QX70 Upgraded OEM 6.5" Door Speakers

[mike661]

I just did a similar upgrade to my 2017 QX70 limited. Used the Cerwin Vega spare tire sub and tried the Infinity Reference speakers mentioned. I ended up pulling out the Infinity's in favor of the JBL Stadium series. Here's what I ended up with:

JBL GT0620 6.5 coaxial in rear door
JBL GT0600C component 6.5 in front door and 3/4" tweeter in the upper door trim (near mirrors)
JBL GT020 in the dash corners

I extended the corner dash wires to the door panels so I could mount the crossovers that came with the 600C and set it to 3-way mode to use the "Mid" output to then use the GTO20 crossover for the new dash mids.
-----------------------------------------3-way-crossover----->woofer-out----->not connected

---Dash-wire-extended--->3-way-crossover(in-door)------>mid-out-------->-GTO20-bandpass-filter/crossover--dash-GTO20

-----------------------------------------3-way-crossover----->tweeter-out---->upper-door-tweeter
What did I notice and why did I end up with this?
What:

• The Infinity Refs. were a little muddy in the low end and a tad too harsh in the highs, especially in the rear doors.
• The JBL's are a better built speaker that can reproduce the low end more accurately. The JBL tweeters are smoother on both the coaxial and the components.
• The JBL midrange is VERY detailed and is one of the rare speakers that can drop in where the corner dash drivers are. The screw holes don't fit but can be hot glued or held by the force of the speaker grill. The 6.5" drivers need the "7400" speaker adapter as the JBL's are quite deep. Most websites say they don't fit out cars but that's not true.

ATM, I'm using the factory amp which has the crossovers inside, rather than at the speakers like the 1st gen FX had.
The factory dash mid-range drivers are 3.5 ohm, the JBL 2" driver is 2.5" and noticeably louder. I temporarily threw on a 1ohm 10w resistor to mildly attenuate the JBL mids.
The CV sub fills in the missing lower octaves decently well, though not fully flat like the studio systems that I'm used to. 8-gauge wire MUST be run directly from the battery.

Why:
I'm a music mix engineer/studio owner (www.cleartrackstudios.com) and rely on my car for final QA before I send mixes and masters to the label or artist. I had a 2018 Q50 with the Bose Performance speaker that I just got rid of, which is objectively the most accurate audio system in any Infiniti car to date. My wife has a 2019 QX50 w/Bose P.series which is a tad less accurate than the Q50 w/Bose P.series.

The QX70 and any non Bose P.series speaker systems are sonically a mess and initially there was no way I could judge mixes without this massive speaker upgrade. Now I can confidently use the QX70 for listening purposes.

BTW, I don't believe in spending big on car stereos as you'll never reach professional accuracy, not to mention it's just a listening environment not a working environment: the noise floor is too high in a car, there is no sweet-spot in a car seat and there are too many speakers spread throughout the vehicle.

In the music industry the car test is supposed to be a "real-world simulation", which I find works best when you can hear all frequencies reasonably well. Then you go back into the control room where acoustic perfection and all of the tools are in their right place.

This may or may not help anyone but I just wanted to put it there in case someone else is seeking similar results.

 

[Jeff Williams]

Thank you for all of this information. I have nothing relevant to add, just a Crutchfield story. Years ago I ordered a Blaupunkt Berlin for my BMW 325is. I was out of town for the week and when I got home on Friday I was going to install it. I told my buddies not to expect me at the bar until late due to the install. With the Crutchfield wiring harness, it was literally 5 minutes from opening the box to jamming down the highway. Would that they all could be that easy!

 

[dubb]

Quick copy/paste from some old posts:

I started switching out door speakers and have been surprised. Started by putting some two way speakers in the front doors - mistake. Figured out that they have a crossover splitting the lows to the door and the highs to the dash. Found a high efficiency 6.5" as a replacement (CL-6.2 - CDT Audio 6.5" 2-Ohm Mid-Range Speakers). Huge upgrade. Bumps way harder than the Bose sub. Ended up with a two way Infinity 6032cf for the backdoors - nice clean mid/high end. Went ahead and dynamatted the doors while I had the panels off. All said and done, under $500 and a huge improvement.

One note - for those CDT speakers, you'll need to re-use the speaker frame from the stock speakers (or buy the deep version of these). They're a little too deep for the standard aftermarket adapters. Just peel the old speaker off the frame and mount it on the bottom of the CDT speaker. I used a thin foam ring (I think it came with the speakers) between the two and cinched it down with zip ties.

Still looking for a plug and play subwoofer replacement :-(

 

[mike661]

Quick copy/paste from some old posts:
Still looking for a plug and play subwoofer replacement :-(

The Cerwin Vega spare tire sub physically drops in. The wiring is one of the easiest wiring jobs I've ever done. I had it up and running in about 30 mins (including running the wire to the +12v). It's a fairly accurate sub, I can finally hear every bass note evenly.

 

[la_fx35]

The Cerwin Vega spare tire sub physically drops in. The wiring is one of the easiest wiring jobs I've ever done. I had it up and running in about 30 mins (including running the wire to the +12v). It's a fairly accurate sub, I can finally hear every bass note evenly.

You must have found an easy way to run the +12v to get it installed in 30 minutes. Would you like to share how you run that +12v wire? Also there are two model of the sub VPAS12ST (5.7" in depth) and VPSTX12 (4.7"), Which sub you went with?

 

[mike661]

You must have found an easy way to run the +12v to get it installed in 30 minutes. Would you like to share how you run that +12v wire? Also there are two model of the sub VPAS12ST (5.7" in depth) and VPSTX12 (4.7")?

I went with the VPAS12ST, though it is pushing the height limits for sure. The VPSTX12 might be better, leaving extra clearance below the floor cover.

As for running the wire, I poked a small hole in the rubber wire surround (going through the firewall). Then I pulled up the door sill trim for both passenger side doors. From there it was just a matter of snaking the wire through (no joke, running the wire took less than a minute for me to pull it from under the hood to the spare tire area). Tapped a fresh ground wire, spliced the rest and got great signal. I did have a multimeter handy and found the best grounding location, otherwise this sub is not going to power up properly.

I also ran the sub remote cable through the same door sill area, and zip-tied it and the 12v wire to the existence tube/wire that was running through the same path.

Even if someone were precautious and took their time this should take no more than 1-2 hours. Definitely worth the time and very convenient considering the results and that no cargo space (or spare tire) is sacrificed in the end.

 

[dubb]

The Cerwin Vega spare tire sub physically drops in. The wiring is one of the easiest wiring jobs I've ever done. I had it up and running in about 30 mins (including running the wire to the +12v). It's a fairly accurate sub, I can finally hear every bass note evenly.

Came back just to flip you the bird ...30 minutes? Jesus christ getting the wire through the rubber boot took FOREVER!

 

[mike661]

Came back just to flip you the bird ...30 minutes? Jesus christ getting the wire through the rubber boot took FOREVER!

I want to say I used a pair of scissors and cut a small X and just pushed the wire through. Fussy stuff, just gotta feel your way through it.
We should set up a timed race doing this install!

Besides the rubber boot struggle, how'd the rest of the install go? Does she sound good?

 

[dubb]

Man, it's always a chore for me, but I like to do it myself. How rough was it? I had to ask the wife for help at one point...almost never a good sign.

The results are great considering the price, right? Will take a little time to tune things properly.

 

[cy esp]

I just did a similar upgrade to my 2017 QX70 limited. Used the Cerwin Vega spare tire sub Here's what I ended up with:

JBL GT0620 6.5 coaxial in rear door
JBL GT0600C component 6.5 in front door and 3/4" tweeter in the upper door trim (near mirrors)
JBL GT020 in the dash corners

I extended the corner dash wires to the door panels so I could mount the crossovers that came with the 600C and set it to 3-way mode to use the "Mid" output to then use the GTO20 crossover for the new dash mids.
-----------------------------------------3-way-crossover----->woofer-out----->not connected
---Dash-wire-extended--->3-way-crossover(in-door)------>mid-out-------->-GTO20-bandpass-filter/crossover--dash-GTO20
-----------------------------------------3-way-crossover----->tweeter-out---->upper-door-tweeter

• The JBL's are a better built speaker that can reproduce the low end more accurately. The JBL tweeters are smoother on both the coaxial and the components.
• The JBL midrange is VERY detailed and is one of the rare speakers that can drop in where the corner dash drivers are. The screw holes don't fit but can be hot glued or held by the force of the speaker grill. The 6.5" drivers need the "7400" speaker adapter as the JBL's are quite deep. Most websites say they don't fit out cars but that's not true.

ATM, I'm using the factory amp which has the crossovers inside, rather than at the speakers like the 1st gen FX had.
The factory dash mid-range drivers are 3.5 ohm, the JBL 2" driver is 2.5" and noticeably louder. I temporarily threw on a 1ohm 10w resistor to mildly attenuate the JBL mids.
The CV sub fills in the missing lower octaves decently well, though not fully flat like the studio systems that I'm used to. 8-gauge wire MUST be run directly from the battery.

This may or may not help anyone but I just wanted to put it there in case someone else is seeking similar results.

Mike, I have read your notes several times and they are exceedingly helpful. I have a couple questions I'ld like to ask before attempting my install later this month. I have ordered the JBL speakers from Crutchfield and the CV sub (low profile) from Amazon.

First, have you had any problems with the factory amp handling the different speaker load? Any over heating or shutting down?

Second, have you left the 1ohm 10watt resistor in the mid-range front speaker circuit? You mention it as a temporary fix. Did you put it before the crossover to reduce volume in both tweeter and mid-range, or just in the mid range? As all the JBLs are 2.5 ohm theoretically they should all have similar increased volume, but reality can be different from theory. Perhaps the tweeter and mid-range act as parallel loads essentially reducing the 2.5 ohm resistance to 1.75 ohms?

Third, did you come across the Bose (woofer/tweeter) crossover spec's from the factory amp? Curious if it is close to the JBL's 500hz. Do you think there could be any benefit to leaving out the GTO20 bandpass filter relying on the factory amp's crossover to cut out the lower frequencies and the 600C's crossover (to the tweeter) for high frequencies. When possible I try to minimize additional audio processing in the circuit.

Lastly, are you happy where you put the tweeter and could you be more specific about where you think it should go? My QX70 has a plastic triangle in the bottom corner of the window by the outside mirrors that I was considering. I gather there is insufficient space in the dash for the tweeter next to the GTO20s

I want to thank you again for sharing your installation ideas and your audio background. I'm a big fan of Harmon and have JBL's brother Revels in my main home stereo set up.

 

[mike661]

Mike, I have read your notes several times and they are exceedingly helpful. I have a couple questions I'ld like to ask before attempting my install later this month. I have ordered the JBL speakers from Crutchfield and the CV sub (low profile) from Amazon.

First, have you had any problems with the factory amp handling the different speaker load? Any over heating or shutting down?

Second, have you left the 1ohm 10watt resistor in the mid-range front speaker circuit? You mention it as a temporary fix. Did you put it before the crossover to reduce volume in both tweeter and mid-range, or just in the mid range? As all the JBLs are 2.5 ohm theoretically they should all have similar increased volume, but reality can be different from theory. Perhaps the tweeter and mid-range act as parallel loads essentially reducing the 2.5 ohm resistance to 1.75 ohms?

Third, did you come across the Bose (woofer/tweeter) crossover spec's from the factory amp? Curious if it is close to the JBL's 500hz. Do you think there could be any benefit to leaving out the GTO20 bandpass filter relying on the factory amp's crossover to cut out the lower frequencies and the 600C's crossover (to the tweeter) for high frequencies. When possible I try to minimize additional audio processing in the circuit.

Lastly, are you happy where you put the tweeter and could you be more specific about where you think it should go? My QX70 has a plastic triangle in the bottom corner of the window by the outside mirrors that I was considering. I gather there is insufficient space in the dash for the tweeter next to the GTO20s

I want to thank you again for sharing your installation ideas and your audio background. I'm a big fan of Harmon and have JBL's brother Revels in my main home stereo set up.

No problems with the factory amp. These speakers are running close to the stock load, the only issue is they could benefit from a more powerful amp. Transients are not as defined or aggressive as they could be.

No more resistor in circuit as I've put the JBL midrange driver in the dash. The most important part is that I'm using the JBL crossover only to split the mid to tweeter and letting the stock Bose deliver to the door woofer as-is. I haven't tested the frequency response for the woofer to mid/high driver but 500Hz does sound in the ballpark.

The stock system is essentially a 3-way system (sub, woofer, mid/high driver) and we're needing to make it a 4-way system which is why we NEED the JBL crossover (sub, woofer, mid, tweeter). The rear door is getting supplied everything above subwoofer range so that doesn't require crossover, though I did put a piece of flexible packing foam over the tweeter to dampen the extreme high-end coming from it.

I'm attaching a few pics showing the tweeter location, my subwoofer settings and factory unit EQ.

I hope this helps you in some way.

 

[cy esp]

No problems with the factory amp. These speakers are running close to the stock load, the only issue is they could benefit from a more powerful amp. Transients are not as defined or aggressive as they could be.

No more resistor in circuit as I've put the JBL midrange driver in the dash. The most important part is that I'm using the JBL crossover only to split the mid to tweeter and letting the stock Bose deliver to the door woofer as-is. I haven't tested the frequency response for the woofer to mid/high driver but 500Hz does sound in the ballpark.

The stock system is essentially a 3-way system (sub, woofer, mid/high driver) and we're needing to make it a 4-way system which is why we NEED the JBL crossover (sub, woofer, mid, tweeter). The rear door is getting supplied everything above subwoofer range so that doesn't require crossover, though I did put a piece of flexible packing foam over the tweeter to dampen the extreme high-end coming from it.

I'm attaching a few pics showing the tweeter location, my subwoofer settings and factory unit EQ.

I hope this helps you in some way.
View attachment 606442 View attachment 606440
View attachment 606441

I have attempted to duplicate much of Mike661 upgrade suggestions.
Initial results are an improvement over the factory Bose, but there is plenty of room for even better results with some additional tweaks. Below is my experience so far....

1) I was able to easily replace the in-tire sub-woofer with the low profile Cerwin Vega sub. As an experiment, I used the existing power wire. I may run a wire to the battery in the future, but so far no problem, I don't play music that loud. Huge upgrade in the low frequency bass (150-50ish HZ). Highly recommend it.
For a week I enjoyed the CVsub with the stock Bose speakers. The CV sub was great down low, but the mid-bass disappeared. The factory Bose sub doesn't do much down low but evidently fills in the mid-bass. The front door woofers should handle the mid-bass but did not seem to have enough output to fill the mid-bass. The factory dash speakers are not as bad as I thought, but lack high frequency. So the CV sub (alone) replacement upgrade had good mids and deep bass but poor mid-bass, and poor hi frequency.
2) I had a "chain car audio store" install a full set of the JBL speakers (Stadium 20M, 600C, 620) as recommended by Mike.
The rear door speakers sound good, big improvement. A little bright but tolerable.
The new tweeter (mounted in the plastic window panel) and in-dash mid sound good too. Much clearer than the Bose mushy sound. But they are way too loud relative to the front door woofers. Turning the treble all the way down and the bass turned all the way up, delivers good sound, but even with those extreme settings I think there is still notable frequency missing from where the sub (set at 150hz limit) rolls off to 500 or 600hz where the dash mid-range picks up.
I don't know if all the QX70s have under performing front door woofer output, but mine is a fail with both the factory Bose and the new JBLs.
Still sounds good, but below my expectations. The JBLs are excellent and accurate as Mike said. Just need to lower the volume of the the new tweeters/midrange so the front door woofer can fill in the mid-bass better.

I am considering putting a resistor in the circuit between the factory amp and new JBL crossovers. Probably will order a pair of 1.5 and 3 ohm, 20 (or 10) watt audio grade resistors so I can reduce tweeter+mid-range volume to better match the under-performing front door woofer and flatten the frequency output. I am hoping to get more output from the door woofers so I can set the subwoofer near 80hz roll off, and the treble near midrange rather than absolute minimum.

I am open to any other suggestions.

In hindsight, Dubb's suggestion of living with the Bose dash speakers and replacing the front door woofers with CDTs could be an excellent suggestion for anyone considering an upgrade. That might correct everything except the limited highs from the stock Bose dash speakers with far less cost and hassle.

 

[mike661]

I have attempted to duplicate much of Mike661 upgrade suggestions.
Initial results are an improvement over the factory Bose, but there is plenty of room for even better results with some additional tweaks. Below is my experience so far....

1) I was able to easily replace the in-tire sub-woofer with the low profile Cerwin Vega sub. As an experiment, I used the existing power wire. I may run a wire to the battery in the future, but so far no problem, I don't play music that loud. Huge upgrade in the low frequency bass (150-50ish HZ). Highly recommend it.
For a week I enjoyed the CVsub with the stock Bose speakers. The CV sub was great down low, but the mid-bass disappeared. The factory Bose sub doesn't do much down low but evidently fills in the mid-bass. The front door woofers should handle the mid-bass but did not seem to have enough output to fill the mid-bass. The factory dash speakers are not as bad as I thought, but lack high frequency. So the CV sub (alone) replacement upgrade had good mids and deep bass but poor mid-bass, and poor hi frequency.
2) I had a "chain car audio store" install a full set of the JBL speakers (Stadium 20M, 600C, 620) as recommended by Mike.
The rear door speakers sound good, big improvement. A little bright but tolerable.
The new tweeter (mounted in the plastic window panel) and in-dash mid sound good too. Much clearer than the Bose mushy sound. But they are way too loud relative to the front door woofers. Turning the treble all the way down and the bass turned all the way up, delivers good sound, but even with those extreme settings I think there is still notable frequency missing from where the sub (set at 150hz limit) rolls off to 500 or 600hz where the dash mid-range picks up.
I don't know if all the QX70s have under performing front door woofer output, but mine is a fail with both the factory Bose and the new JBLs.
Still sounds good, but below my expectations. The JBLs are excellent and accurate as Mike said. Just need to lower the volume of the the new tweeters/midrange so the front door woofer can fill in the mid-bass better.

I am considering putting a resistor in the circuit between the factory amp and new JBL crossovers. Probably will order a pair of 1.5 and 3 ohm, 20 (or 10) watt audio grade resistors so I can reduce tweeter+mid-range volume to better match the under-performing front door woofer and flatten the frequency output. I am hoping to get more output from the door woofers so I can set the subwoofer near 80hz roll off, and the treble near midrange rather than absolute minimum.

I am open to any other suggestions.

In hindsight, Dubb's suggestion of living with the Bose dash speakers and replacing the front door woofers with CDTs could be an excellent suggestion for anyone considering an upgrade. That might correct everything except the limited highs from the stock Bose dash speakers with far less cost and hassle.

I'm trying good and hard to recall if there was anything different I might have done as our results don't seem the same. The door woofer in my QX70 is definitely putting out a healthy dose of low-end and if I boosted the bass and lowered the treble as you mentioned, mine becomes a muffled rumblefest (with the EQ settings I posted above I'm getting a very flat frequency response).

Did you extend your dash audio wires to be the source for the crossover, leaving the door audio wires to power the new woofers without crossover involvement (same as factory setup)? I want to say there was an attenuation switch or maybe I did leave a resistor in-line before the crossover. Would love to pinpoint what the difference is so you can get the same results as I.

 

[cy esp]

I'm trying good and hard to recall if there was anything different I might have done as our results don't seem the same. The door woofer in my QX70 is definitely putting out a healthy dose of low-end and if I boosted the bass and lowered the treble as you mentioned, mine becomes a muffled rumblefest (with the EQ settings I posted above I'm getting a very flat frequency response).

Did you extend your dash audio wires to be the source for the crossover, leaving the door audio wires to power the new woofers without crossover involvement (same as factory setup)? I want to say there was an attenuation switch or maybe I did leave a resistor in-line before the crossover. Would love to pinpoint what the difference is so you can get the same results as I.

Yes, he ran the dash speaker wire from the dash to the door where he installed both crossovers and then ran the mid wire back to the dash. I put the tweeter in the same door spot you used. Running the wires to/from the dash is tricky as the door wires have a plug harness that snaps together for easy removal of the door, so one must create an opening for the new speaker wires.
I think there is a switch on the crossover, but it is for 2 vs 3 way output (to 20M crossover). I don't recall a attenuation switch, but I will double check. The switch might be set wrong, its worth checking.
He did a straight replacement of the front door woofers to the existing wire from the factory amp (not the crossover).
I wonder if you left the resistor in the circuit, that seems the best way to attenuate the front mid + high output.
My sub setting is similar to yours, volume at the minimum. It puts out nice lows.
Its already a sizable improvement over the factory sound, but I think your upgrade design can sound far better in my car if I can attenuate the front mid+highs several db. Would be great to get the same result as you.
Thanks for your suggestions, and let me know if you recall anything more.

 

[Gregory Brookes]

There is so little out there around the audio systems and replacing OEM stuff for the QX70, so I wanted to share what I ended up doing to upgrade my stock "Premium Bose" door speakers. I'm not one to go crazy and have a competition grade stereo, but I am an audiophile who spends a crapton of time in my car for commutes. I like a rich audio spectrum.

To preface, I bought my 2017 QX70 about a month ago. It only took me a day or two to realize that the "Bose premium sound" was a joke. I spent about a week looking around the internet only to run into roadblock after roadblock around anything aftermarket for audio for my new QX70.

It pissed me off to no extent that I could not stream bluetooth audio w/o the navigation package. (Dick move Nissan!) So I went old school and purchased an Anker FM transmitter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. (edit: There is not a 3.5mm aux jack available - again, WTF Nissan?) There's a bit of static from the OTA, but at least it's something for the short term. I plan on replacing the entire stereo with an android based Tesla-style RhinoRadio later this summer to alleviate this issue tho.

https://rhinoradios.com/products/infiniti-qx70-fx50-fx35-2009-2019-12-1-vertical-screen-android-radio-tesla-style

-----------

Roav SmartCharge F2, by Anker
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719SNR5N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-----------

I went to crutchfield, who has always been the first place i head to for years and years. They have no QX70 data, you get the "we have no info on your vehicle" errors when you plug it in. I decided to gamble and plugged in a FX35 and hit the motherlode tho.

From using a FX35 profile, I was able to glean that I could use Metra 72-7401 adaptors to clip new door speakers into the existing harnesses. I also found that I could use the Metra 82-7400 Speaker Adapter to mount to the existing door screw holes. (These needed a bit of modification to fit properly, but it was just a matter of elongating the 3 screw cut outs in the plastic by 1/4 of an inch or so by using a drill.

I decided to go with 6.5" Infinity REF-6522EX Shallow-Mount speakers based of of their reputation, and my past history using Infinity speakers.

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2x 6.5" Infinity REF-6522EX Shallow-Mount Speakers (2-pack, $50 cheaper on amazon than crutchfield)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FUZV7ZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x Metra 72-7401 Harness Clips (2-pack)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N03JC9O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x Metra 82-7400 Speaker Mounts (2-pack)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0194MS420/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Now I just had to find specs on how to get my door panels off and happened upon this gem off of another post on these forums:

http://www.pdf-archive.com/2015/09/23/int/

Complete instructions on how to remove the QX70 door panels. Thank you @MemoryLeak

So, with that in hand, once I received my packages from amazon and small prep time staging my speakers with the new spacers and harness clip it took me roughly 20 minutes per door to replace the old, bunk speakers. I also want to add that I secured a 7"x7" circle cut to the Metra mount's profile from some Dynamat to the back side of each speaker mount to create a nice seal to the door once the speakers were tightened into place.

After I was done, I flipped on my stereo and was blown away by the difference. The sound has gotten so much richer just from changing these 4 door speakers. It's like night and day.

Next on the agenda, I am going to replace the in-tire subwoofer with a 12" Cerwin-Vega in-tire powered sub. I may need to take it to a shop tho for install, as I cannot find a harness to properly adapt it in. I'm expecting a nice low end with this once installed to complete a rich-sounding upgrade.

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Cerwin-Vega Vega 12" Powered Active Subwoofer Spare Tire
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY9BPVR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I was also planning on changing out the in-dash tweeters and 3.5", but I don't think i need to now. I'll post back once the sub is in.

Hello there!
Thanks for this vital information! I could not find it anywhere.
I too am not happy with this system. So I started with the sub first . I did it myself ! I was able to get the signal from the sub wiring harness. Green and red wire. It’s working great! I also installed the LC2I line out converter to the sub. Helps a lot! Awesome product!
Again thanks for the info!

 

[Nnamdi]

Hello there!
Thanks for this vital information! I could not find it anywhere.
I too am not happy with this system. So I started with the sub first . I did it myself ! I was able to get the signal from the sub wiring harness. Green and red wire. It’s working great! I also installed the LC2I line out converter to the sub. Helps a lot! Awesome product!
Again thanks for the info!

How was the difference in bass with the LC2I?

 

[la_fx35]

Does anyone know if any modification to the Metra 72-7401 hardness? It doesn't seems to fit the factory speaker wire connector.

 

[S3R3BR0]

Does anyone know if any modification to the Metra 72-7401 hardness? It doesn't seems to fit the factory speaker wire connector.

I didn't have to modify them at all. It was all plug and play when I did it.

 

[la_fx35]

Hmm, the metra 72-7401 harness I bought does not fit. I have to shave off the two key/ridges (circled in red) in order to get it clipped onto the factory speaker connector.
The left connector was how it came. The right connector was modified for it to fit.