Painting Strut Tower Bar?
- Thread starter Mongolian
- Start date
Hey Mon,
I had my stillen stb painted by turbocad months ago with rattle can durpi semi gloss (engine enamel for high heat). I went as far as having the bolts and nuts touched up as well. If you like, I'll try to get some quality pictures when weather permits.
Overall, it's a better look IMO. Good luck on your prj.
I had my stillen stb painted by turbocad months ago with rattle can durpi semi gloss (engine enamel for high heat). I went as far as having the bolts and nuts touched up as well. If you like, I'll try to get some quality pictures when weather permits.
Overall, it's a better look IMO. Good luck on your prj.
greddysetgo
Member
This is something you can easily do at home with a spray can. High-temp enamel isn't a must, but it will be a little more durable. Prep is key. I would dry sand all the areas you want to paint so the paint will stick better. Overall, I think this is something you can do in an hour or two and have it turn out fantastic!
What grit sand paper do you recommend I use? I guess I will use the high-temp enamel paint. I'm sure they have one that's semi-glossy
haha, soon has very delicate & smooth hands, he gets bruised by just sanding something like this 
the scratches of the sandpaper should be as course as you can get while still having a smooth paint finish, 220 is a bit aggressive, but does the job well with aluminum, better bite & less chance of chipping & stuff, a few coats should smooth it out if you use a heavier paint like an engine enamel, if you use a finer paint then 220 may be too aggressive & still show scratches though, in that case a 320 would be better, but a bit less "bite"...
the scratches of the sandpaper should be as course as you can get while still having a smooth paint finish, 220 is a bit aggressive, but does the job well with aluminum, better bite & less chance of chipping & stuff, a few coats should smooth it out if you use a heavier paint like an engine enamel, if you use a finer paint then 220 may be too aggressive & still show scratches though, in that case a 320 would be better, but a bit less "bite"...
haha, soon has very delicate & smooth hands, he gets bruised by just sanding something like this
to be politically correct: I have modern day office hands. Great for mingling with office girls and beers
. Bad for automotive / mechanical workings.greddysetgo
Member
I usually start with a low grit, maybe 150 or so dry, then wet and work my way to 300 dry. If you're going to use hi-temp engine enamel, that stuff is pretty thick. I'm sure you can start and finish with 200 grit dry no problem. Just don't press too hard, you don't need to put your weight in it, just firm and consistent.
I'm still amazed the your hands are so smooth that the epoxies & compounds just rinse right off your hands easily, where mine I have to scrub with heavy abrasives just to get clean... guess my hands are a bit leather like though compared to yours
damn soon. i think john just politely called you a byitch.
haha. I had a feeling someone might go that route, but hey, if john is doing all the mods projects with his mechanical hands then he call me whatever.
{hope this thread goes back to the original topic}
um......speaking of painting the STB black, i just noticed that i need to paint my brackets. they're all rusted and ugly - and that way they'll match my engine cover (which came out super nice).
tbh, i think i may polish my STB.
greddysetgo
Member
I think polishing it will make it look really nice! Anyone have pics of that?