Copper 2007 FX35 AWD build thread!

[95maxrider]

The rear wiper on my wife's FX35 seems to have a mind of its own. This is a video of it on the intermittent setting. It runs fine for a few passes, and then gets stuck, only jumping a few inches at a time. Sometimes it also stops working completely in the On setting.

I have tried two different wiper motors, and they both behave the same way, so I'm beginning to think it's the wiper stalk. Any thoughts?

 

[onthemove]

Delete it. Looks better without it.

 

[95maxrider]

Delete it. Looks better without it.

While I agree with your sentiment, there's a reason I'm trying to get this to work; we need a functioning rear wiper! There's a lot of rain and a fair amount of snow here, so a rear wiper is rather mandatory on car with visibility this poor.

 

[onthemove]

Most of my cars have had rear windows at a slant = to or > than that of the FX's yet none had a rear wiper. Between Chicago, Cali and the Carolinas, I've never needed nor wanted one but to each his/her own.

 

[95maxrider]

It's been a while, time for some updates!

After a very heavy rain, my wife noticed a bit of water around the top of the door seal for the driver's door. It didn't drip down into the cabin, but stayed at the seal IIRC. Both door seals (body and door) are intact and appear to be in fine condition. Does anyone know why it might not be making a good seal?







Next up was installing the aux cable for the stereo. I went with the iSimple ISNI531 kit for $75:



There were two "hard" parts of the install: figuring out which two connectors to unplug from the back of the HU for the unit to intercept, and figuring out exactly how to route the wires behind the HU so that it fits back in the dash flush. Aside from that, it's very straightforward. I used some double sided tape to hold the box to the top of the HU so it doesn't fly around. I routed the wires through some holes into the glove box, but that's only a temporary solution until I mount up something permanent and stock-looking.









As far as the sound goes, it could use a little more gain, as I have to crank up the HU over 50% to get good volume out of it. But I didn't notice any hissing or popping, and sound quality was good enough. We took a nice long trip this past weekend, using it the whole time and it didn't let us down. I wish I had bought it months ago, the install was so easy. If you just want an aux input to your stereo from you phone, I don't think you can beat this for $75.

Next up, something completely different! How about a trip to the junk yard?

Ever since we bought our FX, I set up an alert for my local junkyards to let me know if an FX ever came through. Well, a few weeks ago I got an email and there was a sport model sitting there on its factory 20s! I got up there as quick as I could and luckily the wheels were still on it! Unfortunately, one was badly curbed, one was chrome, and two were merely okay. I decided to pass on the wheels, and the clear sport tail lights were already taken. But the pedals were still there! So I grabbed the pedals, wiper stalk, one door speaker, and the center speaker.



Rubber pedals are so boring!



Give me that fancy chit! Gotta clean it up first though....so I hit them with some 0000 steel wool and some metal polish.

















Ahh, much better! Now I just need the clutch pedal off a 350z for the e-brake and I'll be set!

In more recent news, it seems the wheel bearing for the PS rear wheel is bad, making noise, and there's play in the wheel. Just need to figure out if I'm going with OEM or Timken....

 

[95maxrider]

Well, that escalated quickly!

One day the wheel bearing is making a faint noise, and then the next day it's making a terrible noise, crap! Just to be sure, I jacked the FX up and shook the rear wheels. Sure enough, the PS rear wheel was all sorts of loose. Time to borrow a car to drive to work until the new bearing arrives! And with that, my wife drove a friend's Escape around for a week while I waited on parts.

It seems only one company, Beck Arnley, makes a pre-assembled rear wheel bearing and hub. All the rest sell the bearing by itself, and only one company sells a rear hub by itself, Durago. After reading reviews of the Beck Arnley products, I decided to buy a better quality bearing, at the expense of having the press it onto the new hub myself. I went with a Timken bearing, since they are always good quality. In the end, I got something even better, a Japanese NSK bearing!







That means this thing is likely the OEM bearing, but for half of the price, woo hoo!

The $20 Durago hub? Made in China, of course. I didn't want to mess around with pulling the old bearing from the old hub, new stuff just makes it so easy. So on the press it goes! I left the hub in the freezer overnight and put the bearing outside in the hot sun to make assembly as smooth as possible. And sure enough, it went together without a hitch.



Getting the old assembly out of the car was another matter, as the two caliper bracket bolts and the four bearing bolts were absolutely seized in place. I also had to spend a good amount of time whacking the axle with a sledge hammer (with the nut on the end to not mess up the axle) to free it from the hub, it was on there really good. Due to how things are packaged back there, I couldn't use my gun on any of the bolts. However, even after spraying Kroil all over everything and letting it sit for 30 minutes, even my 2' breaker bar couldn't loosen a single bolt! I had a race the following day, and I really needed this thing back on the road, so I was starting to get nervous, since it was already like 3 PM. I dug through my tool chest, looking for something that could access the bearing bolts, as they're kind of hidden behind the axle boot. Thankfully, I have a set of bendy wrenches:



It was that tool that saved my day! I had to whack it pretty good with a sledge hammer, but it eventually broke all the bolts loose. Then it was on to the slide hammer! This guy made quick work of the hub, pulling it out after only like seven pulls. Super easy!



There was some good rust buildup on the inside of the spindle where the bearing sits, so I had to clean that up before installing the new one, lest it not sit perfectly flush and fail prematurely.





Thankfully my Dremel made quick work of the mess, and I was ready to reinstall.





The old bearing was so bad that I could barely turn it by hand!

I used a wire brush to clean up the splines in the axle, and also cleaned up that threads for the nut. I then put some anti-seize on the splines to facilitate removal in the future.



With a new cotter pin, it was back together!



A test drive revealed a nice and quiet car, and was quite a load off my shoulders before my race (which I won!). It's been about a week now with no complaints from the wife, so I think the mission has been accomplished, and all for only $105!

 

[95maxrider]

Aside from that coolant tube, there was one other piece of the car whose rust alarmed me, and that was the oil pan. It wasn't nearly as bad as the coolant pipe, but there were some healthy rust eating away at the metal, and I didn't want it to make it any further. I ordered a $25 pan off Ebay, some Permatex The Right Stuff, some oil, and got busy.





Getting the pan off was pretty easy, but there was a fair amount of prep work that had to be done before I could install the new one.



Scraping off all the old silicone was a PITA, and oil kept draining down hours after I pulled the pan, making things rather messy. Eventually, I got the upper pan clean enough and put it all back together. If I were to do it again, I would drop the FSB a bit so I would have more room to reinstall the pan. Thankfully, everything looked nice and clean inside the pan:



New one on:



The new pan didn't come with a crush washer installed, so I threw one in there:



While I waited for the Permatex to cure, I cleaned up and installed another pedal from the junkyard. These were off a 350z, so I snagged them both, with the idea of using one for the e-brake.



This looks fine and all, but that rubber cover sticks out like a sore thumb...



However, it became clear this would not be a direct swap:





So I prepped the surfaces so they would make good contact with some epoxy:



And cut off the top section of rubber:



And then mixed up some QuikSteel:



Smushed it all together:



And viola!



A nice matching pedal set. Sweet!

I would just like to take a moment to curse the guy who designed the oil dipstick for this car. I absolutely can't get a clean reading of the dipstick without removing the entire intake system. Otherwise, I have to bend the dipstick so far to avoid the intake that it scrapes the sides and that messes up the oil reading. I can't be the only one who feels this way?!?



What am I missing here??

 

[onthemove]

I don't recall having difficulty with the dip stick but it's been awhile. I cut my handle off and made it a "short throw" shift....I mean dip stick. Nice job with the maintenance.

 

[gto]

Agree. Dipstick is ass. Takes 2 dips for a confident read.

Good thread & pics

 

[95maxrider]

Hi everyone, long time no updates! The FX has been chugging along without issue, so there hasn't been anything to update the thread with. It's due for new tires, and I've always had my eyes out for a set of the factory 20s, so I figured this would be the best time to do the upgrade. Now, I would never consider 20s for my cars, but on the FX the 18s just look kinda puny, and this isn't a racecar, so a few extra pounds of rotational mass won't be the end of the world.

I had an alert set up for my local junkyards to let me know whenever an FX came into one of the yards, but it was rare when one came in on the 20s. Two months ago or so I got two alerts from the same yard that there were two FXs there on the 20s, one 03-05, and one 06-08. I really preferred the look of the later 20s, and they're very rare these days, so I went straight for those when I got to the yard. It had only been there 2-3 days, but one of the wheels had already been taken off the car. The only reason the other three were still on is because they had factory-style wheel locks on them that you can't just smash a socket onto and bang off, these looked to be impossible to get off with the special tool, which I didn't have. All four wheels were on the 03-05 that was there, but those too had the impossible to steal factory locks on them, so I left the yard in defeat with little to show for my efforts.

I started looking at R35 wheels, but my wife didn't like the way they looked on the FX, so they were out of contention. She also preferred the 03-05 wheels over the 06-08, so that made my job easier too since there are so many of the early style wheels out there. I found a set on Ebay that were in pretty good shape, made an offer, and it was accepted. They didn't come with center caps, but there was another seller selling a set in mint condition for cheap, so I picked those up as well. It wasn't as cheap as it would have been if I had been able to snag it all from a junkyard, but the tires were on the wear bars and I just couldn't wait any longer.

The wheels arrived and I got busy cleaning them up. They weren't too dirty, but before I had them mounted up I wanted to polish them and seal them to keep them clean and shiny for a long time.

Before basic cleaning:

After basic cleaning:

Then I got busy with my polisher and some 3" pads. The finish had lost some of its luster, and some wheels had some decent surface marring, and shown here:

I spent about an hour polishing each wheel, and while the results are had to see in photos, they look great in person. Very shiny, and most light imperfections were completely removed. Only the deeper scratches remained. I then sealed them up with some Big White Hi-Temp Paste Wax.

I also weighed everything before we put it in on the car. The 03-05 20" wheels weigh 31.4 pounds, and the 265/50/20 Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus (all season) tires weigh 42.6 pounds. Damn, a 74 pound wheel/tire combo, that's crazy! The 15" wheels with snow tires on my M3 weigh a combined 35 pounds.

Installed pics and TPMS stuff coming soon...

 

[gto]

I like your posts and it looks like it's getting cleaned up. PITA though although it must be nice to have a lift.
& like the look of the factory 20s, but they are heavy. R35 wheel with bigger tire, I'm 15lbs less a corner.

You mentioned you autoX. In what? & lets see some detail on the modded I30? Those were cool

 

[gto]

"and this isn't a racecar". True, but you'd be surprised at how capable, yet still compliant this car can be. Responds to supension, wheel and tire mods incredibly. My chassis dynamics & steering feel completely different and a ton better from where it started. balanced, no oversteer, predictable slides. but deffinately firmer. but that's where I wanted to go

 

[gto]

& when you get going, You'll need the brakes. I would seriously do that mod. Fronts from 09 FX50 only & it doesnt cost much

 

[95maxrider]

I like your posts and it looks like it's getting cleaned up. PITA though although it must be nice to have a lift.
& like the look of the factory 20s, but they are heavy. R35 wheel with bigger tire, I'm 15lbs less a corner.

You mentioned you autoX. In what? & lets see some detail on the modded I30? Those were cool

Thanks! Yeah, a lift is a life saver, makes things so much easier. I like the factory 20s too, I just wish they weren't quite so heavy. I wanted a square set of R35 front wheels, which apparently weigh 26 pounds each, so only 5 pounds lighter, although they are 1.5" wider. Unfortunately, they were going to be more than double the cost of these wheels, and the wife didn't like them. Since this is her vehicle, I had to defer to her preferences.

I've mostly run auto-x in my I30, but the M3 has also seen some. But the M3 is mostly set up and used for rally-x. But I do want to make the FX so it can technically do SCCA events in case the wife wants to go. In stock form the height/width ratio is off a bit, so you either need to lower it a bit or widen the track. I plan on doing both. I've had my I30 since 2003, it's a 1996. I just put together an updated mod list for its build thread on Maxima.org, so here you go:

Engine/Trans
-2002/03 Maxima 3.5 motor, no SS IM mod
-K&N filter, velocity stack
-2001/02 Pathfinder 70mm TB
-Custom PFTB adapter and throttle cable bracket from sicivic89
-Custom PFTB IACV block off plate from sicivic89
-NWP thermal intake manifold spacers
-NWP Block off plate
-Oil catch can
-Nistune ECU, 7k RPM rev-limit
-Cattman headers
-OEM cat
-2.5” resonated b-pipe
-Cattman muffler
-Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator
-Quaife differential in rebuilt/refreshed transmission
-Spare Nissan re-manufactured VLSD transmission that had gears and shifting mechanisms deburred, shot peened, and cryo treated, roughly 15k miles from new
-2000/01 DE-K Maxima OEM clutch and flywheel
-Poly shifter bushing
-97-99 Maxima shifter with 1” cut out from center and welded back together
-Sola Luna weighted aluminum shift knob
-Custom aluminum radiator brackets
-Put down 210 whp on old DE-K motor, about 250 whp on 3.5

Suspension
-BC Racing coilovers 9k front, 8k rear and valved to match dampers
-2.5* camber front (maxed out camber bolts), custom 4.7* caster (up from 2.2* stock, drilled new holes in front strut towers, rotated coilovers 90*), 0.1* toe out
-Corner balanced, 60.0% F, 40.0% R, 50/50 left to right
-3,130 lbs w/full tank of gas, empty trunk, full interior
-2J Racing converted the Scott-Russel linkage to a panhard rod rear suspension
-New panhard rod from Speedway Motors with PTFE-lined rod ends
-Progress RSB at max stiff
-Energy Suspension poly bushings for sway bar frame mounts (7.5118G), sway bar end links (9.8106G), control arms (7.3111G), cross member (7.1116G), and F&R motor mounts (7.1114G)
-Poly side/trans mounts
-Delrin front subframe bushings/collars
-Super Pro poly rear trailing arm bushings
-Moog control arms (better welds than stock)
Current Alignment:
-2.4* camber
+4.7* caster
-0.10* toe out

Brakes
-Wilwood 4 piston front calipers with 12.9” 2-piece rotors w/Wilwood Polymatrix E pads
-Fastbrakes 12.3” rear BBK (redrilled Accord rotors) with stock calipers and Carbotech AX-6 pads
-Track pads are Carbotech XP-8
-SS lines
-ATE DOT-4 fluid

Chassis
-Warpspeed Stage 1+2 Subframe connectors (welded)
-Custom fender braces, welded to chassis
-Stillen RSTB (Stillen front won't fit over 3.5 IM)
-No sunroof (stock)
-97-99 Maxima SE steering rack, B15 SE-R rack on shelf
-NWP engine torque link (not currently in use)
-Aluminum steering column bushing
-Relocated battery to trunk, 0-gauge wire
-95 Maxima aluminum front bumper support (-30 lbs)
-Rolled front fenders, rolled and slightly pulled rear fenders

Cooling
-Mishimoto radiator w/19 psi cap, Toyota red coolant
-Racer Parts Wholesale 24 row oil cooler with -10 AN lines
-Derale power steering cooler

Other Fluids
-Motul 8100 X-cess 5w-40 engine oil
-Amsoil 75w-90 MT fluid

Exterior
-The Retrofit Source FX-R 3” V3 projectors w/ 4.3k HID bulbs in Cefiro headlights with E55 shrouds
-TRS Blazer fog light projectors, 3k HID bulbs, independent fog light rewire mod
-All front lighting housings blacked out
-Painted grille vertical slats black
-Removed three vertical bars from lower bumper grille, filled, sanded, painted
-350Z horns
-Garage door front lip
-Nissan Murano windshield washer nozzles
-Black OEM mirrors
-35% tint
-All chrome window trim blacked out (temporarily removed)
-I30t spoiler
-Debadged trunk
-1998/99 I30 tail lights (heated up with heat gun, pressed center section together to fix common leak issue)
-All original paint (except spoiler and some touch up work on bumpers)

Interior
-Recaro Speed seat w/gray alcantara center section, CG Lock for seat belt
-Gunmetal aluminum dash trim from Shadow (old Org member), matching aluminum lower door panels
-Stock light gray leather (less than 5% of A32s?)
-Sparco L505 steering wheel
-350Z aluminum pedals, dead pedal
-Custom gray alcantara door panels
-Matching gray alcantara shift boots w/black stitching by Redline Goods
-Redline Goods black leather arm rest with some extra foam cushion inside
-Techtom MDM-100 (Set to display speed and water temp since the smaller steering wheel cuts off view of 20-120 mph)
-95/96 Maxima SE gauge cluster, gunmetal aluminum gauge rings
-Innovate Motorsports LC-2 Wideband O2 Sensor
-Innovate Motorsports MTX-D Oil Pressure & Oil Temperature Gauge
-99 I30 Limited aluminum door sill/scuff plates
-Most interior lights are white LEDs (Gauge cluster, door switches, HVAC display)
-97-99 Maxima center console with flip-over cup holder
-Fuzzy pillars (stock)
-Replaced cracking chrome interior door handles

Stereo
-Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit (5V pre-out)
-Focal P165V15 6.5” component front speakers
-Hertz DCX 165 co-axial rear speakers
-Carstereoadapters.com PVC custom speaker adapters
-12” JL W6 subwoofer, Sonic Electronix 1.15 ft3 sealed box
-Boston Acoustics GT2 (125w RMS x 2 for front speakers) with 4 AWG OFC wire
-Alpine MRP-M500 (500w x 1 for sub) with 4 AWG OFC wire
-Clifford RS3.5 alarm with remote start
-MDF trunk floor with bracket to hold sub box in place
-14 AWG oxygen-free copper (OFC) speaker wire to speakers
-12 AWG oxygen-free copper (OFC) speaker wire to sub
-E-Dead sound deadening in the trunk, front doors and rear deck
-Frost King insulation in the front doors and other areas
-E-Dead sound deadening on front fender liners

Wheels/tires
-17x8 Enkei RPM2 +45? with 245/45/17 Michelin Pilot Super Sports
-17x8.5 Enkei RPF1 +40 with 245/40/17 Hoosier A6
-ARP extended wheel studs
-2J Racing 10mm front, 15mm rear wheel spacers

It will soon be receiving an HLSD 6MT out of a newer Maxima as well as a motor from an 09+ Maxima. I'm hoping to get it to around 300 whp when it's all said and done. Here are a few pics:

It's my baby!

 

[95maxrider]

"and this isn't a racecar". True, but you'd be surprised at how capable, yet still compliant this car can be. Responds to supension, wheel and tire mods incredibly. My chassis dynamics & steering feel completely different and a ton better from where it started. balanced, no oversteer, predictable slides. but deffinately firmer. but that's where I wanted to go

Oh, no doubt. There's a reason we bought it, and it's not just the color! BC coilovers are coming soon to replace the worn out stock suspension. I'm also planning on putting some wheel spacers on it. I was originally considering ARP wheel studs and some nice spacers, but that's a lot of work, so I may just go the H&R DRM Series bolt-on spacer route. I just need to decide if I should get 20mm or 25mm all around.

Regarding the brakes- All the brakes were just redone at the dealership 2k before we bought the car, so I won't upgrade anything until the stuff on the car wears out. But yeah, it's on my mind!

 

[gto]

Proper set of mods on that thing. & manual! I dig. You went pretty crazy with the bolt ons. Do you have any in car video, track pix, whatever?

M3 too.

 

[95maxrider]

Proper set of mods on that thing. & manual! I dig. You went pretty crazy with the bolt ons. Do you have any in car video, track pix, whatever?

M3 too.

Ask and ye shall receive.

Can you smell the understeer?









Lifting that inside wheel



Please excuse the rasp from my old exhaust, I thought a stock G35 sedan muffler was going to keep it quiet and sound good, but it did not. The current exhaust is 59264893x better.

As for the M3....

 

[95maxrider]

Well just like the engine oil pan last year, the transmission oil pan needed to be replaced this year. It was pretty crusty, and I didn't want to run the chance of it leaking out without us knowing, so I ordered a new one with all the required parts. I also decided to replace the rubber lines for the trans cooler that run to the radiator since I saw some transmission fluid residue around one of the fittings a while back. After cleaning I didn't see any more evidence of leakage, but lines are pretty cheap, so I figured I would just do everything at once.

Ahh, the beauty of new parts! I'm glad I read the FSM before ordering parts, because you need to replace all 22 bolts that hold the pan on since they come with thread locker on them. The old bolts were pretty nasty, so I was happy to oblige.

The brackets that hold up the oxygen sensor wires were nasty too, so I ground them down and repainted them.

The bolts that attach the lateral brace were crusty too (what a surprise!) so I hit them with the wire wheel and chased the threads (not shown) with my die tool. I chased the threads in the body with a tap and everything went back together super smooth.

These little bolts hold the underbody plastic to the lateral brace and snapped off as I tried to get them out. I hit the stuck portions with a wire wheel, some Kroil, some heat, and a vice grips, and they eventually came out. Naturally, I chased those threads out in the brace and installed new bolts.

This is one of the two magnets that's inside the pan. It had a pretty good layer of metal particles all over it, but I suppose that's probably normal after 135,000 miles. I wiped them off and put them in the new pan.

I ended up having to use my trans jack to hold the new pan and gasket in place while I tightened all 22 of the bolts. They have to be torqued in a specific sequence, and because the old bolts also had thread locker on them, getting the new ones started was more difficult than anticipated due to much of the thread locker still being in the threads. When it was all said and done, about 7 quarts came out between the pan and the lines, and total capacity is just under 11, so I'm feeling pretty good about getting that much old fluid out and new stuff in. I ordered a case of the Matic-S fluid, so I have 5 more quarts to do another drain and fill down the road.

Ahh, now isn't that beautiful?

The next big project is to remove both lateral braces, clean up the rust, and then POR15 them. Same for the front subframe. I hate rust! The actual body/structure of the FX has no rust, but some of the things attached to it certainly do, so I want to stop the spread and make things all shiny. I plan on keeping this FX for as long as possible, so this will all be worth it in the long run.

 

[bukhalid]

Hi everyone! My name is Nick and my wife just bought a 2007 FX35 AWD! I've been a big Nissan/Infiniti fan since I was a kid, and have owned a very modified I30 since 2003. I've never liked SUVs, but I have always loved the FX. While on vacation at the beach a month ago we spotted a slightly modified burnt copper 1st gen FX parked, and I commented on how much I've always liked them, and she said she thought it was pretty cool looking. It probably helped that orange is one of her favorite colors! We weren't in the market for a new car for her, but her 2001 Escape was tired and I was tired of working on it. While I recovered from getting sunburned, I checked out FXs for sale. I was only interested in the burnt copper color, and I wanted one of the refreshed models, 2006-2008. I also had to have the cool brown interior, and would have preferred RWD. However, here in the DC area, most are AWD. Turns out finding a burnt copper 35 with the brown interior and RWD was pretty much impossible, but I did find one 10 miles from my house that was AWD. It had about 120k on it, the guy was the second owner, and he had ALL service done at the dealer! The car was in great shape aside from some scratches on the PS rear door, with none of that seat leather tearing like I saw on so many other ones for sale. The dash had been replaced under warranty, the tires were relatively new, and he had just spent $3,000+ having the 120k service done. We paid $7,000 for our FX, and we couldn't be happier! My wife is only 5'-2", so visibility leaves a little to be desired, but she's getting used to it. Even for me, it's tough to tell where the corners of the hood are! The car is pretty well loaded with Touring, hands-free, Technology, and LDW packages.

Here's a list of things I need to fix or do:
-Buy an OEM rubber cargo floor mat ($65 at local dealer)
-Install a new rear wiper motor (going to use aftermarket, current one is dead)
-Remove FX35 rear badge
-Repair/replace front PS door speaker, no sound
-Repair Bose amp, sub cuts out
-Figure out good way to install aux cable for stereo
-Tint front windows 50% (legal for VA)
-Remove roof rails
-Adjust parking brake
-Detail the crap out of the whole car
-Clean up all grounds in engine bay

Eventual mods will likely include:
-BC coilovers to replace the original 120k shocks/struts
-Some 20-25mm wheel spacers. I want to replace the weak stock studs with longer ARP studs and non-bolt-on spacers. What are my options?
-OEM 20s when it needs new tires
-Sport package pedals?

Pics! It's absolutely filthy, but not for long!

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More to come soon!

hello brothers
i hope someone cane correct me with the infiniti fx35 AWD 2007 model transmission return line i confused about the too line one in the right side
and one in the left side
the passenger side have long hose
and the driver side have short hose
so which one is the return line
please can any body do the transmission flushing

 

[95maxrider]

hello brothers
i hope someone cane correct me with the infiniti fx35 AWD 2007 model transmission return line i confused about the too line one in the right side
and one in the left side
the passenger side have long hose
and the driver side have short hose
so which one is the return line
please can any body do the transmission flushing

I recommend you download the factory service manual (for free online) for the automatic transmission for your year FX, it has a section that describes exactly what to do. I'm looking at it now and it looks like the inlet is on the right/passenger side (for US vehicles) and the outlet is on the left/driver side.