Jl Audio

Tchuck I agree
"it's gonna all boil down to tune'in :-)"

But there are Four things can affect the perceived directionality of bass frequencies. #1 Crossover frequency. The higher the crossover frequency the more directional bass is perceived. 80 Hz is considered the cut off point for most people. Most people can not discern the direction of bass below 80 Hz. #2 The volume of the sub-woofer. If the sub is extremely loud it will not blend in with the rest of the speakers and therefore will have a perceived direction. #3 Individual perception. Some people are simply more sensitive to bass direction than others. #4 Placement. Placement of the sub can affect the perception of direction. Placing the sub in a corner gives an artificial boost to bass frequencies and if especially in a rear corner can give extra location cues to low frequencies.
 
talibmohamid said:
Tchuck I agree
"it's gonna all boil down to tune'in :-)"

But there are Four things can affect the perceived directionality of bass frequencies. #1 Crossover frequency. The higher the crossover frequency the more directional bass is perceived. 80 Hz is considered the cut off point for most people. Most people can not discern the direction of bass below 80 Hz. #2 The volume of the sub-woofer. If the sub is extremely loud it will not blend in with the rest of the speakers and therefore will have a perceived direction. #3 Individual perception. Some people are simply more sensitive to bass direction than others. #4 Placement. Placement of the sub can affect the perception of direction. Placing the sub in a corner gives an artificial boost to bass frequencies and if especially in a rear corner can give extra location cues to low frequencies.
Click to expand...

Agreed. A good tune really can compensate for pretty much anything assuming you are using decent equipment (which you are). As far as the rest...

Frequencies above 80Hz (above 60Hz really) should be handled by mid-bass speakers, which are sold in pairs (stereo) to account for perceived directionality. JL makes mid-bass drivers with a lower limit of 50Hz for exactly that reason. Another reason for mid bass drivers is that large speakers are less capable of accurately reproducing higher frequencies. The idea here is even frequency response across the dynamic range of your music. Also, listening position is equally important as sub placement. In fact, the two are completely dependent upon each other.

#1 A subs crossover frequency should be dictated by the frequency response of the drivers.
#2 The volume should be adjusted (to taste) relative to the rest of your speakers after the EQ is adjusted.
#3 You can only account for your own personal perception. Using a microphone placed in your listening position will tell you when your bass output is even across all frequencies, which is what you want.
#4 Placing a sub in the corner does not give an "artificial boost", it reduces standing waves. Standing waves reduce perceived output and create "holes" in your sound.
 
(2) JL Audio 10W3V3's

The Thermal Power Handling of those subs is 500 Watts a piece...... and according to JL Audio the recommended continuous (RMS) power rating is around 300 Watts a piece...I'm sure you could give them a lil more power but i wouldn't push it to far or else u gonna be burning subs up etc.

As for that alpine amp u are thinkin about gettin..... Bro thats not gonna cut it....trust me. Maybe if run one of those subs and that depends on the ohm loads of the pair and all that. If I were you I would read into JL's different lines....from my deals with JL...I would run the 500/1v2 or one of the very new 750/1 HD amps......these amp are monsters and it would power that pair of speakers.....no problem.... (750/1 HD amp - 750 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm - 4 ohm (11V-14.5V) and (500/1 - Rated Power: 500 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm - 4 ohm (11V-14.5V) These amps have regulated power supplies and does the same power output in no mater the vehicle battery as long as it is atleast 11v......and it should be way higher than that anyway, if not u wanna check ur battery/alternator setup.....and the ohm loads don't really matter....as long at the load created between the 2 subs is atleast 1.5 ohms all the way up to 4 ohms u will be ok...... honestly I would have gotten one if had to buy it......my brother gave me the alpine HD amp I have and its comparable but I think the JL may be a tad bit better.

AMP SPECS u Were Lookin at......If u go with a alpine amp u need to get one like i have in my opinion.

  • Alpine MRP-M500

    RMS Power Rating:
    • 4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
    • 2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
    • You could rock with one of these on each sub but I wouldnt attempt a pair I think you would be under powering.....if you have to underpower or overpower and neither should be done....ur better off overpowering!!!
  • PS: When U Look at the equipment u wanna get try to match the power ratings and things up and you can't go wrong bro. Don't let those big numbers they print deture u from the RMS power ratings.....know what I mean. JL has several amps that will accomodate that pair of subs you are lookin at...I just spoke on the ones that I have used / heard or owned. So read on there site.....heck if you have time give them a call jus to see what they may say but Im pretty sure that they will prob mention the ones i said and I just glanced at there page....they have a whole slew of new amps that make good power....check them out.... remember you want a amp that will give that pair of subs atleast 600watts RMS to, i would say 650watts RMS......thats my 3 CENT man...good luck on this setup bro (U have it under control)
 
Yes surrrr

THATS THE ONE.....AN ITS A SMALL AMP......BUT ITS GOT ALOTTA BALLS MAN........an the advantage to the amp is if you wanna change subs later,,,,,,u can still use that amp....U could run a single 12w7 off of that thing.....:tup:
 
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