jonjensen2
Member
I know this section has been covered over on the FX forum, as well as a few other sights. Installing the Akebono or Infiniti Sport brake package on the front of my car was the easiest and hardest thing I have tried to do in one day. Most of the headache was caused by incorrect parts being ordered or "required" by some other DIY write-ups. I wanted to put together a set of instructions and parts list that including EVERY necessary step and part required for this procedure. I also wanted to perform this write up and eliminate the unneccessary parts that were called for in other write-ups, such as new brake lines. This deals with the installation on a RWD car and cannot be verified by me as a working write-up on the AWD platform. It requires the factory 19" sport wheels, which is what I have. Here it goes!
Tools Required:
1/2" drive ratchet
3/8" drive ratchet
12mm socket (3/8" drive)
21mm socket (1/2" drive)
1/2" drive Torque wrench
3/8" drive Torque wrench
10mm combination wrench
Brake Line Clamp
Needle Nose Pliers
Phillips #3 screwdriver
Air Hammer and punch
Wire Brush
Brake Fluid Bleeding Kit (or the aid of an assistant for bleeding)
Chemicals Required:
Brake Fluid
Copper Containing Brake Lubricant
Brake Cleaner (NOT CARB CLEANER!!!)
Paint and Primer (optional)
Parts Required:
41001-JL02A Right Front Caliper Assembly
41011-JL02A Left Front Caliper Assembly
D1060-JL00J Brake Pad Kit (Mine came with the cotter pins and grease)
D1080-JL00A Disc Brake Hardware Kit
40206-JL00A Brake Rotor (2 required)
41217-JL00A Brake Caliper Pin Kit
46201C-XXXXX Brake Line Bolt (explanation below) M12 x 1.0mm x 20mm
15mm wheel spacer kit (such as Ichiban)
*****Brake Line Bolt - The brake line bolt or union bolt is the part I did not get from the dealer. I simply cut off 2.6mm from my existing bolt and used a 1/4" drill bit to concave the center portion in order to acheive the correct geometry for the brake caliper. The one and ONLY reason I did this was because the dealer could not get these bolts for me for another 4-5 days and I did not want to wait another weekend to put this on my car. I highly recommend you get this bolt from the dealer!!! While I have not had any leaks or problems with my bolt conversion, it took me an hour to modify both bolts to the perfect specifications and I would have rather spent $10 for two new bolts.
How to perform the swap:
NOTE: THIS SWAP, WHILE SEEMINGLY EASY, SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY A TRAINED PROFESSIONAL. IF YOU UNDERTAKE THIS SWAP, ONLY USE THIS AS A GUIDELINE AND TAKE ALL NECESSARY SAFETY MEASURES TO PREVENT INJURY. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES OR INJURIES RESULTING FROM THESE REPAIRS OUTLINED IN THIS GUIDE. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
1. Loosen lug nuts on the front wheels slightly, but do not remove them.
2. Using a suitable jack and stands, lift the vehicle to provide adequete working space and ground clearance. Install jack stands in safe locations.
3. "bump" the vehicle to test the locations of the jack stands while the jack remains 1 inch below a solid lifting point to ensure jack stands are secure.
4. Remove lug nuts from the front wheels and set wheels aside.
5. On the right front brake assembly, place the brake line clamp between the brake caliper and the mounting bracket on the rubber part of the line, tighten to cut off brake fluid flow.
6. Place a plastic drain pan directly beneath the brake caliper.
7. Using the 12mm socket and ratchet, remove the brake line union bolt from the caliper, being careful not to drop the two brass washers. Set the bolt and washers aside in a clean area.
8. Using the 21mm socket and ratchet, remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the steering knuckle, being sure to support the brake caliper. Lower the caliper into your drain pan and allow the fluid to drain out in the pan.
9. Remove the brake rotor and discard.
10. Notice the semi-circle shape in the flange on the steering knuckle behind the wheel bearing on the side facing forward. This is where you want to line up the lug studs for removal.
11. Using the air hammer and punch, remove each lug stud by rotating the wheel bearing so that each stud fits through the semi-circle space upon removal.
12. Using a wire brush or other method, remove all surface rust from the wheel bearing flange. This is very important! A clean mating surface must be prepped for the new rotor to prevent uneven pressures and warping.
13. At this point, I used disc brake quiet spray to coat the wheel bearing surface, but you can also use a paint and primer or leave it bare - your choice.
14. Install the new lug studs provided in the wheel spacer kit, ensuring each stud sits flush on the back side of the wheel bearing upon installation.
15. Begin assembly the brake caliper, making sure to assemble the right side caliper.
16. Apply the copper containing grease compound to the backside of the brake pads and install the supplied shims, one for each brake pad. (Note: the brake pad set contains two brake pads with wear indicators, one pad for each side. Be sure to orient the pad with the wear indicator into the side of the caliper with the extra recessed spacing.)
17. Install the pads into the caliper by sliding them in, shim side facing the pistons.
18. Install the tension/anti-rattle clip on top of the pads and insert the pins. Using a phillips screwdriver, orient the pins and insert the clips with needle nose pliers.
19. Be sure to clean all shipping oils off of the brake rotors with brake clean. Install the brake rotor to the wheel bearing and carefully slide the caliper assembly onto the rotor.
20. Tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts to 60 ft-lbs.
21. Install the new brake line union bolt into the brake caliper, being sure to place one brass washer between the bolt and the line, and one washer between the line and the caliper. Tighten the brake line union bolt to 13 ft-lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!!
22. Remove line clamp.
23. Install the wheel spacer.
24. Repeat steps 5 through 23 for the left side.
25. Perform the brake bleeding procedure either with the brake bleeding kit or with the help of an assistant. Be sure to bleed the right side outter bleeder first, then right side inner bleeder, then left side outter bleeder, then left side inner bleeder.
26. Test the firmness of the pedal and ensure there are no leaks.
27. Replace wheels onto vehicle and torque lug nuts to the specified 80 ft-lbs of torque. WARNING: Wheel lock sets and capped lug nuts may or may not fit after installing the longer lug studs. Please verify before torquing down these items.
28. Road test the vehicle up to 2 miles without any heaving braking.
29. Retorque all the lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs to ensure proper seating of the new lug studs.
30. Burnish the brakes according to the Infiniti Service Manual Procedures outlined below:
Brake Burnishing Procedure
Burnish contact surfaces between pads according to following procedure after refinishing or replacing pads, or if a soft pedal occurs at very low mileage.
CAUTION:
• Be careful of vehicle speed because the brake does not operate easily until pads and disc rotor are securely fitted.
• Only perform this procedure under safe road and traffic conditions. Use extreme caution.
1. Drive vehicle on straight, flat road.
2. Depress brake pedal with the power to stop vehicle within 3 to 5 seconds until the vehicle stops.
3. Drive without depressing brake for a few minutes to cool the brake.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 until pad and disc rotor are securely fitted.
Once the brakes are burnished properly, you are all set to enjoy your new brake setup! Be sure to re-check the lug nuts after 50 miles of driving for proper torque.
Tools Required:
1/2" drive ratchet
3/8" drive ratchet
12mm socket (3/8" drive)
21mm socket (1/2" drive)
1/2" drive Torque wrench
3/8" drive Torque wrench
10mm combination wrench
Brake Line Clamp
Needle Nose Pliers
Phillips #3 screwdriver
Air Hammer and punch
Wire Brush
Brake Fluid Bleeding Kit (or the aid of an assistant for bleeding)
Chemicals Required:
Brake Fluid
Copper Containing Brake Lubricant
Brake Cleaner (NOT CARB CLEANER!!!)
Paint and Primer (optional)
Parts Required:
41001-JL02A Right Front Caliper Assembly
41011-JL02A Left Front Caliper Assembly
D1060-JL00J Brake Pad Kit (Mine came with the cotter pins and grease)
D1080-JL00A Disc Brake Hardware Kit
40206-JL00A Brake Rotor (2 required)
41217-JL00A Brake Caliper Pin Kit
46201C-XXXXX Brake Line Bolt (explanation below) M12 x 1.0mm x 20mm
15mm wheel spacer kit (such as Ichiban)
*****Brake Line Bolt - The brake line bolt or union bolt is the part I did not get from the dealer. I simply cut off 2.6mm from my existing bolt and used a 1/4" drill bit to concave the center portion in order to acheive the correct geometry for the brake caliper. The one and ONLY reason I did this was because the dealer could not get these bolts for me for another 4-5 days and I did not want to wait another weekend to put this on my car. I highly recommend you get this bolt from the dealer!!! While I have not had any leaks or problems with my bolt conversion, it took me an hour to modify both bolts to the perfect specifications and I would have rather spent $10 for two new bolts.
How to perform the swap:
NOTE: THIS SWAP, WHILE SEEMINGLY EASY, SHOULD ONLY BE DONE BY A TRAINED PROFESSIONAL. IF YOU UNDERTAKE THIS SWAP, ONLY USE THIS AS A GUIDELINE AND TAKE ALL NECESSARY SAFETY MEASURES TO PREVENT INJURY. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES OR INJURIES RESULTING FROM THESE REPAIRS OUTLINED IN THIS GUIDE. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
1. Loosen lug nuts on the front wheels slightly, but do not remove them.
2. Using a suitable jack and stands, lift the vehicle to provide adequete working space and ground clearance. Install jack stands in safe locations.
3. "bump" the vehicle to test the locations of the jack stands while the jack remains 1 inch below a solid lifting point to ensure jack stands are secure.
4. Remove lug nuts from the front wheels and set wheels aside.
5. On the right front brake assembly, place the brake line clamp between the brake caliper and the mounting bracket on the rubber part of the line, tighten to cut off brake fluid flow.
6. Place a plastic drain pan directly beneath the brake caliper.
7. Using the 12mm socket and ratchet, remove the brake line union bolt from the caliper, being careful not to drop the two brass washers. Set the bolt and washers aside in a clean area.
8. Using the 21mm socket and ratchet, remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the steering knuckle, being sure to support the brake caliper. Lower the caliper into your drain pan and allow the fluid to drain out in the pan.
9. Remove the brake rotor and discard.
10. Notice the semi-circle shape in the flange on the steering knuckle behind the wheel bearing on the side facing forward. This is where you want to line up the lug studs for removal.
11. Using the air hammer and punch, remove each lug stud by rotating the wheel bearing so that each stud fits through the semi-circle space upon removal.
12. Using a wire brush or other method, remove all surface rust from the wheel bearing flange. This is very important! A clean mating surface must be prepped for the new rotor to prevent uneven pressures and warping.
13. At this point, I used disc brake quiet spray to coat the wheel bearing surface, but you can also use a paint and primer or leave it bare - your choice.
14. Install the new lug studs provided in the wheel spacer kit, ensuring each stud sits flush on the back side of the wheel bearing upon installation.
15. Begin assembly the brake caliper, making sure to assemble the right side caliper.
16. Apply the copper containing grease compound to the backside of the brake pads and install the supplied shims, one for each brake pad. (Note: the brake pad set contains two brake pads with wear indicators, one pad for each side. Be sure to orient the pad with the wear indicator into the side of the caliper with the extra recessed spacing.)
17. Install the pads into the caliper by sliding them in, shim side facing the pistons.
18. Install the tension/anti-rattle clip on top of the pads and insert the pins. Using a phillips screwdriver, orient the pins and insert the clips with needle nose pliers.
19. Be sure to clean all shipping oils off of the brake rotors with brake clean. Install the brake rotor to the wheel bearing and carefully slide the caliper assembly onto the rotor.
20. Tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts to 60 ft-lbs.
21. Install the new brake line union bolt into the brake caliper, being sure to place one brass washer between the bolt and the line, and one washer between the line and the caliper. Tighten the brake line union bolt to 13 ft-lbs. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!!
22. Remove line clamp.
23. Install the wheel spacer.
24. Repeat steps 5 through 23 for the left side.
25. Perform the brake bleeding procedure either with the brake bleeding kit or with the help of an assistant. Be sure to bleed the right side outter bleeder first, then right side inner bleeder, then left side outter bleeder, then left side inner bleeder.
26. Test the firmness of the pedal and ensure there are no leaks.
27. Replace wheels onto vehicle and torque lug nuts to the specified 80 ft-lbs of torque. WARNING: Wheel lock sets and capped lug nuts may or may not fit after installing the longer lug studs. Please verify before torquing down these items.
28. Road test the vehicle up to 2 miles without any heaving braking.
29. Retorque all the lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs to ensure proper seating of the new lug studs.
30. Burnish the brakes according to the Infiniti Service Manual Procedures outlined below:
Brake Burnishing Procedure
Burnish contact surfaces between pads according to following procedure after refinishing or replacing pads, or if a soft pedal occurs at very low mileage.
CAUTION:
• Be careful of vehicle speed because the brake does not operate easily until pads and disc rotor are securely fitted.
• Only perform this procedure under safe road and traffic conditions. Use extreme caution.
1. Drive vehicle on straight, flat road.
2. Depress brake pedal with the power to stop vehicle within 3 to 5 seconds until the vehicle stops.
3. Drive without depressing brake for a few minutes to cool the brake.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 until pad and disc rotor are securely fitted.
Once the brakes are burnished properly, you are all set to enjoy your new brake setup! Be sure to re-check the lug nuts after 50 miles of driving for proper torque.