Alignment Question

lowering will def change the toe, incorrect toe is the biggest killer of tires so yeah, really you should.. I also agree that waiting a week or 2 for settling is a good idea, unless your on eibachs, which never really stop settling at all :tongue (2):
 
yep the rear toes will be negative.. you will need to buy a toe/camber kit to fix it. i recently bought one for mine FX i'm tired of all the alignment spec be correct and not the rear one. plus the buying tired so soon is killing me too.. i have to buy tired again.. ugh
 
I dont think you'll need a kit. You should be at the factory spec'd limits at most after alignment. Make sure you do it on a 'Hunter'
 
I've done it in three different places and no luck.. The guy tell me they can't turn the adjusting bolt anymore..

And for some reason my FX became lower than before.. I have eibachs springs..
 
Weird. Seemed OK the first I tried

Alignment Numbers:

 Front camber: -1.2 (L), -1.3 (R)
Rear camber: -1.4 (L), -1.5 (R)

Front toe: +0.06 (L), +0.06 (R)
Rear toe: +0.17 (L), +0.16 (R)
 
Lower offset wheel position will technically result in more camber. Contact patch is moved further away from pivot points.

Turbocads upper control arm mod is probably the most ideal way to correct the angles of being really low. I had Technosqaure do it to my FX, and subsequently had to reverse it since it really really fixed the camber. hahahah
 
So if i had a half coil cut out of eibachs in the front +25mm spacers i would be even further from being able to keep it to factory specs? Is this correct?
 
The Macpherson struts don't usually go out of wack unless the mounting holes have slop to adjust it a little. I'm talking about the rear mostly.
 
ha, what happened when you relocated the upper pivots? wheels were hitting the body? that's one drawback of that mod, if your wheels were flush before then after they may stick out too much... I was lucky that I went pretty conservative on my offset when I built my wheels, so the mod made mine go from tucked to almost flush at that point, but yeah, it does really really fix it if your wheels can take it
 
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We went up and out on the pivot points, might have gone to far up. lol, upper control arm was pretty much touching the frame when the suspension compressed. Wheels were positive camber with the air bags inflated and wouldn't camber much at all when going down. Lower arm adjustment did just about nothing too. hahahaha
 
I went up & slightly out with mine too & it worked out perfect for me. when I raise the car & have full droop then yeah, my wheels go way positive, but at that sweet spot of ride height or lower it works really well...

I think ideally would be to set this up as an adjusment point with a cam washer, but that would take a lot of work & include having to drop the subframe completely to set that up right. on full compression my upper arms also just touch the unibody frame rail, I just bent the lip a bit & I'm good, but of course not as low as you are either...

to go as low as you with this mod would require notching the unibody rail & create a pocket for the arm to sit into on full compression. "C" notching is common on full frame cars when bagged for full drop. another option would be building a custom upper arm that has a bit of a Z shape to it... this wouldn't affect the geometry cause all that matters is the pivot points, the arm can be any shape really & as long as the pivots & bj are in the correct location it would still work the same... the wheels not cambering much as it's dropped is good really, but of course if you need this extra camber for wheel clearance to tuck then at that point it's not so good... if I ever have my rear subframe out I'm going to set it up as an adjustment point with a cam washer like the lowers are...
 
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