Help Needed, Installed Spacers & Major Vibration 40+ MPH!

[M.J.H.]

I actually had a spare set of Ichiba V2 spacers (15mm front / 20mm rear) that I had for my previous 2006 Infiniti G35 coupe. I had them installed today and before the install obviously no vibration in the steering wheel however now after 40 MPH the steering wheel starts wobbling and then after 50 MPH it REALLY starts wobbling.

I'm not sure how/why this happened I asked my buddy if everything went well with the install he said everything bolted right up no problem at all. In my previous 3 vehicles with spacers I've just installed them and drove the car - I've never had this issue in the past and always used the Ichiba V2 spacers (extended lug style).

My mechanic said to jack up the car tonight and check but front spacers and make sure the hubcentric rings are sitting correctly?

Any other advice/experience with the spacers?

Here is link to the V2 spacers:

http://www.ichibausa.com/whspveii.html

And compared the specs on the G35 coupe and FX35 spacers and they're exactly the same:

Bolt Pattern: 5/114.3
Center Bore: 66.2
Thread: 12x1.25

Bolt Pattern: 5/114.3
Center Bore: 66.2
Thread: 12x1.25

Help please!

 

[turbocad6]

stock wheels? the 15mm spacer is NOT thick enough & your wheel studs are stopping the wheel from sitting flat on the hub. don't drive it like this, dangerous... you either need to cut the studs or change to the "replace the studs" type to stay at 15mm

I believe that even the 20mm still contact the studs slightly before the wheel will seat, must either cut the studs or machine recesses into the wheels for the studs, having the wheel sit on the 5 studs alone is not good at all...

 

[theMerchant]

stock wheels? the 15mm spacer is NOT thick enough & your wheel studs are stopping the wheel from sitting flat on the hub. don't drive it like this, dangerous... you either need to cut the studs or change to the "replace the studs" type to stay at 15mm

I believe that even the 20mm still contact the studs slightly before the wheel will seat, must either cut the studs or machine recesses into the wheels for the studs, having the wheel sit on the 5 studs alone is not good at all...

he has the "Ichiba V2 spacers (extended lug style)" . The stock lugs fit behind the stock wheel nicely (recessed)

have them double check the hub centric ring like you said... Hopefully they didnt overtightened or didnt tighten the lugs in a star pattern.

 

[gchristopher9]

he has the "Ichiba V2 spacers (extended lug style)" . The stock lugs fit behind the stock wheel nicely (recessed)

have them double check the hub centric ring like you said... Hopefully they didnt overtightened or didnt tighten the lugs in a star pattern.

thats the problem though is that they DONT fit behind the stock wheel nicely. The factory studs are a little to long, and when you put the wheel on, it bottoms out against the tops of the factory studs, NOT on the face of the spacer

 

[EG3]

I believe that even the 20mm still contact the studs slightly before the wheel will seat, must either cut the studs or machine recesses into the wheels for the studs

That's right.

he has the "Ichiba V2 spacers (extended lug style)" . The stock lugs fit behind the stock wheel nicely (recessed)

That's absolutely not right

thats the problem though is that they DONT fit behind the stock wheel nicely.

That's right as well..

I have BOTH 15mm and 20mm Ichiba V2 spacers. They DON'T fit inside the groove behind the stock 20 inchers even with 20mm ones. ONLY 25mm fits.. For them to fit both require OEM studs to be cut. About 6-7mm in 15mm spacer case and about 2-3mm in 20mm case.

 

[turbocad6]

driving it the way it is is dangerous at higher speeds, the studs are not designed for that type of load, violent vibrations at speed with it the way it is can break studs & loose a wheel...

 

[theMerchant]

weird. I had 20mm spacers on (stock 20" wheels) for a few months, even went to the track and had no problems.
I agree with 15mm, but 20mm... maybe you can just get new studs installed from the hub.

 

[M.J.H.]

I'm confused what the hell do you use to cut the OEM studs I've never even heard of doing this? Is there something that can be used? And I should mess with the rear spacers even if the 20mm rear spacers are on perfectly? I don't think the vibration is coming from the rear whatsoever, at least from what I can tell.

 

[turbocad6]

not saying that cutting the studs is the "correct" solution, after there cut there useless for anything but mounting the spacers, you can't put the wheels back on without the spacers anymore cause they'll now be too short, it's not the correct solution but it is a solution to at least make it safe to drive as it sits... cutting the studs though you are ruining them & that's a band-aid approach at best unless you always plan to run the spacers, which at that point the other type of spacers that replace the studs with longer ones are better anyway...

you can cut the tips with a cut off wheel or a grinder even...

as far as the rears, yes, def. check them. if the wheel is touching the studs before it flattens & compresses on the hub it is not safe at all, pull a wheel & look at what I'm talking about... you can use a little grease at the tip of the studs & at the mounting flat to see whats contacting where if your not sure.. you can also feel it when putting the wheel on, if the wheel is hitting the flat mounting surface then the wheel will feel stable & flat & well located when slid all the way in, if it feels like it can rock back & forth with no positive flat stopping point then it's hitting the studs...

this is not a place to play around... loosing a wheel is never fun... even if the rears don't appear to give you any issues, it is already documented that at 20mm there is still interference, check them...

 

[M.J.H.]

not saying that cutting the studs is the "correct" solution, after there cut there useless for anything but mounting the spacers, you can't put the wheels back on without the spacers anymore cause they'll now be too short, it's not the correct solution but it is a solution to at least make it safe to drive as it sits... cutting the studs though you are ruining them & that's a band-aid approach at best unless you always plan to run the spacers, which at that point the other type of spacers that replace the studs with longer ones are better anyway...

you can cut the tips with a cut off wheel or a grinder even...

as far as the rears, yes, def. check them. if the wheel is touching the studs before it flattens & compresses on the hub it is not safe at all, pull a wheel & look at what I'm talking about... you can use a little grease at the tip of the studs & at the mounting flat to see whats contacting where if your not sure.. you can also feel it when putting the wheel on, if the wheel is hitting the flat mounting surface then the wheel will feel stable & flat & well located when slid all the way in, if it feels like it can rock back & forth with no positive flat stopping point then it's hitting the studs...

this is not a place to play around... loosing a wheel is never fun... even if the rears don't appear to give you any issues, it is already documented that at 20mm there is still interference, check them...

I'm sorry for my ignorance but honestly I serached and searched and searched for this before putting them on and I read everywhere that 20mm all around was the best bet so I figured 15mm would have been fine now this is my ignorance but a 20mm rear spacer does not fit at all?

And the spacers being on the vehicle for the life of the vehicle is definitely not an issue whatsoever I had them on my G35 for a year and when I sold the vehicle.

 

[EG3]

I say sell the spacers and get 15 or 20mm Ichiba V1 types. I initially wanted these so that I could switch back & forth easily but it caused me more trouble (ie, cut studs) and more vibration (I think). I ordered 2 sets of 15mm spacers now and both V2 will be on sale. I recommend you do the same..

With the 20mm spacers, the studs only needed to be cut 2-3 mm more. With 15mm ones, it was 6-7 mm (per TurboCad. He did the install).

Go with standard style spacers, be happy be safe.. That's my .02

 

[turbocad6]

dude, before I did ege's spacers I was just as ignorant so don't feel too bad. I seen guys all the time talk about 15mm spacers, 20 & 25, I thought nothing of it. everything suggested that it should just work. then I did EG3's brakes & installed the 15mm spacers & noticed the problem, I was as surprised as you are. I never researched spacers much because I never considered running them on my car.

if your sure you want to stick with that spacer setup & have no concerns about swapping wheels & stuff then just cut the studs or have them done for you, easiest solution & not the worse thing, if you later went to the other type spacer you'd be replacing the studs again anyway so no huge problem. of course going back to stock would also require replacing the studs & of course swapping to the thru the hub long stud style is the best way to go if you must use spacers...

 

[LaxmaN]

I have 25mm Ichiba V2 spacers all around with no issues 11,000 miles and counting. They are bolt on. no modifications needed.

 

[turbocad6]

25's are the minimum to clear the studs with no issues...

 

[EG3]

25's are the minimum to clear the studs with no issues...

yup.. learned it the hard way.. :frown:

 

[M.J.H.]

Had my technician grind down the OEM studs just a tad said hardly changed a thing and the vibration is now virtually GONE! I absolutely love how the 15mm front and 20mm rear look! Nice staggered setup:



Looks pretty damn aggressive from the direct rear, lol: