Does the stock head unit have a known Hz cuttoff for the sub?

N

NeWolf

Member
Hey All,

I installed my twin 12" alpines type R's from my old Toyota Sequoia when I bought my 2010 FX35 back in Sept. 2013. You guys helped me wire it up and it has been working great since.

The one problem I have is, with this same set up my type R's used to crank.

Now the bass seems to cutoff well before the 30Hz line, it will be hitting pretty good, and then when the bass starts getting real low... nothing

I know the head unit is doing something... is it a physical/analog restriction? or a software thing? and is there a work around?



I would appreciate any help

Regards,

John S.
 
It's hard to compare the install in one vehicle to another. First what amp are you running? How do you have the subs wired to the amp? Are you saying your subs aren't playing as low as they used to? What type of box are you using? I know in some newer vehicles the bass gets quieter when the volume gets louder. I installed my amp using a Audio Control LC2I which stops the bass from getting quieter when the volume gets louder
 
my subs aren't able to play as low as they can/did.
the only thing that has changed for my setup is the lack of an aftermarket head unit.
I have an amp wired at 4 ohms putting 1200 watts to the speakers (600 each) (this hasn't changed between my two vehicles).
But yeah when you get down to the low Hz range its almost non existent, like rap/ dubstep low. Is there a setting in the head unit I am missing or something?

Thanks,

-John

---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:48 PM ----------

I running two 12" alpine type r's, in individually ported 2.5 cubic foot cambers in one box.
 
Are you using a LOC or did you just cut the rca's and attach them like that? Not sure of how Infiniti set up their head units but like i mentioned a lot of cars are set up now to cut the bass when the volume goes up. I know my LOC fixes that issue but i don't think there's a setting in the head unit that could fix that . Perhaps someone with a 2nd gen can chime in
 
I kind of relate to this. I had 2 10" Alpines in a sealed enclosure in a previous car that gave more bass than I could handle. I just got an aftermarket amp installed in my 2010 FX along with a LOC (Lc2i) and the same subs and box. However, no matter what I do the bass just doesn't really feel like it's there. I have the amp pretty much turned all the way up, and the only way I can really get the subs to move at all is if I turn on the soundstage setting in the FX stereo. Otherwise, it's just pathetic sounding as if I have no subs at all.

Have any of you guys encountered this? I'm wondering if the installer put on the LOC unnecessarily or something, because I just don't see how the aftermarket amp and subs could put out such a pathetic amount of bass. When I use the fader/balance on the stereo, the bass cuts out when I fade to the front. If I move the balance to the left, there is far less bass than if I move it all the way to the right. I set my phone's output to mono to see if that makes a difference. It helps a bit, but it's pretty limited.

I feel like I have to strain to make out any truly low frequency while music is playing, and there is certainly no "punch" to it like you'd get with a similar setup with an aftermarket stereo. I'm very confused.
 
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same problem i have i just had bestbuy install a amp and subs and the bass don't hit when its supposed to and when it does hit its all distorted like wtf i really want a aftermarket stereo in my 2012 x35 but the dash setup don't really allow for it so does the factory stereo have any seperate sub line to tap into to make it sound like it should?
 
I took it back to the shop that did the install on it, and they claim it's setup correctly and sounds "normal". Maybe I just had too high of expectations for an aftermarket sub and amp with this stereo.

Here's what I currently have going:

Amp: Alphine MRV500 (500w RMS. monochannel)
Subs: 2 x 10" Alpine Type E (50-250w RMS each) in a sealed box
LOC: LC2i, with the input split to enter both left + right input channels

With this current set up, I have to have the bass turned all the way up at the head unit (Bose unit) with the driver sound stage setting turned on and the dB gain set to max on the amplifier to hear what I would consider a somewhat satisfactory level of bass. By "satisfactory", I mean fairly subdued and subtle so that it doesn't drown out the rest of the music and won't make the car rattle. I probably listen at 40% volume when driving at full speed. My last car was a 2006 G35 coupe with just the basic stereo (not the Bose), and it put out about as much bass as this setup does (it just didn't hit as low), and it had no sub or amp.

I couldn't get a straight answer as to whether the shop tapped the signal line leading to the Bose amp or if they tapped the speakers. At first they claimed they used the speakers, then they claimed they used the line heading to the Bose amp.

Am I missing something here? Or is this pretty much in line with what expectations I should have with adding an amp and sub to the stereo? I used these same subs in a previous car (aftermarket head unit) and they hit hard enough that I had to keep everything turned way down to not go deaf.
 
I'm somewhat in the same boat with my 1st gen.

The shop doing the install said that they couldn't tap the low level signal line going into the factory subs amplifier or they would get a grounding loop problem, so they tapped the high level signal coming out of that amplifier and used the high to low converter built into my JL amp to convert back to low level signal for my subwoofer.

I hate having unnecessary shit in the setup, and I feel like it doesn't hit as hard as my much cheaper previous setups. I paid a lot for a very high quality SQ sub and amp, and basically doesn't sound good to me.

My next step is to take my car to a different shop and see what they say.

From what I have read the head unit in our cars outputs a perfectly flat low level signal to the factory amp, that amp then applies the bose EQ and converts it to high level for the bose sub. So in theory tapping the line before the amp should result in a good signal for any aftermarket amp and sub. I don't know why the original shop was having so much trouble with this.
 
meme405 said:
I'm somewhat in the same boat with my 1st gen.

The shop doing the install said that they couldn't tap the low level signal line going into the factory subs amplifier or they would get a grounding loop problem, so they tapped the high level signal coming out of that amplifier and used the high to low converter built into my JL amp to convert back to low level signal for my subwoofer.

I hate having unnecessary shit in the setup, and I feel like it doesn't hit as hard as my much cheaper previous setups. I paid a lot for a very high quality SQ sub and amp, and basically doesn't sound good to me.

My next step is to take my car to a different shop and see what they say.

From what I have read the head unit in our cars outputs a perfectly flat low level signal to the factory amp, that amp then applies the bose EQ and converts it to high level for the bose sub. So in theory tapping the line before the amp should result in a good signal for any aftermarket amp and sub. I don't know why the original shop was having so much trouble with this.
Click to expand...
This describes exactly what is going on with my sub. I took the amp and sub out of my G37 when I sold it and had it installed in my QX70. The sub doesn't sound right and doesn't hit no where near as hard. Did you get this resolved?
Thanks
 
Svfusion said:
This describes exactly what is going on with my sub. I took the amp and sub out of my G37 when I sold it and had it installed in my QX70. The sub doesn't sound right and doesn't hit no where near as hard. Did you get this resolved?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Shop that did the install originally totally had the settings on the amp all fucked up.

Another shop sorted it in 10 minutes.

Stock head unit is still junk. Best upgrade you can make is an aftermarket head unit or a tuner
 
It should be almost the exact same head unit in the G and the FX so they should sound very similar after your sub install...
 
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