Engine Oil Flush Service

from

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Which Oil to Use
Engine Flushes--The Latest Scam

Engine flushes pump heated solvent through your engine, supposedly to wash away sludge. But regular oil changes with detergent oil already take care of the sludge problem. And if you actually have an engine that is full of sludge the last thing you want to do is do an engine flush because the sludge can clog the oil passages and destroy the engine completely. These flushes are completely unnecessary. All they do is wash the money out of your wallet. As Click and Clack state: "This is what's known in the business as a "profit center." Something the garage can use to beef up the amount each person spends per visit. So unless you've got a very old car, and are trying to solve a specific, sludge- or carbon-related-problem, I'd skip the R-2000." These engine flushes usually sell for about $130. The victims are people that think that they are doing something nice for their vehicle by cleaning the engine. In fact a dealer or repair shop that tries to sell you an engine flush should be avoided for all service because they are untrustworthy.
 
Don't do an engine oil flush. I heard something about it detroying some kind of seals or weakening them in the engine. Not sure if it's true or not. My friend has a Maxima and had the engine oil flush and he swears that the engine produces alot more valve train noise afterwards. It started happening after the engine oil flush was performed. Must of screwed something up internally to the engine.


One thing I recommend though is doing a full coolant flush at 60,000 miles with Nissan Long Life Blue Antifreeze. They use that BG machine to do it with. When the day comes and I hit 60K miles, I'll have that done.
 
I agree partly with the "myth". Harsh detergents and solvents shouldn't be put through an engine to remove oil; it could damage seals and it strips all lubrication. However, the solution to black sludge isn't "accept it and leave it, because flushing could clog something".

The first point is to change oil regularly, hopefully with synthetic oil since it's more refined. Sludge primarily precipitates from less-stable oils in overheating engines. Don't use additives, since they're not stable.

A "flushing oil" can help. Instead of a cleanser to flush the oil, they temporarily use extremely light oil as a solvent. It removes the last of the old oil, and a lot of gunk with it. Some might say that letting as much of the old oil out as possible is better, but they should witness filthy flushing oil coming out after that.

Many people use Seafoam brand light oil. I wouldn't use it as a daily additive, but adding it on the way to an oil change can make the oil less viscous to drain better. I've seen it work beautifully as a gasoline additive; it cleaned out a combustion chamber that was filled with carbon and some difficult slime from a bad seal that dissolved.

It's academic, mostly. Avoid fancy tricks when you're uncertain. Just change the oil regularly, use the right weight for the climate, use the best oil you can, and change the oil filter every time.
 
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