Freaking break in...

Exactly..
but you know what, i don't know what the difference is between first gen. G35X with my fx, but that car wasn't broken in even if it was in the same lot. I know it has that window feature as well. So its just the fx maybe?


theMerchant said:
wonder if there is an way to disable the window down feature on the keyhole?

because even with the escutcheon mod, they can still pry it off or poke thru it to get to the key hole.
Click to expand...
 
theMerchant said:
wonder if there is an way to disable the window down feature on the keyhole?

because even with the escutcheon mod, they can still pry it off or poke thru it to get to the key hole.
Click to expand...


WHATTTT
they can put your window down thru the keyhole??

---------- Post added at 11:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 AM ----------
Frankiago said:
Bahahahahaha.... I lol'd :laugh:

http://www.infinitifx.org/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=6474

(shock sensor add-in)

I believe I have 2 shock sensors, I planned on putting one in each fender up front. I haven't done this install yet, don't know what I was waiting on really... but this summer I should have a ton of free time to get MANY things done.
Click to expand...

but what does the shock sensor actually do
shock you if you touch the car while the alarm is on it will shcok the hell out of you?
 
I think the best piece of alarm equipment WE can get is probably piezo tweeters/sirens.

Install about 6-8 of these in your car will make it unbareable to be inside. They omit a very loud high pitch noise INSIDE the vehicle. A smash and grab...or someone doing the window trick wont be able to stay inside the car to grab your stuff.

Honestly, as I said before in dopie's thread...alarms are a false sense of security. How many times do alarm systems go off in a parking lot...and how many times do you even take a look? Even if you have a pager alarm....a smash and grab is already gone by the time you get there. The best thing to do is make it as uncomfortable as possible while they try and break in...piezo tweeters/sirens. Look how loud alarm system sirens are..and that's outside the car...imagine putting a couple of them hidden inside...that's fricken loud!

Every theft/break-in I've seen here...are all smash and grab. Thieves know we have immobilizers, and aren't trying to take the cars...they're looking for the easy grab inside. Try and make it as uncomfortable as possible or nearly impossible to be inside as we can.
 
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Since this is well known problem....I wunder if we can petition nissan/infiniti to fix this.

My 2005 Mazda 3 had a known weakness too....if you kicked the passenger door really hard in a certain spot, "pop" the door unlocked....causing a lot of dented doors. Mazda owners petitioned, and were able to get a fix for this by the factory. Now since mid 2007, all Mazda 3's have this safety device installed....and you can't hit that spot anymore and get the doors to unlock.

Since this is a know weak spot by thieves on the FX.. I wunder if we can do the same.
 
dopie said:
even can we even petition to get the window sensors also?
Click to expand...

Don't think we can get this...this is more of an option.

More of the fact these escutcheon are a crappy design and thieves found an easy way into our cars. BY ROLLING DOWN OUR WINDOWS!! quick and no noise....and really not that much damage...except some small scratches and a broken escutheon.

Dukes of Hazard style in and out...alarm never goes off...unless they open the door to get out....and then they are gone anyways.

---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:12 PM ----------

thread started...

https://www.infinitiscene.com/search/1/?q=showthread.php?p=74169#post74169
 
Man...all i gotta say is the factory alarm system is dookie! I would have figured my car alarm would go off if my car get's towed or gets stabbed by a screw driver! I HATE THE CITY OF COVINA!
 
boarder, that sux man. The school lots are the worst. I've heard about many folks getting jacked at ubc. I went to sfu and no better there either (even in the "reserved" underground lot). My last
car got broken into in my girls apt parking. I was negligent and they got my wallet (first time I've ever lost/misplaced one, fack).
Bottom line is there's just so many friggin crackers and nothing we can do about it except try to park in visible areas and ensure no valuables left in car.
Or buy a case of beer, invite over a few buddies and maybe stay up late one nite and watch a movie in the fx. If by chane u see any shoppers, have a little, um chat w em.

---------- Post added at 03:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:04 PM ----------

btw, ubc sux.
Haha, gotta rep for sfu.
 
jigjag said:
btw, ubc sux.
Haha, gotta rep for sfu.
Click to expand...

Bro so you live in San Francisco?
Thought you are close to me.
yea man..i heard San Franscisco University is pretty good place

Jk..:laugh:

anyways im not into "ubc for life" thing.
Also i don make fun of SFU as all other ubc ppl do.
Afterall, they are all Canadian school.
no one gives a shit what ubc or sfu stand for, or give any appreciation.
i know... its sad reality.
 
Frankiago said:
Aw man there's paint damage :tears:

Feel sorry for ya, I've never had a car of mine broken into *crosses fingers, knocks on wood, whatever superstition I'm missing*

I did do the escutcheon (still don't know where that word came from) and feel a little more secure. I'm adding to the factory alarm... will end up costing me $50 I believe?

There's a way to make the factory alarm include shock sensors, so that bumping, kicking, attempting to break in will signal the factory alarm to sound. It involves adding shock sensors to the fenders on the inside and wire them to the hood alarm. The hood alarm works like the door alarms, in that if the hood shouldn't be opening (ie the car is off and doors are locked) and the hood is opened, it signals the alarm.

The shock sensors simulate the hood being opened when a significant bump hits the car (adjustable sensitivity).
Click to expand...

heres a link to the org's draft write up

http://www.infinitifx.org/viewtopic.php?f=62&t=6474

this has been done here is some info from g35driver

http://g35driver.com/forums/faq-diy/12202-shock-impact-motion-sensor-install-oem-alarm.html

Another Good writeup by RedWillow. We truly appreciate your insights.
-G35driver.com TEAM

I ordered the DEI 504M Stinger Shock Sensor from here:

sensor

25 bucks, shipped. Arrived in 2 days.

It detects impacts, shocks and bumps to the car's exterior. I also believe it would detect any of the glass being broken, since it will go off if any of the windows are bumped or impacted in any way.

It is specifically designed to be used with OEM alarms.
The website specs don't show it, but the sensor DOES have a sensitivity adjustment.

It has 4 wires:
RED: 12v power supply
YELLOW: Ground
GREEN: 1st Stage (warning) Output
BLUE: 2nd Stage (full alarm) Output

I installed it using the hood pin switch, located under the hood by the coolant/washer fluid fills.

Best I can tell, this switch is used only by the OEM alarm to monitor the opening of the hood and trigger the alarm if it is opened. Basically, I just spliced the Shock Sensor into the hood switch output (LT BLUE/TEAL color) wire, so the OEM Alarm is tricked out to think the hood was opened and sound the alarm, whenever the shock sensor is set off.

Arming and disarming functions are still controlled by the OEM Alarm, so when the alarm is monitoring the hood switch, it will also be monitoring the shock sensor.

I also checked to make sure the OEM Alarm resets itself. According to the owner's manual, for the alarm to shut off, the unlock button must be hit on the fob or the key used. In acutality, if the alarm is set off, the lights flash and the horn sounds for about 45 seconds before it shuts itself off and resets, if the fob or key isn't used to disarm it first.

PARTS I USED:

(1) DEI 504M Stinger Shock Sensor
(2) 1amp 200v Diodes Radio Shack p/n IN4003 (DEI instructions show IN4004 but the IN4003 worked fine)
Several Straight Butt Wire Connectors (blue and red color)
(2) Spade Electrical connectors for 20 (ish) gauge wire with a wide spade
5 Feet (approx) of flex black split automotive electrical conduit
Several Black Plastic Zip Ties
(1) 10" piece of extra 20 (ish) gauge wire


Here is a diagram of how I connected this.
NOTE: I found that using both of the sensor outputs spliced together (blue and green wires) provided more sensitivity, even though the OEM alarm does not have the "first stage" warning type feature supported by the sensor.

WIRING IT IN:

#1. First I connected spade connectors to the ends of the yellow and red wires on the sensor. I also used a butt connector to connect the sensor blue wire & green wire to 1 of the diodes (diode 1 in diagram). NOTE: Diodes have a specific direction. The diode's end with the band on it goes to the end of the green and blue sensor wires. Then, I used another butt connector to connect the second diode (diode 2) and the 10" piece of extra wire (purple in the diagream) to the first diode (diode 1). Note that I was connecting the 2 NON BANDED ENDS of the diodes together with the 10" wire, in this step, as shown in the diagram.

#2. I removed the complete battery compartment cover (which is held on by about 5 plastic clips), put the windows down and disconnected the negative battery cable.

NOTE: During the process of installing and testing the sensor, I ended up disconnecting the negative battery cable several times. When I finally finished, my Bose 6 disc changer DID NOT recognize 4 of my 6 discs. After about 15 minutes of frantically pushing eject and load, I was able to get the discs out and revive it. Needless to say, in the future I will be removing all the discs prior to disconnecting the battery.

I also removed the lead wires to the (2) horns located just behind the grill. I was able to disconnect the leads by reaching through the open area by the hood latch and just pulling the connector off of each horn. Since the lights flash when the alarm goes off, I was still able to test the sensor and alarm without having to listen to the horn.

#3. Next I disconnected the 2 wire plug from the bottom of the hood switch. There was some vinyl covering around the 2 wires going into the plug that I cut off to expose the wires. The TEAL/LT BLUE wire is the output wire, this is where I spliced the sensor in. I cut it about 2 inches down from the connector, creating 2 ends: one 2" long going to the switch and the other going down into another bundle of wires.

#4. Using 2 more butt connectors, I connected the remaining end (end with the band) of diode 2 to the 2" end of the TEAL/LT BLUE wire going to the hood switch. To the other TEAL/LT BLUE wire (going into the bundle of wires) I connected the other end of the 10" piece of wire from #1, as shown in the diagram. Then I reconnected the plug to the hood switch and wrapped the diodes and butt connectors up with electrical tape.

#5. Lastly, I connected the Yellow wire from the sensor to a ground. I used one on the body just under/behind the hood switch, shown in the picture. I also ran the RED wire from the sensor to the positive battery terminal and connected it. Then I reconnected the negative battery cable.


MOUNTING THE SENSOR:

I experimented with several different locations to mount the sensor under the hood. Eventually I settled on a small area on the right rear side of the front air duct. There is a small ledge there with 2 holes in it, perfect for mounting the sensor. I used a single zip tie through the hole and around the sensor to fasten it (sensitivity screw facing upward) to the air duct. Then I cut a couple pieces of the conduit to length, crammed all the sensor wires into the conduit and secured it with the zip ties.


TESTING:

I used a 10 lb weight set on top of the hood switch to simulate the hood being closed, while testing. Note that the OEM Alarm system has an approx 20 second arming phase after the keyfob lock button is pressed before the alarm is armed and functional. During this period the Alarm LED is solid red. After it arms, the LED flashes. I tested the sensor by bumping various areas of the car with the system armed to check sensitivity. To adjust the sensitivity on the sensor the small orange screw is turned either clockwise for more sensitivity or counter clockwise for less sensitivity. I have settled on approx 1/3 turn away from fully sensitive with my install method/location.

FINAL NOTES:

It would be better to solder the diode connections and use heat shrink tubing over the connections. I hate soldering so I took the easy way out and used the butt connector/electrical tape method.

The way I have this installed, the sensor itself is on and functioning all the time. However, the OEM alarm will only react to its signal when the alarm is activated. Ideally, the sensor would only be on when the ignition is off or the alarm is armed. Unfortunately, I was not able to find a 12v source for power (under the hood) that is only ON when the ignition is OFF, or a wire that goes to ground ONLY when the ignition is OFF. I checked with some other people who have installed these sensors (on other model cars) in this way and they have told me that the sensor itself being powered all the time has not been a problem in any way.

The purpose of the diodes seems to be to isolate the signals between the sensor and the OEM alarm trigger (the hood switch). Its possible it would work fine without the use of the diodes (didn't try it), but I included them since they are recommended by DEI and only cost 79 cents!

The thought has crossed my mind to install a simple switch on the ground (or 12v power) going to the sensor. This way it could be deactivated any time I want. Maybe something to do the next time I'm bored

There are probably other/better ways to install this, but this is the method that I used. I welcome constructive comments or suggestions.

Bottom line: For around $35 bucks total, I think this is a great little upgrade.
Click to expand...
like this one

http://autotechs.com/cat62.htm

http://store.shopaudiovideo.com/dei504k.html

View attachment 164101
 
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theMerchant said:
heres a link to the org's draft write up
Click to expand...
Yeah man, I already linked that.

The "shock sensor" doesn't SHOCK people or produce an electrical charge to zap unexpected intruders. It is a relay actuated by physical shock (not electrical). So if you bump the car, the factory alarm will be fooled into thinking the hood has been tampered with and somebody is breaking in to your engine bay.

The "body shop" or wherever you go will have no clue what you're talking about as they only deal in aftermarket alarms. This would basically be considered an addition to your OEM/factory alarm. If you want to know more, follow the link to the write-up.
 
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