Bleeding FX50 brakes question

I recently had my calipers rebuilt and installed new pads and rotors. Does anyone know if you need to have the ignition in the "ON" (Not engine running) position when bleeding? I have bled the crap out of these things and still have a soft pedal. I am thinking ignition now because of the ABS but am not sure. if I pump the pedal three or four times it is very stiff but if not, the pedal is very soft. Brakes are still very strong but I dont like the soft pedal and am a bit miffed? Thanks in advance.
 
I dont know about everyone else but I leave the key in the on position when bleeding my brakes.
 
Yeah no problem I just figured the brakes get power when you turn the key so I do it that way. With the key off the brakes are very stiff.

---------- Post added at 04:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:38 PM ----------

Oh also make sure the calipers are put on the right way the bleeders in the rear face up on my first gen as well as in the front. If the are on wrong that can cause problems as well.
 
Yeah no problem I just figured the brakes get power when you turn the key so I do it that way. With the key off the brakes are very stiff.

---------- Post added at 04:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:38 PM ----------

Oh also make sure the calipers are put on the right way the bleeders in the rear face up on my first gen as well as in the front. If the are on wrong that can cause problems as well.

Oh yeah, install was correct, I did it myself ;) Bleeders up for sure! Thanks again :good:

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Aaahhh nice shiny yellow rotors. Im working on a BBK myself... that and a super charger.[emoji14]
 
Turning the car to the on position won't do anything. The master cylinder runs on vacuum so if the engine isn't on, it's not working. Make sure that you're opening both bleeders on each caliper. And FWIW, it will never be quite as stiff as before since you're now moving more fluid volume due to larger calipers. MC was designed to moved lower volume of fluid.
 
I started a thread asking about bleeding brakes also and someone commented and said something about not letting the reservoir go dry because then I would have to do something special with the ABS actuator to get the brakes to function normally again. I'm assuming you had to completely drain the fluid to do the work you did, which is why I'm mentioning it.
 
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Turning the car to the on position won't do anything. The master cylinder runs on vacuum so if the engine isn't on, it's not working. Make sure that you're opening both bleeders on each caliper. And FWIW, it will never be quite as stiff as before since you're now moving more fluid volume due to larger calipers. MC was designed to moved lower volume of fluid.

I can see what you are saying about the ignition on not doing anything, but these are stock calipers so why would there be more fluid?

---------- Post added at 03:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:14 PM ----------

I started a thread asking about bleeding brakes also and someone commented and said something about not letting the reservoir go dry because then I would have to do something special with the ABS actuator to get the brakes to function normally again. I'm assuming you had to completely drain the fluid to do the work you did, which is why I'm mentioning it.

I did completely flush the old fluid into the new fluid but the MC never went dry or pulled any air from there. ABS seems to be working properly as I have tested it a couple of times. Thanks for your 2 cents :good:
 
Got them bled and pedal is super stiff!!! This was my fourth time bleeding them and I am not positive that having the ignition on did anything but it is completely bled after the first round. On top of that. I am right in the cusp of getting through the break in part of the pad and am told that until through that brakes would not feel as strong as after break in. At any rate, I am a happy camper with a stiff pedal and very strong brakes! Thanks to all that helped me through this! :good:
 
Hi There,
I have been reading information that states the order of bleeding is important, and may NOT just be back right, back left, front right, front left. Does anyone have a diagram of the correct order for the FX50? (2010)
 
Your best bet would be to download the FSM and see what they say the order is. FSMs can be found here: https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals

Unless the system has been completely emptied and there is air in the ABS pump, I don't think the order matters too much. And I've never had a car "on" when bleeding the brakes, that shouldn't be necessary.
 
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