I went to change my transmission fluid today and noticed a leak coming from behind the engine. I think it may be the main rear engine seal. Does anyone have any experience or heard of this issue. 2006 fx35 RWD. Last year I had a leak from the oil cooler ring, which I replaced and has been good since then. Every time I change my oil it is 1.5 to 2 quarts low and I change it every 2,700-3,000 miles. For a while I was bringing it to a mechanic so I didn't have to do the oil changes and I don't think they were changing the filter. One day my oil light came on and the oil was sludged up. Every since this happened I went back to doing it myself. Car runs great except for this leak. I have just been keeping an eye on the levels.
oil leak behind engine
- Thread starter charlz
- Start date
WiND DANCE
Member
- Location
- Central Valley CA
- Car
- 2005 FX35
Check for oil on the spark plug on coil 6, most failures occur there. Most likely a leak from the valve cover seals.
Larsin
Member
- Location
- United States
- Name
- L MORAES
I just picked up my 04 FX45 with 102,xxx miles from the dealership this past Monday and it had the same issue. First I started noticing a burnt oil smell then started noticing the oil level going down. The dealership found three leaks:
1) The valve cover gaskets which you could see the oil leaks just from looking into the engine bay
Dealership fixed it for $703.
2) Oil cooler seal
Dealership fixed it for $304.
3) Dealership also said the rear main valve is leaking however I have a cousin in another State that has a repair shop and he tells me that it is very common in a case like mine for the dealer to recommend me to repair the rear main valve ALONG with the valve cover gaskets because the dealer wants to play it safe and not get stuck in a situation where I had the valve cover gaskets repaired and the engine still leaking so the dealer is pretty much saying "fix everything". Dealer wanted $1,902 to repair the rear main valve since the transmission would have to come out.
My cousin though recommended I only fixed the valve cover gasket and the oil seal cooler and wait to see if the rear main valve leaks after that so that's what I did. I had the dealer repair the valve cover gaskets and the oil cooler seal and I am going to be watching the oil level closely. If I start losing oil again and I still see leaks coming from under the car, then I would have no choice but to get the rear main valve fixed.
1) The valve cover gaskets which you could see the oil leaks just from looking into the engine bay
Dealership fixed it for $703.
2) Oil cooler seal
Dealership fixed it for $304.
3) Dealership also said the rear main valve is leaking however I have a cousin in another State that has a repair shop and he tells me that it is very common in a case like mine for the dealer to recommend me to repair the rear main valve ALONG with the valve cover gaskets because the dealer wants to play it safe and not get stuck in a situation where I had the valve cover gaskets repaired and the engine still leaking so the dealer is pretty much saying "fix everything". Dealer wanted $1,902 to repair the rear main valve since the transmission would have to come out.
My cousin though recommended I only fixed the valve cover gasket and the oil seal cooler and wait to see if the rear main valve leaks after that so that's what I did. I had the dealer repair the valve cover gaskets and the oil cooler seal and I am going to be watching the oil level closely. If I start losing oil again and I still see leaks coming from under the car, then I would have no choice but to get the rear main valve fixed.
Last edited:
- Location
- Atlanta, GA
- Car
- 2007 FX35
So you bought the car on Monday with those issues? Did the same dealership that sold you the car perform the work? That seems kind of sketchy.
Larsin
Member
- Location
- United States
- Name
- L MORAES
Oh no, I have owned my FX since 2006. By saying "I just picked up my car from the dealership this past Monday...." I meant that the dealership kept my car for a week and put me on a loaner (the least they could do right) while they repaired the FX.
Last edited:
Renhalt
Member
- Location
- Lexington, KY
- Car
- 2008 fx35
Me personally I would fix the leaks myself, but i also understand taking it to have it done if you don't have, time,knowledge, space, tools, ect. To find the leak is the first step that you can do yourself very easily and will save you money from the money hungry stealership. Here is what I do!
To find a leak:
(1) Go to Walmart and get 1-2 purple spray bottles of castrol super clean (degreaser) or walmart equivalent which will be in a purple bottle as well. Don't waste your money on gunk or that kinda crap because it doesn't work as well.
(2) Put on an old pair of shoes, pants, jacket grab a pair of safety glasses and go to your local coin spray off car wash. Pop the hood with the engine OFF, if you have any poloshed alluminum like a strutbar simply put blue making tape over it before start as it may discolor the alluminum. Now put your glasses on and spray the degreaser all over the motor paying special attention to where you think the leak is located. Spray underneath on the tranny, wheel wells, wherever you need too or where there's gunk. Then take the high powered riinse and hose it off. Close the hood, start the car and drive as normal.
(3) If you do not have one, buy a GOOD small flashlight and one of those cheap telescopic mirrors that they often sell at the autozone checkout where the tire gauges, key chains and other junk is usually located. Drive the car a day or two and pop the hood and start inspecting. By the way, you will notice the motor and engine compartment is spotless and you can again read all your stickers and labels that were covered with grime before.
(4) Once you have found the leak/leaks repair or have them repaired and detail the way I describe below and you will now have a nice shiny leak free motor!
Now some will say that you shouldn't spray anything like that on your motor as it will cause electrical problems. So obviously use common sense and don't go crazy spraying water in the alternator motor or fuse box or anything. Also don't go crazy spraying degreaser around the pully bearings as it will wash the grease out. Keep in mind the motor whether we want to believe it or not is water resistant to a certain degree. Again, just use common sense.
I have been doing this for years, without any issue ever! From outboard boat motors, motorcycles, and EVERY car I've ever owned including my current FX and BMW. I also use the same method to detail up a used car or to clean my own. When detailing the motor I do the same thing as above the only difference is after I rinse it at the car wash I spray a whole can of hilco lube all over the entire engine and compartment (hilco lube which is actually a spray marketed in the jetski industry) you Florida guys should be able to find it a any jet ski shop. But for those of you who can't, buy the cheap lime green bottle of auto-zone tire shine. The pump stuff not the spray, it works just as well the only difference is the hilco lube is non conductive and smells good.
Open the hood the next day and it looks like it should be spinning on a pedestal in the showroom! No gunk, no dust, no grease, oil or permanent residue and will stay like that for months! I hope this will help you or someone else here. Good luck and enjoy!
To find a leak:
(1) Go to Walmart and get 1-2 purple spray bottles of castrol super clean (degreaser) or walmart equivalent which will be in a purple bottle as well. Don't waste your money on gunk or that kinda crap because it doesn't work as well.
(2) Put on an old pair of shoes, pants, jacket grab a pair of safety glasses and go to your local coin spray off car wash. Pop the hood with the engine OFF, if you have any poloshed alluminum like a strutbar simply put blue making tape over it before start as it may discolor the alluminum. Now put your glasses on and spray the degreaser all over the motor paying special attention to where you think the leak is located. Spray underneath on the tranny, wheel wells, wherever you need too or where there's gunk. Then take the high powered riinse and hose it off. Close the hood, start the car and drive as normal.
(3) If you do not have one, buy a GOOD small flashlight and one of those cheap telescopic mirrors that they often sell at the autozone checkout where the tire gauges, key chains and other junk is usually located. Drive the car a day or two and pop the hood and start inspecting. By the way, you will notice the motor and engine compartment is spotless and you can again read all your stickers and labels that were covered with grime before.
(4) Once you have found the leak/leaks repair or have them repaired and detail the way I describe below and you will now have a nice shiny leak free motor!
Now some will say that you shouldn't spray anything like that on your motor as it will cause electrical problems. So obviously use common sense and don't go crazy spraying water in the alternator motor or fuse box or anything. Also don't go crazy spraying degreaser around the pully bearings as it will wash the grease out. Keep in mind the motor whether we want to believe it or not is water resistant to a certain degree. Again, just use common sense.
I have been doing this for years, without any issue ever! From outboard boat motors, motorcycles, and EVERY car I've ever owned including my current FX and BMW. I also use the same method to detail up a used car or to clean my own. When detailing the motor I do the same thing as above the only difference is after I rinse it at the car wash I spray a whole can of hilco lube all over the entire engine and compartment (hilco lube which is actually a spray marketed in the jetski industry) you Florida guys should be able to find it a any jet ski shop. But for those of you who can't, buy the cheap lime green bottle of auto-zone tire shine. The pump stuff not the spray, it works just as well the only difference is the hilco lube is non conductive and smells good.
Open the hood the next day and it looks like it should be spinning on a pedestal in the showroom! No gunk, no dust, no grease, oil or permanent residue and will stay like that for months! I hope this will help you or someone else here. Good luck and enjoy!
Last edited:
WiND DANCE
Member
- Location
- Central Valley CA
- Car
- 2005 FX35
What sucks it's the oil cooler ring seal is $5 and takes 20mins.
Larsin
Member
- Location
- United States
- Name
- L MORAES
Just an UPDATE: It's been over a week now and the rear main valve isn't leaking and the engine isn't losing oil any longer. So just as my cousin warned, it appears the dealership wanted me to change everything to "play it safe" so hope this helps someone out there because as it is currently, my cousin just saved me $1,900.
UFUOMA
Member
- Location
- Port Harcourt
I recently noticed fumes from the middle of my car when I stop due to traffic, it seems some oily fluid are on the exhaust.What fluid could be leaking into the exhaust?