The amplifier is bridged to 600W, but the gain is dialed back, so I doubt I ever hit peak power.
Installer picked the wire and I didn't ask what brands. It looks like the gauges of the wires are appropriate.
Jumbo bass
- Thread starter jumbosrule
- Start date
The amplifier is bridged to 600W, but the gain is dialed back, so I doubt I ever hit peak power.
Installer picked the wire and I didn't ask what brands. It looks like the gauges of the wires are appropriate.
- Location
- Stuart, FL
o ok all sounds kool just seeing if anybody is close to what im hittin
I think Lebron23 has you beat: 2 12" push more air than 1 15" and he's running 1000wtts into each.
///774
Always depends on the build....
///774
Always depends on the build....
- Location
- Dallas, TX
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
Well, if we are bringing up former members, look at PhantomFX. And if he's on here, imotionFX had a really nice system.
oh yeah - imotion was "pimp my ride" style audio. Crazy - but it looked good.
I was trying to remember who had those REALLY nice systems...but Im getting old...lol
- Location
- Stuart, FL
Ya id be close but i dunno if you know how amps are rated but they are usually underrated i have a print out that came in the box with my amp that says it was tested and puts out over 1500 watts to a 2000+ watt sub and a 3 farad power cap to top it off with extra power. Also just b/c he has a 1000 watts to each sub doesnt mean that the subs are rated at 1000 watts, but i dunno im just sayin my system beats harder lol
3F cap does nothing for power. It is a storage device used to help/bandaid a weak electrical system. Doing a "Big Three" upgrade will do better for you than a 3F capacitor.
A Solarbaric 15 L7 is a very good speaker. But is rated for 1000wtts rms. 2000wtts max, and is only for EXTREMELY short play...ie Burps at a SPL competition or just for bragging rights to say.."Hey I gots me a 2000wtt sub!"
Lebron23 has 2 Eclipse subs that handle 500wtt rms, 1500wtts max. So I guess by your logic he can say he's got 2 1500wtt subs!
Again, everything is in the build. It is how well your box is built (no prefab), how you tune your box to your application, and how it uses that power effeciently. I've seen 1 10" sub KILL a pair of 15's. Amazing what people know how to do with sound.
caraudio.com has great info on all this stuff.
And sorry Jumbo, I didn't mean to go off topic. I like the way yours is setup. I hate seeing big boxes in the back of cars where your not able to put anything back there. I mean, you get an SUV for a reason, not to just throw the biggest box you can in there do you? It is alot harder to do what you did than to do what TKO did. Anyone can put a big box in the back of their cars and get big bass....its another thing to get good/great bass and still keep the functunality of your car.
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- Location
- Stuart, FL
Ya your right about the box thats why i was sure to have mine computer tuned when i had it custom made/ It all depends on what you want your system to do. Your math is wrong though a 500 watt sub rms would be 1000 watts sub, much like a 1000 watt rms is a 2000 watt sub.
---------- Post added at 11:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:53 AM ----------
Just not a fun of eclipse also for me its either Kicker or JL
---------- Post added at 11:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:53 AM ----------
Just not a fun of eclipse also for me its either Kicker or JL
- Location
- Dallas, TX
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
I heard that either using watts or amps, one of the two, is actually completely wrong. Basically people say they have a high amount of watts/amps when in reality that much power would blow the speaker. I'm not 100% sure on it, but my physics teacher last year told me about this. Of course, people are used to the way everything is rated now, so they won't change it. I wish I could remember exactly what he said.
- Location
- Stuart, FL
Ya thats like what i was saying a lil bit higher up on the thread about them underrating the amps so they dont overdue them. My 1000 watt Kicker Amp is actual more like a 1500 watt
I'm glad you had yours custom made...makes a big difference.
Different manufactures rate subs differently.
Alpine Type R 15" Rms 750wtt Max 2000wtt
Eclipse SW6200 Rms 500wtt Max 1500wtt
Infinity Perfect 10"DVQ Rms 400wtt Max 1600wtt
Different manufactures rate subs differently.
Alpine Type R 15" Rms 750wtt Max 2000wtt
Eclipse SW6200 Rms 500wtt Max 1500wtt
Infinity Perfect 10"DVQ Rms 400wtt Max 1600wtt
- Location
- Stuart, FL
O ok ive only had Kicker and JL i guess they do theirs the same
- Location
- brooklyn, ny
in the end watts rating on most amps is total BS & no measure of anything really. I've seen cars with 250watts rms total system power that would totally kill what some would call "systems" with 10 times the power stamped on the amps... 2 10's 2 8's in the doors & 2 horns under the dash, that's it, total system. sit in the drivers seat for just 10 minutes & your whole outlook on car audio would change completely...
watts is for bench racers
...
watts is for bench racers
...- Location
- Stuart, FL
very true turbo
LANTOSFX45
Member
- Location
- canada
- Name
- Johnny
JL make a way better product. and by the way watts dont mean anything its the amps.. and for spl or sound quality its all in the box you can have the most expensive equipment with it saying 2000 watts or whatever that dont mean nothing unless you have a proper box.
- Location
- Stuart, FL
Ya thats what we said lol above. Thats why i really like my system it has a ton of power a computer tuned box, the best wiring set up, and its amazingly clean for a 15'
Everyone has there opinions on which is better. I have no problem with JL or Kicker. The new breeds like Sundown, Helix, Incriminator Audio, DLS have gone way beyond what the "Big" boys can do. Smaller companies going out and hand building everything , installing better components, resulting in better sound quality and performance.
- Location
- Stuart, FL
Thats very true its alot easier to put quality into low production equipment its too bad pretty much everything is that way now lol
After getting my FX back a couple days ago I needed to reinstall the Epicenter and JL Amplifier. I wanted to clean up the install so first I laid down some black project carpet over the dynamat. While the car was at the shop I had the guys wire a positive and negative 4AWG wire directly from the battery terminals. I also switched over to a Optima Yellow top battery.
The positive 4AWG wire has an inline fuse at the battery. This evening I wired both positive and negative wires to distribution blocks in the spare tire well. Here are the distribution blocks and the Epicenter mounted to a project board, also covered with the carpet. Using the bolt hole that was the center of the spare tire, I made a clamp to hold down the project board. I'm using the subwoofer signal wire (spliced to RCA cables into the Epicenter) and the 12V trigger wire (blue wire) from the original Bose system.
The three wires hanging over the sub are routed to the amplifier along with a 12V trigger wire (spliced to the blue wire) and the output from the Epicenter. Here is the amp/sub with custom floor installed. My modifications to the original install removed the shelving of MDF that was used. I probably removed about 20 lbs of structure and added only the project board.
And of course I still have my original floor modified to cover the amp and sub while still being able to use them.
So glad to have my bass back! I've loved having the car for the past four days but with the sub back in action the interior is so much more enjoyable! I really missed this car.
The positive 4AWG wire has an inline fuse at the battery. This evening I wired both positive and negative wires to distribution blocks in the spare tire well. Here are the distribution blocks and the Epicenter mounted to a project board, also covered with the carpet. Using the bolt hole that was the center of the spare tire, I made a clamp to hold down the project board. I'm using the subwoofer signal wire (spliced to RCA cables into the Epicenter) and the 12V trigger wire (blue wire) from the original Bose system.
The three wires hanging over the sub are routed to the amplifier along with a 12V trigger wire (spliced to the blue wire) and the output from the Epicenter. Here is the amp/sub with custom floor installed. My modifications to the original install removed the shelving of MDF that was used. I probably removed about 20 lbs of structure and added only the project board.
And of course I still have my original floor modified to cover the amp and sub while still being able to use them.
So glad to have my bass back! I've loved having the car for the past four days but with the sub back in action the interior is so much more enjoyable! I really missed this car.
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