads and if that doesn't work - new pads.
 
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