Okay so problem is solved officially!
Basically there was a lot of different routes that I could take and I knew deep inside that the obvious answer was most likely the cause however I like to be thorough and therefore I full sent the diagnostics.
I read through the diagram so you dont have to and basically figured out that R2 is a Harness/Wire that id connected to Ground bolt M11 that is behind the dash on the drivers side. R2 is what travels up the pillar and towards the Headliner where there is a Female end connector and the headliners male end connects into it. I ran continuity between all of that and the dome as well as various grounds and to the BCM, TICM, and Grounds in that area. R2 traveling back behind the dash has 2 connectors it splits off into, R7 and R1. R1 I believe supplies the sunroof power and stays on the left hand side of the dash and then goes to the ground bolt there. R7 is what travels the length of the dash towards the BCM and splits off to do its thing around the passenger area behind the dash/glovebox.
SO after doing some perusing, like most vehicles the BCM is in charge of 12v power to most accessories etc and it is in control of the sleep standby functions for lights where they turn on as a courtesy when you open doors etc and the vehicle is not on. The BCM deals with this usually by completing the ground circuit so outside of these parameters the ground is left open. I mention this because when you are testing continuity with BCM or things that may lead to BCM you will see resistance numbers but no beep from your multimeter. This is because it is traveling through a transistor or other scenario where the circuit is broken. SO in Certain model NISSANS and a growing amount of INFINITIs there is this thing called the TICM. Total Illumination Control Module, you'll see other abbreviations for it etc but mainly thats what it is and its in charge of more complicated processes involving the interior lighting of the car. The TICM however does receive its power directly from a wire harness coming from the battery and the BCM is solely there for other logic. Long story short its another complicated part that can fail in a already complicated system, and as we are all reading here it does fail lol. It took me a long time to pinpoint the failure because again I was worried about a missing connection or obscure chewed wire since I did a lot of work to the vehicle and its history BUT that was not the case.
I was able to get my hands on two TICM's today and upon plugging the first one in it immediately worked. THE HEADLINER HAS LIGHT!! I was excited until further along in to my drive I decided to press the button for the lights and it did not come on like it did earlier. I was distraught and a little pissed off but I am no stranger to trouble shooting and thus had a new adventure when I got home. My worst fear was that I blew the new TICM and that I was going to not touch the spare until I was sure what was causing it. I then started to remove the new TICM and it made a clicking noise, then It made a few more and it seemed to be based on the orientation of how I was holding it and the position of the connector. When the TICM would click on the lights would work, any subsequent click would turn it off and then on and so on. So took the old TICM and the new one to my lab and tore it apart to see what was going on. There are two black boxes on the pcb board that are relays and those are what would be making the clicking sound when a connection is made. I wasnt sure why it was going haywire but it was a start. I started testing terminals and everything seemed fine so I couldnt think why it was causing the clicking. I was starting to worry that it was something else causing the TICM to mal-perform such as currupted output from the BCM or IPDM. However after a while of trouble shooting I saw that the connector coming from the vehicle to the TICM you can remove the front face panel and expose the pins, I disconnected the car battery and cleaned the slots with a wire brush and saw that the connector enters and exits a lot more smoothly than before but did not solve my problem. I then decided to try something of a last resort and just like that I installed the TICM, throughout the install it was clicking like crazy but once installed it clicked a final time and I tested the lights and wala, everything was working as intended!! Very greatful to be done with this final dilemma lol and share this information with all of you!! again this could have been the first thing I checked but since other lights were working I figured that it could not be the case. All in all if anyone is experiencing a lighting situation the first thing you should do is mess with the TICM and see if that solves it (Obviously after testing bulbs and finding unplugged connectors).
