Transmission valve body part number ?

[vhangout]

Hi, I have the 2010 FX35 AWD. 80k miles.
Recently, my car kicks while it almost fully stop,or kicks when the car is not fully stop then pick up the speed right away. The guy told me that I need the valve body replacement.
I went search, but found two different valve body part numbers both fit on the car. The date on the car is 05/10, transmission is RE7R01A. Is there anyone know about this? Please advise
Thanks

 

[LA_DRIVER]

From my research I THINK the difference in parts is due to RWD vs AWD

I used the site Infinitipartsonline.com as you can see the fitments based upon model and years. I would reach out with your VIN just to make sure. Definitely don't take my word for it! ; )

 

[SCY7H3]

Looking up the part numbers, for a 2010 FX35 AWD, there's only one number per side. In general there's only one version per side of the throttle body for the FX35 in this generation. I posted a screenshot below though in case the screenshot does not show, the numbers are as follows:

16119-JK20D (Right Bank) - Latest part number (Previous part number: 16119-JK20B)
16119-JK20C (Left Bank)- Latest part number (Previous part number: 16119-JK20A)

Before you spend money on new throttle bodies, have you tried to clean them followed by the three procedures below? 80K miles doesn't seem that high for a throttle body to fail but then again, I don't know the history of your car so I can't really judge. Mine has way more and I'm still on the original valve bodies. So hopefully this saves you from dropping cash where it's not necessary.

Procedures after throttle body cleaning:

Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Idle Air Volume Learning

I had the same issue a few times before and it ended up being dirty throttle bodies as a result of the oily residue between the flap and throttle housing being sticky causing the flap to catch. It's usually due to the PCV oil vapors and could be a result of using filters like K&N if they're over oiled but are fine if they are oiled correctly. But this wasn't the full issue of my problem and possibly it could be for you as well. While this did correct the issue somewhat, I ended up changing the transmission oil to Motul and I even cleaned the MAF sensors. After all that the car was better than new. I ended up doing a ECU reset after just to give the ECU a clean slate.

My reason for changing the transmission fluid is that even though the dealer says its not meant to be changed ever which is BS, oil does age, does burn (hence the oil cooler in the radiator) and especially on these compact transmissions with lesser capacity of oil compared to the German brands, the oil per the manufacturer of the transmission requires it to be changed every 50,000 miles. I change mine every 50K but if you decide to go on longer, you'll start noticing the transmission hard shifts especially when coming to a stop. In terms of the MAF sensors, those do dirty and if they are not reading correctly the ECU makes bad decisions which also reflect on the transmission acting in ways it shouldn't.

I hope this helps and hopefully you don't have to change your valve bodies because those shouldn't fail unless someone's been messing with them or

 

[vhangout]

From my research I THINK the difference in parts is due to RWD vs AWD

I used the site Infinitipartsonline.com as you can see the fitments based upon model and years. I would reach out with your VIN just to make sure. Definitely don't take my word for it! ; )

Thanks for the information, I did research

From my research I THINK the difference in parts is due to RWD vs AWD

I used the site Infinitipartsonline.com as you can see the fitments based upon model and years. I would reach out with your VIN just to make sure. Definitely don't take my word for it! ; )

Thanks for the information, I did search that website and found two parts numbers before . but I just found the fine print AWD and RWD after you mentioned it.. I will email them to confirm. Thanks

 

[vhangout]

Looking up the part numbers, for a 2010 FX35 AWD, there's only one number per side. In general there's only one version per side of the throttle body for the FX35 in this generation. I posted a screenshot below though in case the screenshot does not show, the numbers are as follows:

16119-JK20D (Right Bank) - Latest part number (Previous part number: 16119-JK20B)
16119-JK20C (Left Bank)- Latest part number (Previous part number: 16119-JK20A)

Before you spend money on new throttle bodies, have you tried to clean them followed by the three procedures below? 80K miles doesn't seem that high for a throttle body to fail but then again, I don't know the history of your car so I can't really judge. Mine has way more and I'm still on the original valve bodies. So hopefully this saves you from dropping cash where it's not necessary.

Procedures after throttle body cleaning:

Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Idle Air Volume Learning

I had the same issue a few times before and it ended up being dirty throttle bodies as a result of the oily residue between the flap and throttle housing being sticky causing the flap to catch. It's usually due to the PCV oil vapors and could be a result of using filters like K&N if they're over oiled but are fine if they are oiled correctly. But this wasn't the full issue of my problem and possibly it could be for you as well. While this did correct the issue somewhat, I ended up changing the transmission oil to Motul and I even cleaned the MAF sensors. After all that the car was better than new. I ended up doing a ECU reset after just to give the ECU a clean slate.

My reason for changing the transmission fluid is that even though the dealer says its not meant to be changed ever which is BS, oil does age, does burn (hence the oil cooler in the radiator) and especially on these compact transmissions with lesser capacity of oil compared to the German brands, the oil per the manufacturer of the transmission requires it to be changed every 50,000 miles. I change mine every 50K but if you decide to go on longer, you'll start noticing the transmission hard shifts especially when coming to a stop. In terms of the MAF sensors, those do dirty and if they are not reading correctly the ECU makes bad decisions which also reflect on the transmission acting in ways it shouldn't.

I hope this helps and hopefully you don't have to change your valve bodies because those shouldn't fail unless someone's been messing with them or

View attachment 607986

Thanks for the information, I am looking for the part number for the valve body inside the transmission, since it not down shift well now.

 

[SCY7H3]

Thanks for the information, I am looking for the part number for the valve body inside the transmission, since it not down shift well now.

lol, oh man I misread this post, was multi-tasking. I was thinking throttle valve body but hey, maybe this info might be useful one day.

But looking at the valve body for the transmission, even if I filter by your exact vehicle, it comes up with multiple part numbers and some of the other sites have slightly different results. As LA_DRIVER mentioned, best to call the dealership and have them look it up by VIN. Infiniti tends to change part numbers around and what can be found on part sites can be outdated at this point. To be safe, I'd call two different dealerships to see if they give you the same info.

 

[aquib]

Looking up the part numbers, for a 2010 FX35 AWD, there's only one number per side. In general there's only one version per side of the throttle body for the FX35 in this generation. I posted a screenshot below though in case the screenshot does not show, the numbers are as follows:

16119-JK20D (Right Bank) - Latest part number (Previous part number: 16119-JK20B)
16119-JK20C (Left Bank)- Latest part number (Previous part number: 16119-JK20A)

Before you spend money on new throttle bodies, have you tried to clean them followed by the three procedures below? 80K miles doesn't seem that high for a throttle body to fail but then again, I don't know the history of your car so I can't really judge. Mine has way more and I'm still on the original valve bodies. So hopefully this saves you from dropping cash where it's not necessary.

Procedures after throttle body cleaning:

Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Idle Air Volume Learning

I had the same issue a few times before and it ended up being dirty throttle bodies as a result of the oily residue between the flap and throttle housing being sticky causing the flap to catch. It's usually due to the PCV oil vapors and could be a result of using filters like K&N if they're over oiled but are fine if they are oiled correctly. But this wasn't the full issue of my problem and possibly it could be for you as well. While this did correct the issue somewhat, I ended up changing the transmission oil to Motul and I even cleaned the MAF sensors. After all that the car was better than new. I ended up doing a ECU reset after just to give the ECU a clean slate.

My reason for changing the transmission fluid is that even though the dealer says its not meant to be changed ever which is BS, oil does age, does burn (hence the oil cooler in the radiator) and especially on these compact transmissions with lesser capacity of oil compared to the German brands, the oil per the manufacturer of the transmission requires it to be changed every 50,000 miles. I change mine every 50K but if you decide to go on longer, you'll start noticing the transmission hard shifts especially when coming to a stop. In terms of the MAF sensors, those do dirty and if they are not reading correctly the ECU makes bad decisions which also reflect on the transmission acting in ways it shouldn't.

I hope this helps and hopefully you don't have to change your valve bodies because those shouldn't fail unless someone's been messing with them or

View attachment 607986

I am having similar issue and your procedure makes sense before going into VB change. Mine is at 245K Kms and is 2010 model. Car runs smooth in high gears. Only when I come to a stop I see the car kicks at 1 RPM. and then comes to a halt.
Only issue with that rpm reducing at 1 otherwise its fine.

Could you please explain more how to do the 3 steps? because cleaning looks easy, its the learning steps which is not clear how to do it.

BTW which country are you from?
Thanks again.