Hi!
Your car seems is on the lower mileage end so it shouldn't need much to get it tuned up.
I've listed a bunch of things that I have done on mine to this point and I'm at around 240k km.
I don't think you need shocks and coils, I've changed mine around 220k km and noticed very little difference.
That clicking sounds like the dreaded axle click. Simple fix with some moly grease and re-positioning the axle 180 degrees from it's original spot. Tightening to spec and done.
You may also need new sway bar links. There's two in the front and two in the back. The fronts go more often. Rears not as much.
What wheel size do you have and are they OEM or aftermarket? I have 20" wheels on mine and that helps. If you have 18" then you'll have a softer ride. If you have 21" then it'll be sporty.
I've installed a front tower sway bar that drastically improved the front end when turning. Might be something worth looking into.
These cars are pretty good with maintenance as long as you keep up with it.
Also where are you located? That can refine a few other maintenance items.
Engine oil + filter
- Depending when you've done it last and what oil is being used, typical oil change is between 5K km to 8K km
- I use Motul 107206 8100 X-Clean EFE 5W30 and it lasts up to 8K km. I've kept it until 10K km but these engines like to burn oil so 8K km is your max for this oil.
- Mobil 1 oil used to be great but when the company changed hands, the oil quality went downhill. Great if on sale, change at 5K km.
- If you use a different oil, the interval can change, I recommend checking the dipstick every so often after the engine has warmed up and using that as your rule.
- I personally use the Mobil M1 M108 filter
- I change my oil filter every second oil change as the filter can last through both. Never had an issue.
- Lastly, every 2 to 3 years I use Motul engine cleaner before I drain the oil oil. You pour it in the old oil, run the engine on idle for 15 minutes (do not drive), then drain and fill with new oil.
Transmission oil (Must be changed every 85K km)
- Transmission oil for these transmission needs to be replaced every 85K km as recommended by the transmission manufacturer.
- You're at 155K km, so it's past that recommended interval but is still within reason to change the fluid. If you hit closer to 200K km, it might be too late.
- These transmissions are built compact which means the oil tends to burn faster.
- Do not believe the manual that states the oil doesn't need to be changed. I'm just going to say it's a political reason with tax savings for Nissan/Infiniti for being green.
- If you don't replace the oil, the transmission oil ends up burning and the transmission wears faster.
- I use Motul ATF VI oil for years, no issues.
Differential oil - Front (If yours is AWD)
- There's not much to talk about here except to change your differential oil on time
- I use MOTUL GEAR 300 75W-90
Differential oil - Rear
- There's not much to talk about here except to change your differential oil on time
- I use MOTUL GEAR 300 75W-90
Transfer case oil (If yours is AWD)
- There's not much to talk about here except to change your differential oil on time
- I use MOTUL ATF VI
Spark plugs
- Change your spark plugs on time, these engines run hot and the plugs burn
- I change mine every 150K km
Engine coolant
- Change your engine coolant on time as the additives in the coolant deteriorate and can cause scale buildup
- I use Nissan/Infiniti's OEM coolant as it's formulated for these engines
- There may be others that are compatible or better but I decided to stick with OEM
Power steering fluid
- Change your power steering fluid
- There's about 1 liter of oil in the entire system
- I use Motul ATF VI
Battery
- Get your battery checked to see if it is due for a change
- If you have the OEM battery, they should last a few years but unfortunately they're not immune to failure.
- Usual lifespan of a good battery is about 5 years
- If your battery is nearing it's end of life, I suggest changing it sooner than later as a weak battery causes excessive wear on the alternator and starter and increases gas consumption as a result.
- When changing the battery don't bother with ones that are AGM. AGM batteries require a different charging circuit which these cars do not have. Using an AGM in these cars will kill the battery and waste your money.
- Depending where you are, if you can get a Panasonic battery or a Japanese battery, definitely go get one of those. Otherwise, stick to a mid class brand and change more often.
Replace engine air filters (2 filters)
- You can use OEM or aftermarket one time use filters
- I use K&N oiled filters
- I know some might say the oil messes with the MAF sensors. I don't over oil my filters so I don't have this issue. There's a way to wash and oil a K&N filter properly.
MAF air sensors (2 sensors total, 1 per intake)
- The MAF sensors should be cleaned using a MAF sensor cleaner.
- With the car off, remove the MAF sensor. Spray the end of the MAF sensor where you see the elements.
- Do not touch the elements when spraying or they might get damaged. The spray evaporates quickly.
- Reinstall the MAF sensors.
Intake Throttle Bodies (2 total, 1 per intake)
- Cleaning these takes a bit of work and precision to not damage them.
- If you're not up for the task, I'd have Infiniti do it or a professional mechanic.
- This requires a throttle body cleaner, paint brush, towels and tools to remove them off the intake plenum
- I do this every 50K km approx.
Cabin air filter (1 filter)
- This one is obvious. I personally change mine every 2 - 3 years but it depends on where you live and how dusty the air gets
- I use OEM but aftermarket works pending it's good quality
Accessory belt (Alternator, A/C, Power Steering)
- I change the belt once I start to see cracking on the grooved side of the belt
- Belts last quite a long time. I changed mine around 100K km.
Wheel alignment (Front & Back)
- I perform a wheel alignment every time I install new tires
- Some say to have the alignment done every so often but through experience I've never had to as the alignment doesn't change.
- Unless you've hit something then that may require the alignment to be checked/adjusted
Wheel rotation (Every 5K km)
- I rotate my wheels every 5K km. I know this is on the more "extreme" side but it pays off towards the end.
- This also depends what your wheel/tire setup is. I have directional tires on a square set of wheels so I rotate front to back and back to front.
- If yours are staggered, meaning wider in the back, there's no rotation possible.
- If yours are square and the tires are omni-directional, then you can criss-cross wheels which works best for this setup.
Brakes (That depends on what condition they are in, if the rotors are straight or warped, if the pads are still good or worn)
- Brakes are one of those things that depends on numerous factors but if you have the OEM factory brakes ( no big brake upgrade ) then those rotors are prone to warping.
- If the rotors are straight and there's no shaking during braking then all you have to do is once a year have the brake pads cleaned and re-lubed. It helps a lot. Allows the brakes to work easier hence making a nicer ride.
- If the rotors are warped, then you'll have to get the rotors replaced and at the same time, replace the pads and re-lube everything.
- One thing to note is that if you are going to re-use the rotors but take them off to clean up the hub, make sure you mark the rotor and the hub so that the rotor goes back as it was. If you install the rotor differently than how it was, there's a good chance you might get shaking.
- One thing to remember here is that rotors mount to a hub that mounts to a bearing. If that bearing has worn in a way that causes a slight vibration, the brake rotor will wear according to the bearing. And if you install the rotor other than how it was, there's a high chance you'll get shaking.
- What I do is using a paint marker, I mark one of the studs end and rotor end before disassembling.
Brake fluid (Bleed all four calipers and pour new fluid as you do this)
- Brake fluid likes to absorb moisture from the air and that air gets into the reservoir tank on the brake master.
- Every time you do a brake job, just have the brakes bled and add in new fluid.
- I use Motul DOT 5.1 synthetic brake fluid. It's backwards compatible.
- But ultimately you can use any brake fluid pending it's DOT 3 or 4 (stay away from silicon based).
Sway bar links (These are the short aluminum things that connect the ends of the sway bars to the suspension)
- These links tend to wear faster in the front versus the back. So for every two times you change the fronts, you'll change the rears
- The clicking may be related to these but I have a feeling it's the dreaded axle click which is fixable just a bit of work
Axles
- There's a scenario that occurs with the axles in these cars where when braking or accelerating you'll hear a momentary click
- The axle needs to be removed from the wheel hub, greased with moly grease, installed 180 degrees from it's original position and installed
- There's a document on this so it has all the details
