Wheel Stud Knurl

OK, I've written and rewritten this post several times in the last couple days and I've come to the conclusion that i should probably omit the assumptions and opinions in favor of the facts or at least the undisputed assumptions. I do have opinions on the subject but the bottom line is that without stress testing and or spectro analysis on a particular offering from a particular manufacturer its impossible to determine the composition of the materials used and thus, it is impossible to determine just how strong is each available option. If for example, Ichiba sourced their studs from ARP, and pressed them into an 8090 aluminum spacer, then I would probably be wrong about this whole thing. Their spacers would also cost a grand...but I digress.

I'd also like to reiterate the fact that I am NOT a mechanical engineer, nor have I done any tests or analysis of any kind on any studs or spacers. That said, here are my thoughts:

Fact #1: Loads of people in the real world run both versions of the spacers (bolt-in and bolt-through) and very few have any issues of any kind.

Fact #2: bolt-through are better... :p (I kid, I kid)

Undisputed assumption #1: When all the lug nuts are tight, both versions will serve their purpose in normal driving conditions equally well.

Undisputed assumption #2: Lugs that are accessible without having to remove the wheel are easier to tighten/re-tighten after seating.

Without proper analysis, the only argument I'm left with is that a fewer number of lug nuts are just easier to deal with, hands down. Add to that the facts the half of the nuts used in the bolt-in version are hidden behind the installed wheel, you need wheels with recessions on the bearing surface to avoid trimming your studs, and you can't upgrade the studs, and I'm sold.
 
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