2003 FX45 C1206 transfer case solenoid non repairable?

K

klokwerk

Member
Location
Spokane, WA
Hi there! New to this forum.

I've had my 2003 FX45 for a couple years now and this is my first serious problem.
Just had the AWD light come on. Just that light. Since no codes presented themselves when I scanned the OBDII port, I took it to the dealership to see what they could tell me.

The result was a C1206. AWD Solenoid failure. 2.5 ohm relay open error.

The technitian told me that this is a non serviceable item on the 2003 transfer case.

My question to the group: is it true that this is non serviceable?
I've spent the last couple hours trying to find an exploded view diagram of the transfer case as well as a parts list for it. I've worked on Jeep transfer cases before and would like to try fixing this instead of replacing it if possible.

Thanks!
 
Thanks for the link! I tunneled down to the TF pdf. From what I found there, it looks like the AWD solenoid isn't on the transfer case but is in the AWD control unit. So I'm thinking the dealership had misdiagnosed my problem! They wanted to charge me $1,124 for a replacement transfer case!
I'll keep digging into this and see what a replacement AWD control unit runs. In the mean time, the manual refered to a parts guide to get the part number.
You wouldn't happen to have that handy would you?! LOL

Thanks again for the help!
 
Update: This is what I've put together based on the service manuals and the information from the dealership.
The 2003 FX45 transfer case appears to be serviceable. So I don't think the dealership was being truthful or the tech didn't do as thorough a job investigating the problem.

I think the problem with the AWD light being on (not blinking) should have been diagnosed as a problem with either the electric controlled coupling unit that's in the transfer case OR a problem with the AWD control unit that's in the passenger compartment under the dash. In the 2003 FX45 the code the tech brought back was C1206. The service manuals of the newer model FX's seems to have changed to include C1204 (AWD control unit) and C1205 (electronic controlled coupler).

I'll call the dealership to see if they can give me more information.
 
Indeed I was unable to find C1206, but tell me, did the technician get U1000 as well? are VDC-OFF and SLIP on too?
Back when I had the U1000, the C1205 and AWD, VDC-OFF and SLIP are all on, it was a problem of both poor AWD unit ground and poor harness connection, so I pulled the AWD unit and sanded off the grounding points to the chassis, and I pulled the harness connector and cleaned it up with a spray cleaner, put everything back and the problem was gone, the harness remained a bit loose though but I supported it with a small think wire.

View attachment 10471

So in my case it was a communication problem, the harness was loose, the solenoid was not on board , it gave the C1205 because the AWD could not communicate with it, and the U1000 because the ECU could not communicate with it as well.

After you clean the grounding points, If you could manipulate this harness connector trying to push it hard in place, meanwhile have someone switches off the engine and then starts it every time you change position, and see if the AWD light goes away.


Sent from my iPad
 
Ataher, thanks for the reply. The tech didn't report a U1000 or the C1205. I asked the service manager to get the tech on the phone so I could talk to him myself but I haven't gotten a call back yet.
I did try disconnecting and reconnecting the controller but it hadn't occurred to me to inspect the connection for corrosion or loose connection. I'll check it out as soon as I can.
In the meantime, I've found the part number for the controller. New these are pretty spendy. A used one on Ebay or at my local wrecker is much cheaper...but comes with no guarantee.

Also, it seems a common part across the G and FX platforms. Also for multiple years, not just the 2003. Makes sense.
 
Taking a bet on it being the Transfer Case Controller that's in the cabin, I bought a replacement from a wrecker called iCarPart out of Fresno, CA. Great customer service by the way!
Swapping out the controller didn't resolve the problem so the code, did describe the problem fully. Neither did the dealership.

So, back to iCarPart to see if they have a transfer case. More than likely it's just the Electric Controlled Coupling unit and not the whole transfer case. But it'll be easier to just swap out the whole thing than tearing one open to change out one part.
 
Update in case you're interested.
I installed the replacement Controller module in the cabin but that didn't fix the problem. AWD light still on. Crap.
So a I call iCarPart and explain the situation. Again, great customer service! They overnight me a shipper to return the part I have AND they give me a discount on a used transfercase with low miles.

It arrived this week. Installation to follow!
 
The removal of the transfer case was going smoothly until I got to the last couple bolts on top of the transfer case that attach it to the adaptor case on the transmission. What a pain in the ass!
I left it last night with the last bolt still in. I can't get a socket on it. Just can't quite reach it. The space I'm working with is too tight.

I've gone through the procedure outlined in Section TF of the shop manual for Removal & Installation but the transmission didn't drop down far enough for me to reach it.
Does anyone here have any advice on how to remove this last bolt? Has anyone done this before and figured it out?
I'm about to make my own tool to get up there OR drop the front cross member and motor to get to it!

Thanks!
 
I decided to go a different route.
I took out the driver seat, pulled up the carpet and cut a hole in side of the tunnel next to the transfer case.
Turns out this was a great idea!

Bolt out and it made it easier to detach and reattach the transfer case.

So, the job is done, the new-ish transfer case is in with new fluid and my original problem is fixed. Yeah!
It took me about another two hours to do the job and an additional couple hours to weld in new metal, grind it flush, respray undercoating and sound deadener etc.
I totally forgot to take pictures during the whole thing because I was so focused on getting it done.

I'm really happy with the result. While I was in there I inspected all my bushings, and lines, exhaust and everything else down there. All good. Drained and refilled both front and rear differentials.
 
You kidding right? No pictures? :disapointed:
It's not done. You were biting into a sandwich instead of cutting into the floorboard and imagining its all done! I kid... I kid... :rotfl:
Anyhow, how big of a hole you made. It would have bee a priceless picture of see the ground through the floorboard. Glad that you got it all fixed up. :good:


 
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That's a pretty innovative way to get a bolt out. But if it's quicker than dropping the motor, then why not. And like everyone else, any pics?
 
Yeah, sorry no pictures...I suck!

I was pressed for time so I was busting it out as quickly as I could.
Here's a breakdown:
1. Remove tunnel stay. Also called the "REAR SUSPENSION MEMBER". What it doesn't tell you is that you better have the transmission supported because it'll drop a few inches down when you pop out the last bolt!
2. Remove exhaust front tube. Which is just the point where the two pipes merge into one and gives you enough room to drop the transfer case. When you get that last frick'n bolt out!
3. Remove front and rear propeller shaft. You really only have to remove the rear prop shaft. Not doing this also negates the need to remove the undertray that covers the front differential too.
4. Disconnect electric controlled coupling harness connector from transfer assembly, separate harness from transfer assembly. Turns out power is being sent to the Transfer Case even when the ignition is off. Not doing this will throw a code. Also when I cut the hole, I had to remove the driver seat. Doing so without disconnecting the battery would also result in a code.
5. Remove air breather hose. This thing was kinda hard to see/reach.
6. Support transfer assembly from with a jack. I had the whole assembly supported as soon as I removed the tunnel stay.
7. Remove engine rear mounting. Dunno why they didn't just mention this when removing the tunnel stay. Eh.
8. Remove transfer mounting bolts and separate transfer from transmission. WAY WAY easier said than done! I had to invent no less than 3 tools to get to the bolts.
The front prop shaft is in the way of two of them and I needed to be real creative with the extensions I had for my ratchet.
Also the shifter linkage has to be removed to get to a couple bolts. Make sure you mark where it is adjusted to or else you'll have some sloppy shifting later!

That last bolt required either some special tool or very long very skinny arms as well as very small strong hands. I'm 6'3 225lbs. I guess I'm not built for this work!

So the hole. It wasn't in the floor but rather in the side of the tunnel just by your right foot if you're sitting in the drivers seat.
The hole itself was about 8 inches by 8 inches.
I cut it out with a cutting wheel on my handy angle grinder. Making sure to make the cuts as clean as possible and straight.

Once out I had easy access to the last bolt on top as well as two others! Should have done this sooner because it would have made this a one day job!
I had some spare sheet metal in my shop so once I finished swapping out the transfer case I just cut a piece to replace the one I cut out and welded it in.
After grinding down the welds I hit it with primer. On the bottom I sprayed rubberized undercoating and on the interior I also used the rubberized coating for sound deadening.
Then replaced the carpeting and seat.

Sorry again for not having any pictures. It was a hell of a job and I definitely would think twice about paying someone else to do it should it ever fail again!
All told, I would guess it took me 12 hours to do this whole thing.
Cost was $400 for the transfer case, $30 for the gear oil for front and read differentials and transfer case oil, $20 for front prop shaft oil seal on the transfer case.

Some things to note:
1. If I had a car lift this job would have been a little easier on my back and neck.
2. You definitly need a pump for getting the gear oil and transfer case oil into them. Trying to get a funnel in there is just not easy or possible.
3. You can do this job with some simple tools. A ratchet with 14mm socket on it was the most often used tool. Lots of extensions and jointed extensions.
4. I'm lucky enough to have a pretty well stocked garage. So I didn't have to go too far for everything I needed. But it's important to have some good tools. This job will chew up crappy tools in a heart beat. Lots of bolts that require a lot of torque to break.

If any of you have to do this job and have any questions, let me know. I'll be happy to offer any help I can!
 
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