aordonio
Member
- Location
- United States
- Name
- Andre Ordonio
Infiniti FX Bose Stereo Overhaul
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipNhD_7W8O2Uy3DgAeeOZ5YereoNlv4_funQ2XEa
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipMRK4xewlLWcjeuCzjEzNpIoUI3qUB8SFt1Jlzz
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipNbkbTN4AhXKO87lxy542X7LBc99KlaDKnVe999
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipPWcZZzzfgmEx0GebJKZCWvr1Vxms29hyjQaLVZ
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipP-Ag1eAYCViM0Q0pGOvcPsFGqzChlW6J9hC7Xu
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipM6NB-xUvGEb7InOrdBArLSviuvIiXBCynouegB
I've read all the great threads out there about stereo upgrades to the existing Bose system and the desire for many overhaul the OEM system. I know folks have some strong opions about this subject and sound is pretty subjective (you don't know what you don't know) but I upgraded my unit b/c it was on it's last leg. The OEM Unit worked 40% of the time (sometimes, the sound would be normal but then it would cutover to poor quality sounding as if the bass and treble were set at -MAX all a sudden; not to mention my dash speakers were cracked and crackling at times. I'm in my mid-30s, I'm not looking to set of any car alarms with my sound system, win any stereo competitions, however, I do appreciate high fidelity sound (solid mids and highs and ample bass to fill the space).
My installation components are not high end by any regard (Pioneer, Kicker, Kenwood) as I've had these brands or similar before and have been pleased. I wanted to keep my budget under $1k given I feel a little guilty spending money on non-critical hobbies.
Based on all the information on the various threads and my experience, I assembled my installation details below including logic behind each of my stereo component choices including placement. I have some great interior, electrical etc documentation that provides assembly/dissably details (if you plan on such an overhaul). See References section.
BUILD (prices provided are a range of what I see in the market as of Sept 2012) // note many discounts available to get even cheaper:
Headunit (HU): Pioneer-DEH9400
Background/Logic: OEM Bose Head Unit or Amp was bad (planned for worst case scenario) knowing that I'm ready for complete overhaul. I was fond of the "pioneers" who installed their afternmarkt single din unit where the clock was (since this is the only area you can install an aftermarket single-din unit, without altering the OEM stereo placement). I wanted to retain the OEM screen, non-stereo related functionality if possible).
Behind the clock is ample space for installing a single din unit - including breathing room for the unit for heat dissapation. It's close enough to major power sources for the connection sources and it had enough room for the AXXESS unit (similar to PAC, to retain steering wheel stereo control). The challenging part here is "macgyvering" a way to secure the headunit and creating your own stereo bezel (via the OEM part that was original the bezel for the clock).
A new HU (the source of it all) would allow me to start with a clean signal and gain many of the new features available today (such as bluetooth and Pandora to name a few). Since it's an aftermarket unit, I want it to look OEM as possible (fit and finish, aesthetics, and color display).
Requirements:
Single Din, *Multicolor display so it would look oem (amber/orange, Pioneer's "Coral" color matches well to Infiniti's amber display), Bluetooth, CD/mp3, HD Radio, Pandora, Iphone connection, ability to use OEM Steering Wheel Controls, >4v pre-amp outputs, reputable brand etc.
Front Speakers: Pioneer ($100-$149)
Size: 6.75 (6 3/4")
Logic:
Front door speaker cut-outs are somewhat oval in shape. No aftermarket speakers (to my knowledge) will plug-and-play Thespeaker mounts are unique to Bose (3 holes) and for the front doors, are rather oval in shape. If insalling aftermarket speakers, will have to make an adapter ring. I started this process with cardboard and learned that I didn't need it!
The Pioneer are oversized 6.5 (6.75) and Pioneer includes a Pioneer ADAPTER RING - these by conincidence allow these speakers to be mounted to the FX's door (simply by drilling new holes around the speaker opening (usin the adapter ring as a template - see exhibit 3. This made the process EASY and GOLDEN.
I used metal like tape (used for HVAC purposes), to seal any small wholes (example, seal up oem speaker screw hole).
My MBQuarts came with foam mounting tape for optimal mounting, I found a similar product from Home Depot that does the same job - see exhibit 4. I used this one side foam tape to place a seal between the speaker mounting ring and the door.
The Pioneer component Boxes are small (in comparison to the MBQuart units - maybe half the size, and the MBQuarts I installed in my BMW were only 5.25")! It was easy to find a home for these towards the middle of the door. To identify optimal location, secure the component box in the target area (with painters tape), place the interior door panel without securing, lay on floor, look up to ensure everything clears (ie component box + wires is preventing door panel from being flush). Since the doors are constantly being opened and slammed, we used 3m double sized tape and 2 screws to mount.
Tweeter: Pioneer (included in the Pioneer component set)
Size: 1 inch (1")
The OEM tweeters are on the dash and I've heard mixed reviews of mounting tweeters more than 12" from the midrange speaker. Instead of risking that route and being dissapointed, I decided to do a flush mount tweeter installation (placing the tweeter near the door handle). I got this idea from another thread out there! To install, identify optimal location and use hole drill bit 1.75" to install. Once the door panels are off, identify your target location - a flat surface will give the most flush mount - drill a small pilot hole to identify approx location as well as prepare a center point for your hole drill. Drill slowly, until you start seeing the interior material from the interior - i drilled 99% of the plastic out, and used a razor to get the last piece out. Take your time here - you want to find the optimal placement and not damage your panels.
Rear Speakers: Same as above
Logic:
Same speaker as fronts, did similar install as front speakers keeping in mind that I wanted the tweeter to be near the mid speaker).
Front Dash Speaker: JL JL Audio C2-350x
Evolution™ C2 Series 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers
This was a last minute addition; one of the vendors I purchased from via Amazon issued me a $25 voucher for signing up for their newsletter. Their 3.5 speakers to happen to be marked up only $10 more than some of the online stereo sites I purchased from so I pulled the trigger on these (knowing I had an old amp to power them)! I don't think these are required but what the heck.
Subwoofer: Kicker
I wanted to avoid removing the spare tire but I had to weigh my options. I would rather loose my spare or place spare on top of floor board than to have my sub mounted in plain view (I don't have the tonneau cover, haven't been able to secure one used and will not pay $375+ for it). I also needed plenty of space for my amps and cap etc. With that said, I removed the spare including the plastic framing around it. This created a large space in which my custom subwoofer enclosure could be placed as well as amplifiers.
Given the contours / slope of the floor, the placement that would allow the mose simplest of subwoofer box builds (rectangle) would be towards the rear bumper. Dimensions were
Given the shallow requirements, the box could not be more than 7" in depth, leaving 5.5" of room for the speaker if using 3/4 MDF (7-1.5). This left me with shallow mount sub options. I choose Kicker b/c the range of sealed and ported enclosures was much more broad and I've had great success with other Kicker subwoofers and enclosures on my other builds. Based on the dimensions, the box volume would be around 1 cubic ft.
Gear:
Powering 4 component sets (door speakers)
Kenwood-8104
60x4 @ 4ohm
Powering Sub
Kenwood-8105
500 @ 2ohm
Subwoofer
Kicker 12CVT, 2OHM (single voice)
RMS / Peak
Powering 2 3.5" dash speakers
Pioneer
60x2 @ 4ohm
Capacitor:
2 Farad
Enclosure:
Fabricated from MDF
Dimensions 33.5 x 16 x 7
Wiring:
Power wire from battery was easy (there are other threads out there about this). I used 2 guage, it would be very difficult to use any smaller guages b/c 2 guage was very tight when it came to running it along the floor door panels; any larger wires would not tuck under the panel. I used about 12-14 feet to get the 2 guage wire to the rear of the car (behind the seat). My 2 guage was 17 feet and it was plenty. I used the leftover for the sub amp etc.
Remote Wire: ran the remote wire under the center console (since the center console was out)
RCA: Stinger 3 pair set, ran under the center console, carpet (I purchased 20 feet set, which was way too much, only need 12 feet if running under center console, rear carpet).
Speaker Wire: Utilized OEM (using wiring diagrams to identify what goes where)
Installation Tips:
Compared to a German car, the Infiniti was easy, many screws/bolts are the same size (made it easy). I believe my buddy Mark and I spent 6 full days on this project (this was over a period of 3 weeks since we both work full time and manage family activities on the weekend). For the most part, tackled in stages so that the car could always be driven if needed.
1) identify scope, create phases and secure materials accordingly
2) get all the wiring diagrams, pre-label all the wires needed (links provided in Reference section).
3) I think there are two antennas, standared -and- amplified on the top of rear glass (that one is always powered on (low wattage) / i used this connection for deck (for constant power source) - test with voltmeter
4) use a panel removal tool
5) have a buddy help with the panels (someone to hold panel while other disconnects the connections)
Installation Tools:
-Soldering Iron
-Panel removal tool
-Appropriate saw (skill, band, table) if doing any cutting
-Screwdriver, wrenches etc
-Voltmeter
Lessons Learned:
If you want to add remote start . . . this is the time to do it. I should have installed the remote start module while I had everything open!
---------- Post added at 04:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 AM ----------
I'll post more pictures and diy info soon / lots of those pictures were during the build . . . it's all cleaned up and wrapped nicely now =)
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipNhD_7W8O2Uy3DgAeeOZ5YereoNlv4_funQ2XEa
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipMRK4xewlLWcjeuCzjEzNpIoUI3qUB8SFt1Jlzz
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipNbkbTN4AhXKO87lxy542X7LBc99KlaDKnVe999
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipPWcZZzzfgmEx0GebJKZCWvr1Vxms29hyjQaLVZ
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipP-Ag1eAYCViM0Q0pGOvcPsFGqzChlW6J9hC7Xu
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipM6NB-xUvGEb7InOrdBArLSviuvIiXBCynouegB
I've read all the great threads out there about stereo upgrades to the existing Bose system and the desire for many overhaul the OEM system. I know folks have some strong opions about this subject and sound is pretty subjective (you don't know what you don't know) but I upgraded my unit b/c it was on it's last leg. The OEM Unit worked 40% of the time (sometimes, the sound would be normal but then it would cutover to poor quality sounding as if the bass and treble were set at -MAX all a sudden; not to mention my dash speakers were cracked and crackling at times. I'm in my mid-30s, I'm not looking to set of any car alarms with my sound system, win any stereo competitions, however, I do appreciate high fidelity sound (solid mids and highs and ample bass to fill the space).
My installation components are not high end by any regard (Pioneer, Kicker, Kenwood) as I've had these brands or similar before and have been pleased. I wanted to keep my budget under $1k given I feel a little guilty spending money on non-critical hobbies.
Based on all the information on the various threads and my experience, I assembled my installation details below including logic behind each of my stereo component choices including placement. I have some great interior, electrical etc documentation that provides assembly/dissably details (if you plan on such an overhaul). See References section.
BUILD (prices provided are a range of what I see in the market as of Sept 2012) // note many discounts available to get even cheaper:
Headunit (HU): Pioneer-DEH9400
Background/Logic: OEM Bose Head Unit or Amp was bad (planned for worst case scenario) knowing that I'm ready for complete overhaul. I was fond of the "pioneers" who installed their afternmarkt single din unit where the clock was (since this is the only area you can install an aftermarket single-din unit, without altering the OEM stereo placement). I wanted to retain the OEM screen, non-stereo related functionality if possible).
Behind the clock is ample space for installing a single din unit - including breathing room for the unit for heat dissapation. It's close enough to major power sources for the connection sources and it had enough room for the AXXESS unit (similar to PAC, to retain steering wheel stereo control). The challenging part here is "macgyvering" a way to secure the headunit and creating your own stereo bezel (via the OEM part that was original the bezel for the clock).
A new HU (the source of it all) would allow me to start with a clean signal and gain many of the new features available today (such as bluetooth and Pandora to name a few). Since it's an aftermarket unit, I want it to look OEM as possible (fit and finish, aesthetics, and color display).
Requirements:
Single Din, *Multicolor display so it would look oem (amber/orange, Pioneer's "Coral" color matches well to Infiniti's amber display), Bluetooth, CD/mp3, HD Radio, Pandora, Iphone connection, ability to use OEM Steering Wheel Controls, >4v pre-amp outputs, reputable brand etc.
Front Speakers: Pioneer ($100-$149)
Size: 6.75 (6 3/4")
Logic:
Front door speaker cut-outs are somewhat oval in shape. No aftermarket speakers (to my knowledge) will plug-and-play Thespeaker mounts are unique to Bose (3 holes) and for the front doors, are rather oval in shape. If insalling aftermarket speakers, will have to make an adapter ring. I started this process with cardboard and learned that I didn't need it!
The Pioneer are oversized 6.5 (6.75) and Pioneer includes a Pioneer ADAPTER RING - these by conincidence allow these speakers to be mounted to the FX's door (simply by drilling new holes around the speaker opening (usin the adapter ring as a template - see exhibit 3. This made the process EASY and GOLDEN.
I used metal like tape (used for HVAC purposes), to seal any small wholes (example, seal up oem speaker screw hole).
My MBQuarts came with foam mounting tape for optimal mounting, I found a similar product from Home Depot that does the same job - see exhibit 4. I used this one side foam tape to place a seal between the speaker mounting ring and the door.
The Pioneer component Boxes are small (in comparison to the MBQuart units - maybe half the size, and the MBQuarts I installed in my BMW were only 5.25")! It was easy to find a home for these towards the middle of the door. To identify optimal location, secure the component box in the target area (with painters tape), place the interior door panel without securing, lay on floor, look up to ensure everything clears (ie component box + wires is preventing door panel from being flush). Since the doors are constantly being opened and slammed, we used 3m double sized tape and 2 screws to mount.
Tweeter: Pioneer (included in the Pioneer component set)
Size: 1 inch (1")
The OEM tweeters are on the dash and I've heard mixed reviews of mounting tweeters more than 12" from the midrange speaker. Instead of risking that route and being dissapointed, I decided to do a flush mount tweeter installation (placing the tweeter near the door handle). I got this idea from another thread out there! To install, identify optimal location and use hole drill bit 1.75" to install. Once the door panels are off, identify your target location - a flat surface will give the most flush mount - drill a small pilot hole to identify approx location as well as prepare a center point for your hole drill. Drill slowly, until you start seeing the interior material from the interior - i drilled 99% of the plastic out, and used a razor to get the last piece out. Take your time here - you want to find the optimal placement and not damage your panels.
Rear Speakers: Same as above
Logic:
Same speaker as fronts, did similar install as front speakers keeping in mind that I wanted the tweeter to be near the mid speaker).
Front Dash Speaker: JL JL Audio C2-350x
Evolution™ C2 Series 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers
This was a last minute addition; one of the vendors I purchased from via Amazon issued me a $25 voucher for signing up for their newsletter. Their 3.5 speakers to happen to be marked up only $10 more than some of the online stereo sites I purchased from so I pulled the trigger on these (knowing I had an old amp to power them)! I don't think these are required but what the heck.
Subwoofer: Kicker
I wanted to avoid removing the spare tire but I had to weigh my options. I would rather loose my spare or place spare on top of floor board than to have my sub mounted in plain view (I don't have the tonneau cover, haven't been able to secure one used and will not pay $375+ for it). I also needed plenty of space for my amps and cap etc. With that said, I removed the spare including the plastic framing around it. This created a large space in which my custom subwoofer enclosure could be placed as well as amplifiers.
Given the contours / slope of the floor, the placement that would allow the mose simplest of subwoofer box builds (rectangle) would be towards the rear bumper. Dimensions were
Given the shallow requirements, the box could not be more than 7" in depth, leaving 5.5" of room for the speaker if using 3/4 MDF (7-1.5). This left me with shallow mount sub options. I choose Kicker b/c the range of sealed and ported enclosures was much more broad and I've had great success with other Kicker subwoofers and enclosures on my other builds. Based on the dimensions, the box volume would be around 1 cubic ft.
Gear:
Powering 4 component sets (door speakers)
Kenwood-8104
60x4 @ 4ohm
Powering Sub
Kenwood-8105
500 @ 2ohm
Subwoofer
Kicker 12CVT, 2OHM (single voice)
RMS / Peak
Powering 2 3.5" dash speakers
Pioneer
60x2 @ 4ohm
Capacitor:
2 Farad
Enclosure:
Fabricated from MDF
Dimensions 33.5 x 16 x 7
Wiring:
Power wire from battery was easy (there are other threads out there about this). I used 2 guage, it would be very difficult to use any smaller guages b/c 2 guage was very tight when it came to running it along the floor door panels; any larger wires would not tuck under the panel. I used about 12-14 feet to get the 2 guage wire to the rear of the car (behind the seat). My 2 guage was 17 feet and it was plenty. I used the leftover for the sub amp etc.
Remote Wire: ran the remote wire under the center console (since the center console was out)
RCA: Stinger 3 pair set, ran under the center console, carpet (I purchased 20 feet set, which was way too much, only need 12 feet if running under center console, rear carpet).
Speaker Wire: Utilized OEM (using wiring diagrams to identify what goes where)
Installation Tips:
Compared to a German car, the Infiniti was easy, many screws/bolts are the same size (made it easy). I believe my buddy Mark and I spent 6 full days on this project (this was over a period of 3 weeks since we both work full time and manage family activities on the weekend). For the most part, tackled in stages so that the car could always be driven if needed.
1) identify scope, create phases and secure materials accordingly
2) get all the wiring diagrams, pre-label all the wires needed (links provided in Reference section).
3) I think there are two antennas, standared -and- amplified on the top of rear glass (that one is always powered on (low wattage) / i used this connection for deck (for constant power source) - test with voltmeter
4) use a panel removal tool
5) have a buddy help with the panels (someone to hold panel while other disconnects the connections)
Installation Tools:
-Soldering Iron
-Panel removal tool
-Appropriate saw (skill, band, table) if doing any cutting
-Screwdriver, wrenches etc
-Voltmeter
Lessons Learned:
If you want to add remote start . . . this is the time to do it. I should have installed the remote start module while I had everything open!
---------- Post added at 04:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:22 AM ----------
I'll post more pictures and diy info soon / lots of those pictures were during the build . . . it's all cleaned up and wrapped nicely now =)
Last edited:
