camber correction?

P

PGTFTW

Member
Location
VA
hi guys....just joined over here after noticing how 'slow' the other place was and how many of you were missing.

After a year on H&R's and Parada Spec-X, I'm considering going back to stock ride height unless I can get the camber adjusted and a proper alignment done. Any parts out yet?
 
you can adjust the camber by modifying the strut itself. cars that have factory camber adjustment pivot at the strut/knuckle connection by having one of the 2 mounting holes slotted, you can slot the top hole & then adjust the camber. if you want overkill once you get the correct position you could tack weld the washer which in effect makes it no longer a slotted hole even, but many cars have slotted holes, no issues unless it slips or moves, which ain't happening under normal use. if you run max perf. summer tires & run hard roadcourse style abuse the tack the washers.

the camber bolt kits use a smaller diameter shaft to allow this adjustment & I don't see it as much different really

you should only do one of the 2 holes, the top to correct negative camber.
 
Our front config is pretty solid for camber, even when I go all the way down the wheel doesn't tip much. Rear is another story. :laugh:
 
Most have been fine with the stock adjustments. There is some there, just not a whole lot. I don't see many people saying their tires are wearing abnormally from just springs.
 
I've had H&R on my car since the beginning of January. I've yet to do an alignment since I haven't really touch the FX recently. I think I've driven the car good 200 miles since the lowering.

I'll try to do an alignment by the end of this month and let you guys know how much I am off.
 
I know when I first did my h&r's the front didn't need to be touched, the rear had enough adjustment too.. I haven't aligned it since I then took them back out & cut the springs & rear mounts though.. try to get to it next week maybe... I thought I would have to modify my struts but I guess the front goes down nice & straight? now I want to lower the rear a bit more... might need to get my hands on these bolts too I guess...
 
Man, the bolts have been sitting in my FX this whole time. I'm out of town on business right now.

Your rear camber looks like it is in spec, but nearly out of spec. Toe is in the middle for the rear so the cross tread wear should be good.
 
think we're ok then? I had the wife take it over....only $70 and they'd do it over if we needed the parts.
 
You can get the camber and toe a bit closer, but the costs for that little bit wouldn't be worth it to me. Looks like your front left toe was out pretty far before, much better after.
 
Did the Eibach pro-kit today. Turns out the rear camber was out of spec after installation. I thought that would mean I'd need the camber alignment kit, but the guy at the shop said they would just slot the holes and bring the camber back into spec - which they did. And it's great. NO kit needed - but the shop needs to know what they are doing, of course. I asked about strength and any downsides to doing it this way and he said it's a common practice and they have never had any problems.

Alignment numbers-
Left Rear Camber Before: -2.0, After: -1.2
Left Rear Toe Before: -0.13, After 0.23

Right rear Camber Before: -1.8, After: -0.6
Right rear Toe Before: -0.08, After: 0.13

So I would say you'll need to deal with the Camber alignment if you have a 2003-2006 RWD and you go with the Eibach kit.
 
Infiniti%20kit.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
I recommend using OEM Infiniti hardware, after a bad experience with SPC parts failing. Same $80 cost.
(I am on BC Coilovers, lowered 2.75", with no aftermarket bracing. Was able to correct the rear camber within spec to -1 degrees with no slotting of adjustment holes.)
#55226-CG01A BOLT (2)
#55226-CG00A BOLT (2)
#55227-8J00A ECCENTRIC WASHER (4)
#55269-AG00E NUT (4)

---------- Post added at 09:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:57 PM ----------

Here are pics of the failed SPC kit. The clearance between the bolt and the D-shaped hole in the washer is too great. The OEM kit has a key-shaped feature to take the torque. When my shop tried to make adjustment, the cheap washer material failed and rounded out. The whole kit went back for a refund...junk IMO.
SPC%20washers%20close-up.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
SPC%20kit.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top