so many guys get baffled with offset but it really is quite simple... on the fx itself the center point of reference is exactly at the mounting surface of the wheel, the face of the rotor/hub... on the wheel the center point is the rear face of the wheel center, where it meets the hub/rotor.... how ever much this rear face of the wheel mounting surface differs from exact center of the whole wheel is offset, + means offset to the inside... your analogy of the wheel center staying in place while the barrel moves in & out is essentially correct, like viet says technically not the wheel center, but the mounting surface which of course is part of the wheel center...
to take this one step further you can see how a 10" wheel with a +40 offset would be exactly the same as a stock 8" with the same +40 offset, EXCEPT the 10" wheel will stick out an extra inch(25mm) & also stick IN the same 1"(25mm) because it is centered the same +40... had you wanted to use a 10" rim AND if you wanted to have the outside sit exactly where the stockers sit now, then you would have to add +25mm(1/2 the difference in width) to the offset to have it be the same at the outside, so technically a 10" rim with a +65mm offset would sit exactly where the stock one sits at the outside lip... again, it's generally thought to be best to space the wheels out a bit from the stock position which is a bit tucked...
in general to get a flushish fit you want the outer lip to be ~20-25mm more than stock, so armed with this knowledge & knowing the factory fitment it's pretty simple to calculate offset & what it will do to fitment...
it is generally accepted that the stock fx wheel fitment can take up to another 25mm or so sticking out to be considered ~flush, so a 10" wheel with +40 offset would give you a flush fitment, stick out 1" past stock fitment, & also stick in the same 1", which there is enough room for...