GTSPEC Rear Lateral / Rear Lower Tie Brace

fxlr8

fxlr8

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Administrator
This is just a basic write-up, not going into full detail. Just enough detail to do the job. :top:

Time: 25-35 minutes

Tools:
17mm socket
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench ft/lbs
Marker
Ramps or Jack Stands (Never get under a raised car without proper safety precautions in place)

1. 4 Nuts are going to be removed. You will need a 17mm socket and a breaker bar. Look at which 4 nuts below:
7-2.jpg

2. Mark the washers below the nuts before removing them, just to make sure they do not move when doing this mod.
4-3.jpg

3. Remove the nuts with the 17mm socket and breaker bar.

4. Place the bars on and tighten the nuts to the following ft/lbs:
  • 48 ft/lbs for the upper
  • 74 ft/lbs for the lower
RearTorque.jpg

5. Check the marks you made, do they still align (they probably do...they won't move)
2-8.jpg


You are done!!!! :top:
7-2.jpg

This super basic super fastilicious write up has been brought to you by your friends at www.InfinitiScene.com :iS: ​
 

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I still didn't mount them on but it looks like the longer one (lateral?) won't fit my APS.
Just a quick question: Do you have to mark the bolts on the smaller brace? Are these bolts used for alignment as well?
 
Yeah, you can mark the other side not this side if that makes it easier. The other side the the bolt washer combo that set the adjustment. There's not much play on the washer nut side.
 
good write up thanks, especially the torque specs.

I confirm that my washers did not move, so this should be a simple bolt-on install for most.

I like to spray a little wd-40 to loosen the bolt before I take it off and I used white out as my marker.
 
Is this whats being sold on the GT SPEC Group Buy. I have a 45 AWD, and you have 35 AWD, Im assuming that this works for you? Also, did you remove your sway bar? Last question. Im getting springs/struts/shocks installed, is this something I should do then because of the alignment. Thanks
 
Last edited:
Toncruse said:
Is this whats being sold on the GT SPEC Group Buy. I have a 45 AWD, and you have 35 AWD, Im assuming that this works for you? Also, did you remove your sway bar? Last question. Im getting springs/struts/shocks installed, is this something I should do then because of the alignment. Thanks
Click to expand...

Fits FX45 AWD and FX35 AWD and FX35 RWD. I have a FX45 AWD.

No, you do not need to remove the sway bar. No need to unless for some reason you want to.

You do not need an alignment when you install GT SPEC braces. Just make sure if you do install a bar that might move the currently alignment, mark it as mentioned in this thread.

Do not get alignment right away after you get your springs/struts/shocks installed. You should wait about 1-2 months for everything to settle, but it's up to you.
 
Chedman13 said:
Fits FX45 AWD and FX35 AWD and FX35 RWD. I have a FX45 AWD.

No, you do not need to remove the sway bar. No need to unless for some reason you want to.

You do not need an alignment when you install GT SPEC braces. Just make sure if you do install a bar that might move the currently alignment, mark it as mentioned in this thread.

Do not get alignment right away after you get your springs/struts/shocks installed. You should wait about 1-2 months for everything to settle, but it's up to you.
Click to expand...


Thanks,
 
Chedman13 said:
Fits FX45 AWD and FX35 AWD and FX35 RWD. I have a FX45 AWD.

No, you do not need to remove the sway bar. No need to unless for some reason you want to.

You do not need an alignment when you install GT SPEC braces. Just make sure if you do install a bar that might move the currently alignment, mark it as mentioned in this thread.

Do not get alignment right away after you get your springs/struts/shocks installed. You should wait about 1-2 months for everything to settle, but it's up to you.
Click to expand...

1-2 months? It really settles in normal driving of just a day or 2 at most - usually in a couple hundred miles of driving
 
hmmm, i still haven't gotten an alignment :embarrassed: but i don't see a need for one. springs have been on almost 6 months, and rear tire wear looks fine to me. the steering wheel isn't straight though, i have to steer a tad left to go straight, but not enough to bother me. i don't think i even noticed it immideatley after the install.
 
Z1Performance said:
1-2 months? It really settles in normal driving of just a day or 2 at most - usually in a couple hundred miles of driving
Click to expand...

The weight of the V8 in my FX45, the front settled noticeably lower in 1-2 months. More evident in FX45's, the FX35's didn't experience this.
 
then that's an indication that you have less than acceptable springs to be honest - a spring should never settle if its been wound to proper specs. Unfortunately this is very common with H&R springs on many different cars - one of the reasons I tend to personally shy away from them on my own vehicles. Other spring manufacturers experience this too, it's not unique to H&R, but H&R's are particularly known for it. Some people are ok with it as H&R tends to also have among the lowest drops out there. What does tend to settle are the rubber mounts which usually retain their previous shape once the car has some miles put back on it (happens quite quickly)
 
H&Rs are not the lowest on the FX, & Eibachs settle too, just slightly. Dont think it's the mounts though, cuz I dont think anyone uses those. Most just do a spring swap only . . new stops dont even leave the box.
 
The upper spring mount is rubber, and gets removed and transfered to the spring/strut assembly. It is quite stiff, but decompresses when removed and takes a few days to settle back to its original position, once the car is driven a bit. has nothing to do with bump stops, that's a totally different thing
 
OK, clear now. Seems odd that would need correction time . . I mean, the mounts have been stuck in that position for hella long time. Doesnt make sense that they would have memory like that. I still think the springs themselves settle . . even if they come preloaded.
 
the rubber is compressible in the mount, it just takes the weight of the vehicle to make it happen - really works like any other rubber bushing would. The springs will drop ever so slightly in the first day or 2 under the weight of the car itself. Beyond that, if they continue to drop, you've got either a spring that is not all that terrific and/or struts that are not coping very well with the lowered drop.
 
Makes sense, which is what I experienced with eibachs, but the H&Rs as a whole seem to always take longer to settle. Anyone with those want to chime in?
 
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