Replace Bose Subwoofers with Aftermarket Brand?

T

threepointfive

Member
Considering swapping out my factory subs for some Alpines or Kickers. Anyone try this or know if I can upgrade to 10" speakers by replacing the two under the back seats? And also if I would need to run an amp to these? I dont want a box sitting in my trunk or a stealth box..
 
Only thing you can do is put a box or the stealth box or take out your spare like some members have done already and have a custom box made to fit in their to hold whatever subwoofer you may like. To add an amp your going to have to run your own power and remote turn on leads. You have to tap into the bose subwoofer harness to get your sub signal if your using the factory headunit. There is a DIY if you look around.
 
You have speakers under your seats?
You have three basic options for more bass.
1) Replace the sub amp. This is by far the best "boom for your buck", especially if you can score a sweet amp used. It requires running a power cable to the engine bay, but the rest of the wires can be intercepted at the box. You can leave the existing amp in the sub box alone, as you'll never find a decent one to fit in it's place. You can safely and easily triple the output of the oem sub unit this way without overdriving the woofers.
2) Replace the sub amp and the drivers in the existing box. Same procedure as #1 but involves replacing the 6" woofers in the existing box. Kicker makes a good driver that will fit, though I can't remember the name off hand. This option would yield a drastic increase in volume and fidelity from the oem enclosure, would be a bit more expensive than option #1, but still far less expensive and involved than option #3. This was my original plan for my sub circuit but upon completing step one I realized that I didn't want or need any more bass, so I stopped.

3) Say f#*k it and replace the whole subwoofer system. This is the best option for sound quality and quantity, but can be expensive and often results in (best case) the loss of your spare tire, or (worst case) I huge ugly subwoofer box in your trunk.

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option one sounds the easiest, as i dont want to replace the whole system. might just leave it unchanged now that its alot harder than i thought. id rather not spend money on something that will give me a minor boost in bass. thanks for the input.
 
I did option one. It's definitely more bass, but it's not going to compare to even a 8" woofer if you had it in your trunk. I bought a JL 275W amp off of Ebay for like $110 and had it installed for like $70. Good luck.
 
tchuck said:
You have speakers under your seats?
You have three basic options for more bass.
1) Replace the sub amp. This is by far the best "boom for your buck", especially if you can score a sweet amp used. It requires running a power cable to the engine bay, but the rest of the wires can be intercepted at the box. You can leave the existing amp in the sub box alone, as you'll never find a decent one to fit in it's place. You can safely and easily triple the output of the oem sub unit this way without overdriving the woofers.
2) Replace the sub amp and the drivers in the existing box. Same procedure as #1 but involves replacing the 6" woofers in the existing box. Kicker makes a good driver that will fit, though I can't remember the name off hand. This option would yield a drastic increase in volume and fidelity from the oem enclosure, would be a bit more expensive than option #1, but still far less expensive and involved than option #3. This was my original plan for my sub circuit but upon completing step one I realized that I didn't want or need any more bass, so I stopped.

3) Say f#*k it and replace the whole subwoofer system. This is the best option for sound quality and quantity, but can be expensive and often results in (best case) the loss of your spare tire, or (worst case) I huge ugly subwoofer box in your trunk.

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Click to expand...


Interested in more info on option 2 if anyone has
 
I went to a install place because I was about to pull the trigger and basically this is what my options were from my understanding:

2009 FX:
If I switch out the stock amp, then I lose the center OEM bose speaker that is above the nav. It will sound much better, cleaner, louder, but you lose that speaker (I didn't feel comfortable losing that). They said you lose it because it's from the head unit while the other speakers are from the amp in the back. I was also a little concerned with the potential of blowing a bose speaker then and then because the wires are tapped, they wouldn't cover under warranty if there was a problem (the dealer).

So the other option is to add a sub and amp sub connected to the amp in the back or whatever. Problem is, I don't want to lose the space, so only way is to fiberglass. I was quoted $500 labor and for the install and box, but I provide my own amp.

From what people have done and what I've read, seems like I should have additional options?

Here is what I want?
- I want ALL oem speakers working
- I want an install that would hopefully not void a warranty or increase risk of speakers getting blown or other issues to deal with.
- I want speakers to be louder and bass to thump more....I don't necessarily need where the bass is heard 1 block away (I did have two MTX400 subs in my last car), but the speakers and especially subs are lacking for me
- I don't want to give up cargo space; but if anything, very minimal.

What should I do then? Can anyone also suggest what amp or what to get....I want to then go back to those guys and say this is what I want done and you should be able to do this type thing.....
 
roughx021 said:
Interested in more info on option 2 if anyone has
Click to expand...

Any amp that is 2ohm stable will run the two stock Bose woofers in series (1st gen FX). The oem amp is rated at "100w", but I think that rating is peak power rather than the more common (and respectable) RMS rating that higher end manufacturers use. The JL amp I installed is 200w and works perfectly at about a 30% load. Care should be taken during setup that normal listening levels will not overdrive the stock woofers.

The Kicker woofers I mentioned are THESE. I measured the stock drivers and these in a stereo store. They will fit with extremely minor modifications. These would work with the same 2ohm stable amp, but would need to be wired in parallel. You could also use a more powerful amp with the revised driver rating. 300 would be ideal, I wouldn't do less than 100w.

jdTrader said:
I went to a install place because I was about to pull the trigger and basically this is what my options were from my understanding:

2009 FX:
If I switch out the stock amp, then I lose the center OEM bose speaker that is above the nav....
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how the second gen FX's are set up, but with the 1st gens the sub amp is inside the sub enclosure, and all the wires you need for the swap are connected to that amp (excepting the power cable, which isn't nearly big enough to power a decent amp). That said, intercepting the signal at the sub enclosure and running your own power cable have absolutely no effect on the rest of the system.

In your place, I'd get a second opinion.
 
I did a 12'' POLK. I ran the cord along the door panels so that way they were hidden. The stock sub is also still going cuz I tapped into the stock sub wires. I also put the adjusting knob for the sub where the ash tray is and drilled a hole so it’s also hidden. The sound is good with the boss speakers and the extra base.
The sub is in the back with the amp cuz I couldn’t find anywhere else to put it.
 
Is there a write up how to do option 1 or 2? I imagine that you run a decent sized power wire from the battery to the new amp... but then you need to find the amp turn on wire and the output wires to the Bose speaker... which you would trace to the actual speaker... and then run a decent sized ground... I have often wondered if one simply ran a better power cable, ground wire, and igher end speaker wires with the stoke set-up if the sound/power would be any better...

Has anyone tired?
 
Anyone know if the Kicker 08CVT654 (still too newb on this forum to post links) are an adequate 'drop in' replacement for the stock "subs"? Thanks!
 
^The mounting holes don't line up with the stock locations but they will fit. The the oem amp however (by far the weakest link) won't power them. You'll get a much better result by keeping the stock drivers and replacing the amp.

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tchuck said:
^The mounting holes don't line up with the stock locations but they will fit. The the oem amp however (by far the weakest link) won't power them. You'll get a much better result by keeping the stock drivers and replacing the amp.

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Click to expand...

tchuck -- these kicker ones are now discontinued:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Mi0Dxrrs2Rw/p_2068C65VT4/Kicker-CompVT-08CVT654.html
p2068C65VT4-f-1.jpeg


I am running, an Alpine Amp:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrx-v60/
498_1lg.jpg
CEA-2006 Power Rating: 50W x 4 + 200W x 1 (4 0hm@14.4V = 0.10%THD+N), 75W x 4 + 300W x 1 (2 0hm@14.4V) S/N 86dBA (Ref. 1W into 4Ohm):

I was planning on using the stock Bose subwoofers and just powering it with this instead of the stock subwoofer amp. Do you have any suggestions? This was my route to go since I don't want to lose my spare tire or put a box in my trunk.

Also, any thoughts on the center speaker. I really hate to lose it. Right now it's just disconnected. Should I throw an upgraded speaker in there? If so, any suggestions?

I'm running all Alpine aftermarket:
http://alpine-usa.com/product/category/speakers
 

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Chedman13 said:
tchuck -- these kicker ones are now discontinued:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Mi0Dxrrs2Rw/p_2068C65VT4/Kicker-CompVT-08CVT654.html
p2068C65VT4-f-1.jpeg


...
Click to expand...

They were when I was looking at them as well. You can still find them on EBAY.

Chedman13 said:
...

I am running, an Alpine Amp:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrx-v60/
498_1lg.jpg
CEA-2006 Power Rating: 50W x 4 + 200W x 1 (4 0hm@14.4V = 0.10%THD+N), 75W x 4 + 300W x 1 (2 0hm@14.4V) S/N 86dBA (Ref. 1W into 4Ohm):

I was planning on using the stock Bose subwoofers and just powering it with this instead of the stock subwoofer amp. Do you have any suggestions? This was my route to go since I don't want to lose my spare tire or put a box in my trunk.
...
Click to expand...

I did the same thing only with a mono amp that was a little less powerful. The stock woofers are 1ohm each, so you'll want to wire them in series for a 2ohm load that your amp can handle. That Alpine has a separate sub gain knob so you should be able to tune it without issue. Just avoid distortion and you'll be fine "overpowering" them. Another bonus of this route is that if you do decide to upgrade the woofers later, or even replace the sub enclosure altogether you won't need to replace the amp (again).

Chedman13 said:
...

Also, any thoughts on the center speaker. I really hate to lose it. Right now it's just disconnected. Should I throw an upgraded speaker in there? If so, any suggestions?

I'm running all Alpine aftermarket:
http://alpine-usa.com/product/category/speakers
Click to expand...

You have a funny issue with your proposed setup, that lies in the fact that the oem Bose amp has an internal x-over, so you don't really have a choice to keep the center channel. What I mean is the head unit has four outputs; FL, FR, RL, and RR that are sent to the Bose amp, which splits those four signals into ten (FL-high, FL-low, FR-high, FR-low, RL-high, RL-low, RR-high, RR-low, Center, and Sub) before amplifying them for the speakers. This means that removing the oem amp will eliminate the center channel, dash tweeters, rear tweeters, and subwoofer channels. If you had an amp that was capable of the same tasks then you could swap them no problem, but you don't... I can't remember whether your front door components came with a crossover, but if they did then you can simply connect that to each of the front and rear channels to regain the eight door, tweeter, and dash locations. If you don't have the crossovers then you'll need to get four 2 ways to use your tweeters. That leaves the center channel and sub signal. Your amp has a built in crossover for the sub, so you're good there. Last and least you have the center channel; All dressed up and nowhere to go. To regain that signal you'd need an amp that provides it via internal x-overs. Considering you already have your amp, ditch the center. Your front speakers will cover the sonic ground it used to hold.
That little pop-up touch screen idea is pretty cool...
 

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First off, WTF. How do you know so much? That is awesome, I am going to bother you with more questions now:rofl:

tchuck said:
They were when I was looking at them as well. You can still find them on EBAY.
I did the same thing only with a mono amp that was a little less powerful. The stock woofers are 1ohm each, so you'll want to wire them in series for a 2ohm load that your amp can handle. That Alpine has a separate sub gain knob so you should be able to tune it without issue. Just avoid distortion and you'll be fine "overpowering" them. Another bonus of this route is that if you do decide to upgrade the woofers later, or even replace the sub enclosure altogether you won't need to replace the amp (again).
Click to expand...

I was too lazy to Google, thanks, I should have figured there were still available somewhere.

Will the Kicker woofers hit harder than the Bose woofers? I'm assuming the answer is yes, but I have no idea on the specs of the Bose woofers. If that's the case, I'm ordering the Kicker ones.

tchuck said:
You have a funny issue with your proposed setup, that lies in the fact that the oem Bose amp has an internal x-over, so you don't really have a choice to keep the center channel. What I mean is the head unit has four outputs; FL, FR, RL, and RR that are sent to the Bose amp, which splits those four signals into ten (FL-high, FL-low, FR-high, FR-low, RL-high, RL-low, RR-high, RR-low, Center, and Sub) before amplifying them for the speakers. This means that removing the oem amp will eliminate the center channel, dash tweeters, rear tweeters, and subwoofer channels. If you had an amp that was capable of the same tasks then you could swap them no problem, but you don't... I can't remember whether your front door components came with a crossover, but if they did then you can simply connect that to each of the front and rear channels to regain the eight door, tweeter, and dash locations. If you don't have the crossovers then you'll need to get four 2 ways to use your tweeters. That leaves the center channel and sub signal. Your amp has a built in crossover for the sub, so you're good there. Last and least you have the center channel; All dressed up and nowhere to go. To regain that signal you'd need an amp that provides it via internal x-overs. Considering you already have your amp, ditch the center. Your front speakers will cover the sonic ground it used to hold.
That little pop-up touch screen idea is pretty cool...
Click to expand...

I have this thing running:
int-2bx-top.jpg

Digital Equalizer with SUB woofer output

• 5 Channel Hi-Level Input
• 4v-30v Input Sensitivity
• Variable 30-80Hz Bass EQ
• Variable 0-12dB Bass Boost
• Variable Boost Q
• Subwoofer Input Selector
• Backed by one year manufacturer waranty
• 15-50Hz Subsonic Filter
• Remote subwoofer gain control
• Front, rear and Sub Low Level Outputs
• Delayed Remote Turn-on Output
• On-Board Clip Indicator
• Signal Sense Auto Turn-On
http://www.soundstream.com/AudioProducts/signal_processors/int-xbp.htm

And I think my cousin (doing the install) ordered this too?
http://www.kicker.com/zxsum8
zxsum8-prodpg.jpg

And your are right, my door speakers come with cross overs:
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spx-17ref/
349_1lg.jpg

So can I still buy an aftermarket center speaker and throw on in there with all this crap, even though I lost the Bose Amp?
 

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Holly crap! Tim, you opened up my eyes and ears on audio components setup! I'm the biggest novice when comes to car audio. I'll keep my eyes and ears out on this post. Can't wait to hear Ed's setup.
 
la_fx35 said:
Holly crap! Tim, you opened up my eyes and ears on audio components setup! I'm the biggest novice when comes to car audio. I'll keep my eyes and ears out on this post. Can't wait to hear Ed's setup.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm the bad influence on you now=) I'm hoping this audio systems blows us both away, if so, you'll know exactly what to buy and how to wire it.

My cousin keeps repeating he can add tweeters to the center, but 100% not necessary because of the door and front speakers and a waste of money.

I'm with Jonas though -- I don't like losing anything=)

---------- Post added at 10:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:47 AM ----------

Tim -- I just found these:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PH6sVu...r-10CVT654.html?tp=111&tab=features_and_specs

p2060CVT654-f.jpeg


The new model is a little smaller:
Top Mount Depth (inches) 2 7/8 vs 2 13/16 (2.875 vs 2.8125)
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 5 9/16 vs 5 1/2 (5.5625 vs 5.5)

So you think I should get the newer one? The older ones are almost 50% off vs the newer ones.

OLD MODEL
Size 6 1/2 -inch
Impedance 4 ohms
Cone Material Injection-molded poly
Surround Material Santoprene rubber
Ideal Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet) N/A
Ideal Ported Box Volume (cubic feet) N/A
Port diameter (inches) N/A
Port length (inches) N/A
Free-Air Yes
Dual Voice Coil No
Sensitivity 84.6 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response 30 - 350 Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 50-150
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 300
Top Mount Depth (inches) 2 7/8
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) N/A
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 5 9/16
Vas (liters) 9.28
Fs (Hz) 53.9
Qts 0.667
Xmax (millimeters) 0
Parts Warranty 1 Year
Labor Warranty 1 Year

NEW MODEL
Size 6 1/2 -inch
Impedance 4 ohms
Cone Material Injection-molded poly
Surround Material Santonprene rubber
Ideal Sealed Box Volume (cubic feet) 0.2
Ideal Ported Box Volume (cubic feet) N/A
Port diameter (inches) N/A
Port length (inches) N/A
Free-Air Yes
Dual Voice Coil No
Sensitivity 84.6 dB at 1 watt
Frequency Response 25 - 350 Hz
RMS Power Range (Watts) 50-150
Peak Power Handling (Watts) 300
Top Mount Depth (inches) 2 13/16
Bottom Mount Depth (inches) N/A
Cutout Diameter or Length (inches) 5 1/2
Vas (liters) 9.28
Fs (Hz) 53.9
Qts 0.667
Xmax (millimeters) 0
Parts Warranty 1 Year
Labor Warranty 1 Year
 
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