
go to unichiptuner.com, then click chat now. he is the person that responds=)
Nice Ed....glad the maps work as advertised. Like to know how it is when u get a chance to open it up on the 91 or 93 maps. Want to do the same but I've yet to hear from Aaron also?
Andy...let me know if he responds to you and if he can do the same maps for
our 35's. We have pretty much the same mods so if you get a hold of him to do yours, I'll probably take a carbon copy of that...
Won't be a week or two, car back in the shop for more installs.:tonguey:
are those plugs one step colder?
edit: nevermind these are one step colder.
Amazon.com: NGK (6619) LFR6AIX-11 Iridium IX Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive
Geez...what are you doing now?? lol :eek.:
Won't be a week or two, car back in the shop for more installs.:tonguey:
Ed, what your car might not be ready for the Stealth Meet? No way.
Damien, I spoke with Aaron at Unichip. I ordered the the 5-Way Map switch like Ed got and an USB cable. Aaron said to call him once I got the cable. He said to download, install and run the free software, plug the cable to the Chip, call him and he can get into the PC/laptop that running the software and create maps directly onto the Chip. I bet if you ended up buying the Chip, switch and provide him of maps specs; I bet he'll make the maps directly onto the chip like how he did for Ed.
Ed, what your car might not be ready for the Stealth Meet? No way.
Damien, I spoke with Aaron at Unichip. I ordered the the 5-Way Map switch like Ed got and an USB cable. Aaron said to call him once I got the cable. He said to download, install and run the free software, plug the cable to the Chip, call him and he can get into the PC/laptop that running the software and create maps directly onto the Chip. I bet if you ended up buying the Chip, switch and provide him of maps specs; I bet he'll make the maps directly onto the chip like how he did for Ed.
Cool Andy,
Let me know once he does your maps for your 35...then I'm going to order and probably have him put the same maps on mine. Just wish we had 93 octane here
in Cali![]()
Yo Ed, I wanted to digress a bit and mention something about the alternate subwoofer location you and Andy were discussing. In short, I don't think you'll get good (or even decent really) results from putting the Bose woofers in the rear doors for two reasons. First, more than any other drivers, low frequency drivers (woofers) are sensitive to their enclosures. The oem Bose woofers are designed for the oem box, which is both a very specific size and ported. It would be ok if they were designed for a sealed enclosure (like the Kicker 6.5" woofers are) AND if you could air seal the doors, but they aren't and you can't. Second, there are speakers in the doors already, and if you install any woofer into what is essentially the same "box" (the door cavity) as the existing mid range door speaker you will create a fairly severe case of phase cancellation. By this I mean the woofer's movement will incur inverse reciprocation by the mid driver and vice-versa, decreasing the performance of both drastically. If you removed the existing driver and replaced it with a woofer you could avoid the second issue, but you'd still have the first.
The only way I'd consider this location is if you could build an air tight enclosure into the door for a woofer designed to operate in a sealed box. I wouldn't think it's impossible, but difficult to say the least. Especially if you want to retain the functionality of your rear windows...
How on earth are you getting 22mpg? Or even 18 for that matter? I have a 35 AWD and get ~14mpg if I'm lucky. 50/50 between city and highway.
Did the iridium plugs make that much of a difference? I got them for a previous car over 10 years ago when they first came out and they didn't make a huge difference in any way. Don't know if they changed something about them.
How on earth are you getting 22mpg? Or even 18 for that matter? I have a 35 AWD and get ~14mpg if I'm lucky. 50/50 between city and highway.
...
... I drive like a grandma as I have my baby with me 99% of the time....
I bet when he is driving he even looks like a grandma at times in order to squeeze out maximum MPG's.
Yo Ed, I wanted to digress a bit and mention something about the alternate subwoofer location you and Andy were discussing. In short, I don't think you'll get good (or even decent really) results from putting the Bose woofers in the rear doors for two reasons. First, more than any other drivers, low frequency drivers (woofers) are sensitive to their enclosures. The oem Bose woofers are designed for the oem box, which is both a very specific size and ported. It would be ok if they were designed for a sealed enclosure (like the Kicker 6.5" woofers are) AND if you could air seal the doors, but they aren't and you can't. Second, there are speakers in the doors already, and if you install any woofer into what is essentially the same "box" (the door cavity) as the existing mid range door speaker you will create a fairly severe case of phase cancellation. By this I mean the woofer's movement will incur inverse reciprocation by the mid driver and vice-versa, decreasing the performance of both drastically. If you removed the existing driver and replaced it with a woofer you could avoid the second issue, but you'd still have the first.
The only way I'd consider this location is if you could build an air tight enclosure into the door for a woofer designed to operate in a sealed box. I wouldn't think it's impossible, but difficult to say the least. Especially if you want to retain the functionality of your rear windows...
Tim brought up some very important points.
I remember when I did mine, I had long discussions with the installers on things that are possible and are not. One of them being the minimum size my one sub needed cubic square feet of air for it to perform appropriately. With all the angles and custom fiberglass fit they did, they measured it to be at least .75 cubic sq feet of space for the sealed box because my sub requires that as a minimum per specifications. My 10'' MTX is a strong sub with a large magnet. Every little inch matters when dealing with this stuff, can't just build something big enough that will fit the thing and rough estimate it if you want it to be done the right way. My setup was a big challenge because of the above, a few other items they were discussing, as well as, my requirements.