Jumbo Boost

Hey John, the intake charge is heated when it hits the turbo, which is why the UICP is typically called the "hot pipe" and this is cooled back down after the intercooler, which is why the LICP is typically the "cold pipe."

That being said, doesn't the MAP sensor account/compensate for the difference in density from the compressed, charged air entering the intake manifold, versus the air that would pass through a MAF sensor situated just after the air filter?
 
I think we may be getting a little too technical for the discussion at hand, seeing as most people aren't versed in thermodynamics and physics...

And yet some of us are, including the guy who started this thread. :wink:

^I think most people read the first three words of complicated posts and move on. FWIW, I enjoy the technical discussion... .

Me too - bring it on!

sorry, I know we can sometimes get very technical, but forced induction is a pretty technically intense thing too, & the technical stuff is really where the difference is between a good setup & a great setup.

Totally agree, but I sometimes think a lot of guys lose the forest through the trees. In my case, I really think I have moderate goals. A lot of the details we are discussing are overkill IMO, but at least I have the ability to make an educated decision. For me there is a value point and it lies somewhere between a good setup and a great setup. I purposefully decide to exclude a nice feature because of the expense in some cases. I drew the line at a single scroll turbo over a twin scroll, as an example. It might be nice to have twin scroll, but makes fabrication a bit more complicated. At my power goals, I don't think the efficiency advantage is worth the change in cost.

I think chucks summary is pretty spot on from the way I gather it too, each "custom" turbo install will be a bit different & blow thru accounts for these differences where draw thru doesn't. factory setups are all identical so draw thru can be used more uniformly across all the same vehicles from an OEM point of view

Absolutely each install is truly, "custom" and as I keep coming back to - many of these decisions will be left up to the installer based on his experience and recommendations. I'm not going to demand he does something he's never done before. As I ask a lot of questions that come from these threads, so as a relative newbie to the tuning world, I think I have learned a ton in the last 6 years of ownership and 2 years on this forum. And my knowledge is almost 100% relative to the FX, though I do follow every reference link posted by the guys I have come to recognize as knowledgeable here on IS.

This afternoon I actually went back to one of the install shops I had visited a while back. Discussed the set-up and nailed down a few more details. I'm hoping to get a quote pretty soon here, but based on my goals we're sizing the gates and BOV on a single scroll turbo, with all custom piping. Going with a Haltec and deleting the MAF, so it seems that part is decided.
 
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No more MAF, so where is the BOV going? Hot pipe or cold pipe?

Also, now that you've decided no MAF, full vent to atmosphere on the BOV?!?!? Or still planning on recirc? You can get away with a VTA now, so why complicate it with a recirc setup? :P Vent that loud sucka!
 
No more MAF, so where is the BOV going? Hot pipe or cold pipe?

Also, now that you've decided no MAF, full vent to atmosphere on the BOV?!?!? Or still planning on recirc? You can get away with a VTA now, so why complicate it with a recirc setup? :P Vent that loud sucka!

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In the spirit of this build, I'll probably recirculate. Seems like a waste to just blow off already cooled air, no matter how cool it sounds.
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Tchuck is right - that's what I wrote back then...

But today at the shop we discussed leaving the BOV open. It hasn't been decided for sure, but I need to hear a couple examples in my size range and he wants to arrange a couple of rides for me to evaluate the sound in and out of the car. He seems to think I'll like it. The wastegates will definitely be tapped back into the exhaust downpipe.

He also mentioned placing the BOV "as close to the turbo as possible" though I remember John mentioning at least 12 inches from the turbo, I think...
 
Hey John, the intake charge is heated when it hits the turbo, which is why the UICP is typically called the "hot pipe" and this is cooled back down after the intercooler, which is why the LICP is typically the "cold pipe."

That being said, doesn't the MAP sensor account/compensate for the difference in density from the compressed, charged air entering the intake manifold, versus the air that would pass through a MAF sensor situated just after the air filter?


ok, don't want to beat this maf vs speed density thing to death, especially since it seems jumbo decided to go speed density anyway, but to answer frank on this....

I do know about the hot & cold side of the fmic, the turbo is not heating the air just because the turbo itself is hot, it is heating the air because it is compressing it & just the act of compressing the air itself raises it's temperature alot, just one of the laws of gasses in general. but realize that even the "cold" side, after the intercooler can be & most times is still hotter than the air originally entering the turbo, sometimes much hotter. there will be a difference in density. the air pretty much changes properties to the point that is is not the same measured air that entered the air filter before the turbo. now, the maf sensor is no longer acurately telling the ecu exactly what is entering the engine at all, the maf sensor is now almost performing like a load sensor instead of a true maf sensor. a blow through setup, while admitedly having the problem of turbulence & non laminar airflow, it is at least actually exposed to the actual density of the mass of air that is entering the motor.


contrary to what some may believe, a map sensor & speed density setups in general are not nearly as good as acurately measuring the mass air flow into the engine. that's right, from a fuel calculating standpoint MAF is definately superior to speed density. the main reason most will go to speed density is because a MAF sensor is usually a restriction, combined with the problems were talking about of both draw thru & blow thru complications that will render the maf that much less effective to begin with of acurately measuring the mass air into the engine, once the maf info is no longer acurate it looses it's big advantage...

speed density is guessing at the actual amount of air that it must match fuel too, it does not see the actual air at all. no, instead it just sees the rpm of the engine, the load(map) of the engine & the inlet air temperature, & from this information it must refer to tables to try & guess how much air is entering the engine. this is a tuners job, to modify the tables so that when the engine is operating in a certain perameter & at each & every different perameter the tables will show it how much fuel to add, all the while never actually "seeing" the air itself.

maf actually sees the air. if the ecu actually sees the air it can be easy to know how much fuel to add. that is why a maf car can have things done to it that can change the VE of the engine quite a bit & for the most part the MAF will still allow the ecu to do a good job of matching fuel to air. add headers, an exhaust & an intake & even a cam & it will still run pretty well as far as A/F ratio. the maf sensor sees more air, it adds fuel to compensate. on the other hand with a speed density setup the same changes that would alter the VE of the engine can really make it run like crap & will require retuning, the ecu running speed density is blind to the additional air entering the engine & can sometimes be even more misled by stuff like cam changes for example, it will see the decreased vacuum as add'l load & start to dump more fuel where more is not needed & will not know there is more air entering the engine at higher rpms either, the tables it refers to that tell it how much fuel to add will need to be altered accordingly....

in the end think of a maf setup as having eyes where a speed density setup is blind. speed density is only switched to when maf is at the point of being restrictive or no longer acurate, which is often the case when FI is thrown into the mix, a properly tuned speed density setup though can only hope to rival a properly set up maf setup if the maf can really stay acurate & not be restrictive...

---------- Post added at 02:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:51 AM ----------

He also mentioned placing the BOV "as close to the turbo as possible" though I remember John mentioning at least 12 inches from the turbo, I think...


not I... I'd agree & say close as practical to prevent surge... although anywhere between the turbo & the intercooler will still do the job well really I think. it will still intercept & vent the reverse wave from the closed throttle body
 
And yet some of us are, including the guy who started this thread. :wink:



Me too - bring it on!



Totally agree, but I sometimes think a lot of guys lose the forest through the trees. In my case, I really think I have moderate goals. A lot of the details we are discussing are overkill IMO, but at least I have the ability to make an educated decision. For me there is a value point and it lies somewhere between a good setup and a great setup. I purposefully decide to exclude a nice feature because of the expense in some cases. I drew the line at a single scroll turbo over a twin scroll, as an example. It might be nice to have twin scroll, but makes fabrication a bit more complicated. At my power goals, I don't think the efficiency advantage is worth the change in cost.


touche my friend, touche.


not I... I'd agree & say close as practical to prevent surge... although anywhere between the turbo & the intercooler will still do the job well really I think. it will still intercept & vent the reverse wave from the closed throttle body


Since the application at hand is running sans the MAF, I agree with John; go close to the TB approximately 8-12" on the cold side of the intercooler. But wait, are you still debating on adding an IC or not? Frank has made many valid points regarding the addition of an IC and would be foolish to skip this in your build, especially with regard to long-term reliability and stability.

You have a multitude of options with BOV's, but since you're contemplating going with the VTA, check out the manufacturer's sites for their sample sounds. The HKS SSQV can sound "chirpy" where as the Greddy can sound like a sneeze. There's a wide range of sounds ranging from high pitched to a loud "pushing" noise; it depends on how much attention you want to bring to yourself. Also note that the amount of boost pressure you run will amplify the volume of the BOV noise as well.

Another tip; add in an oil catch can to catch all the oil blow-by you'll get with the turbo set up. It will happen, so having a catch can will reduce the amount of oil you have to clean every time you do an oil change.
 
touche my friend, touche.

Since the application at hand is running sans the MAF, I agree with John; go close to the TB approximately 8-12" on the cold side of the intercooler. But wait, are you still debating on adding an IC or not? Frank has made many valid points regarding the addition of an IC and would be foolish to skip this in your build, especially with regard to long-term reliability and stability.

Absolutely will do an intercooler. Just debating if I will add water/meth later on just for fun. I discussed setting up the Haltec to run "hardwired" maps for running water/meth vs staying strictly IC. Future mod most likely - not part of my initial set-up & tune.

You have a multitude of options with BOV's, but since you're contemplating going with the VTA, check out the manufacturer's sites for their sample sounds. The HKS SSQV can sound "chirpy" where as the Greddy can sound like a sneeze. There's a wide range of sounds ranging from high pitched to a loud "pushing" noise; it depends on how much attention you want to bring to yourself. Also note that the amount of boost pressure you run will amplify the volume of the BOV noise as well.

Everything I'm looking at - wastegate, BOV & turbo housing are all Tial. These are the brands I need to hear and have found some sound clips, but really need to hear it in person. The installer offered to have a couple of his past clients come in to show me their cars and let me hear similarly sized applications. I plan to take him up on that before buying anything.

Another tip; add in an oil catch can to catch all the oil blow-by you'll get with the turbo set up. It will happen, so having a catch can will reduce the amount of oil you have to clean every time you do an oil change.

Great idea - already done!

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Everything I'm looking at - wastegate, BOV & turbo housing are all Tial.

:tup::tup: you looking at the complete tial turbo or the garrett turbo with tial exhaust housing?


also, an FYI, someone makes a blow off valve that recirculates under part throttle & around town driving but does an outside dump when your really on it... kinda the best of both worlds, but it's not tial, I'll look it up later. also, another FYI, you could actually use 2 BOV's, one recirc & one vented, then use a solinoid to switch between the 2 so you can have stelth mode & show-off mode at the flip of a switch...
 
3076R Garrett with Tial exhaust housing.
View attachment 200195
MVS 38mm wastegate (mine will be black annodized, not blue)
View attachment 200197
View attachment 200199
Q series 50mm BOV (mine will be black)
View attachment 200202
View attachment 200204

Installer specifically stated, "The turbo (in this case i'm suggesting a 3076R with tial upgrades in a .63 hot side) will be slightly undersized for the displacement of the motor, but it will be very happy in the midrange and have very responsive habits. It will start to choke up top because of the .63 back housing, so it should fit your bill of hole shot and mid-range. In the future if you decide top end is getting more appealing, thats only a swap to a .82 or 1.06 back housing away"
 
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3076R Garrett with Tial exhaust housing.

MVS 38mm wastegate

Q series BOV

Installer specifically stated, "The turbo (in this case i'm suggesting a 3076R with tial upgrades in a .63 hot side) will be slightly undersized for the displacement of the motor, but it will be very happy in the midrange and have very responsive habits. It will start to choke up top because of the .63 back housing, so it should fit your bill of hole shot and mid-range. In the future if you decide top end is getting more appealing, thats only a swap to a .82 or 1.06 back housing away"


makes sense, I choose slightly larger equivelent with .82 housings to bring the torque on a bit later & a bit more gradual & not choke on the top end. keep in mind that the tial SS exhaust housing is going to help the turbo's spool up that much quicker, & the BB center section will also help with easy & quick spooling, so all said & done I'm not expecting it to be laggy at all even with the larger turbo's. this should also go a long way to help avoid overstressing the drivetrain too, but then again my power goals are a bit higher than yours too & I'll be reving ~1k rpm more than you too, so for your setup a bit smaller makes more sense... honestly though even with gt30 turbo's I think I'd go with the .82 housings off the bat, will cost you ~$400 + all the labor later, & really I don't think you'd be giving up all that much on the bottom end because of the ss & bb deal... plus at that point your in about the center of the range, so you'd have the option of fine tuning later by going either up or down in the A/R, where with the .63 you have no where to go but up, & it would suck to have to do it more than once if lets say you first go to .82 & then later decide to try the 1.06...

---------- Post added at 04:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------

Thats too kool!


def doing this on mine, if only adding the bosses now with block off plates while building the piping & then adding the second BOV to atmosphere later. not a bad idea to build into the piping while it's being built :biggrin:
 
Appreciate the input on the housing size. Will talk about that again before pulling the trigger.

Think I'll stick with the single BOV, lol. The bare minimum is hard enough to justify to my wife!!! If the sound of the BOV doesn't jive with my wish to keep certain luxury aesthetics, I'll go straight recirc. I have a feeling it might be fine to leave it venting to atmosphere because I'm just not going to be that aggressive so often that it will get old. As a starting point we're going to leave it open.

Finally getting into details! Model numbers and sizing finally taking shape.

Walboro 150 fuel pump
OEM GTR fuel injectors
Haltec EMS
-add Wideband
-add IAT
-add boost control
Tial MVS 38mm wastegate
Tial Q Series 50mm BOV
Garrett 3076R turbo
Tial .63 SS turbo exhaust housing (maybe .82)
intercooler
custom ceramic coated piping all around
V-bands on hot side
silicone couplers & clamps on cold side
heat shielding

The general position of the turbo will go where my Stillen CAI is currently.

Downpipe will be routed beside the engine on the driver side to a Y-pipe feeding each cat.

Need to look at possibly removing the front engine tie brace as well as re-routing one coolant hose to keep it away from the turbo.

BOV and wastegate placement will be using a Y on a bend for good flow. Plenty of room to work with in the FX engine bay. I'll have to work up some new sketches.
 
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I would suggest the .82, it won't cost you anything in the midrange and I think you'll be much happier on the top end. As turbocad stated, it's not that cheap to swap housings. When I had a VQ30, I had a .82, and it hit full boost around 4500 rpm, but it began spooling at 2500, this was on a bigger T04S turbo as well. So with the extra .5L displacement and the weight of the car, the FX should have no trouble spooling a .82. It won't be laggy which I assume is your fear.

3076R Garrett with Tial exhaust housing.

MVS 38mm wastegate

Q series BOV

Installer specifically stated, "The turbo (in this case i'm suggesting a 3076R with tial upgrades in a .63 hot side) will be slightly undersized for the displacement of the motor, but it will be very happy in the midrange and have very responsive habits. It will start to choke up top because of the .63 back housing, so it should fit your bill of hole shot and mid-range. In the future if you decide top end is getting more appealing, thats only a swap to a .82 or 1.06 back housing away"
 
You guys convinced me - I've made the change to the .82.

With the list I posted, considering there is still plenty of custom piping to knock out, installation of the fuel, EMS & IC systems, tune... what would you expect to pay for a solid build? I have a quote and feel that it is fair but want to know what you think would be a good price, a fair price and what approaches overcharging?
 
to really guess at a price without more info would be difficult, you've got to list the scope of work a bit more & list a total parts cost. for example is he pulling the drivetrain out & building all the piping to hug & curve along the drivetrain or does he think he's going to be able to work from top & bottom without pulling the drivetrain? is the crossover from right to left going to be from in front of or behind the motor? is he doing everything including R&I the front bumper & mounting the intercooler too?, installing & tuning the haltech everything turn key? with more details you can have a much better idea on price. I'm sure, like anything else, theres an easy way & a hard way to do something. taking the easy way where possible can def keep costs down. price is going to be heavily based on the actual scope of work. without knowing more details I'd have to guess anywhere from ~$6,500 to $14,800 give or take a few grand :biggrin:

---------- Post added at 01:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:29 AM ----------

also, on the fuel system, what's the plan there? just the walbro to the stock lines & rails, or a return system? if return, boost regulated return? if so, what is he going to use as the return? cheap & easy is to use the evap line, better is to run a new line. where ever he goes cheap & easy will keep costs down.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but what the hell is this? And why would you use this over a Walbro 255?

Unless numbers just got mixed up and it's really a Walbro 255lph fuel pump but something says "F-150" on it or something?

$150 was the price for the Walbro 255. Was looking at the Bosch 044, but that won't fit in the stock bucket.

to really guess at a price without more info would be difficult, you've got to list the scope of work a bit more & list a total parts cost. for example is he pulling the drivetrain out & building all the piping to hug & curve along the drivetrain or does he think he's going to be able to work from top & bottom without pulling the drivetrain? is the crossover from right to left going to be from in front of or behind the motor? is he doing everything including R&I the front bumper & mounting the intercooler too?, installing & tuning the haltech everything turn key? with more details you can have a much better idea on price. I'm sure, like anything else, theres an easy way & a hard way to do something. taking the easy way where possible can def keep costs down. price is going to be heavily based on the actual scope of work. without knowing more details I'd have to guess anywhere from ~$6,500 to $14,800 give or take a few grand :biggrin:

- Not pulling the drivetrain.
- Crossover is in front of the engine, up-pipe to Stillen CAI location
- Downpipe beside the engine on the driver side
- Y to the cats behind the engine
- Installing the Haltec turnkey

also, on the fuel system, what's the plan there? just the walbro to the stock lines & rails, or a return system? if return, boost regulated return? if so, what is he going to use as the return? cheap & easy is to use the evap line, better is to run a new line. where ever he goes cheap & easy will keep costs down.

- Walbro 255
- GTR Fuel injectors (found them for $400)
- No fuel return system - maybe a future upgrade along with water/meth. But that comes AFTER wheels and coil-overs...

Glad to say the quote I have falls inside your expected range! lol. The quote is based on the installer buying the parts, so I am now looking to get better pricing than he quoted. I'll just provide those parts which I can find through a buddy with industry connections. Same guy I went through for the Stoptech BBK.
 
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