HID Problem

prelude48

Member
I just got my 6000k bulbs after a mix up from 8000k, i installed the bulbs and they only turn on for a sec then the automatically turn off and wont turn on untill you shut them off manually then wait a min and then turn them on again...and then they turn off after a second...wtf? i had 8000k in for the night and they worked fine and the stock bulbs work fine...they are D2C bulbs...
 
agree with doc

the D2C's are cheaper branded lights...if you can, try and stay with the D2S.
 
I paid 80 dollars canadian, and i cant remember what brand but the guy is going to switch them out tomorrow... and this time I'm doing it right in front of him so we an both see, and if not get my money back.. thanks for the help guys!!
 
I have some MTEC's right now and the passenger side has been flicking off sometimes when I hit bumps. It's weird cause it doesn't happen all the time but when it does I have to turn the lights off then on again and it comes back on.
 
arn't the bulbs suppossed to be d2s?

The Chinese found a way to get a bulb to work with both the D2S and D2R in one base...the D2C

D2C based bulbs usually have horrible quality bases and bulbs...so plugging them in, you tend to have problems with the connection...showing up in exactly the way the OP stated..lights going on and off..not going on at all. It's the connection of the D2C bulbs causing the issue.

Please stay with the D2S....you wont have these problems, and you didn't save any money.

from HIDPlanet.com

"D2C are cheaper Asian made bulbs keyed at the base to fit either D2S or D2R. They would be a disaster to replace D2R, blinding everyone in sight. They are by definition cheap junk. You should never buy D2C only D2S or D2R as the originals were."

"Yeah..the D2c's a designation that the aftermarket cheap bulb manufacturers have come up with. They are too cheap to make seperate D2S and D2R bulbs so they made one that will fit both.

Dont expect much performance or lifespan from them if you get them"

also to trouble shoot....reinstall your stock Phillips 4300K bulbs and see if your getting the same problems. If you're not...it's obviously the bulbs and their connection.
 
I have some MTEC's right now and the passenger side has been flicking off sometimes when I hit bumps. It's weird cause it doesn't happen all the time but when it does I have to turn the lights off then on again and it comes back on.

Sounds like a symptom I had with my MTEC driver side. It'll go soon. I do have a spare if you 8000k MTEC bulb that is good. I can sell it to you for dirt cheap if you'd like. I didn't even have them for 6 months and I just went back to stock.

Edit: NM you have 6000k
 
So do these d2c bulbs have the thin stip of coating like the d2r (which are meant for reflector based HID setups), or are they just like the d2s bulbs we are supposed to use (meant for projectors)?
That strip of coating is there to help with cutoff in headlights using reflectors instead of projectors. Either way it sounds like a bulb to stay away from. Thanks for the heads up!
 
Had the same problem as you with the bulbs. You turn on the lights, it flickers and turns off again. If the seller offered warranty, just send in the defective bulb and they replace you with a new one. They'll ask for the transaction ID and then they'll check the dates to make sure it falls within the warranty limits. If qualified, you mail in your bulb and that's it! They'll mail you back the replacement, no problems.
 
D2C bulbs DO NOT have the reflective strip like the D2R. That's why people using them in reflective housing's blind everyone.

A lot of people do not know how to use HID bulbs, and which bulbs to get....which is why they go out blinding people, sometimes just unknowingly.

D2R is only to be used with relective housings..so all you people with your Chevy's, and Civics, this bulbs is for you...Most people do not like it as much, because it actually puts down less lumens due to the reflective shield. The reflective shield is used as a cut-off which helps put the light on the road in reflective housings, and not scattered everywhere(eyes of oncoming drivers/ rearview mirrors). Most people where I live dont want that, they think its cool to blind the crap out of people and want more lumens, They go with the D2C or D2S bulbs, which means brighter light, but its scattered everywhere and not on the road like its supposed to be.

D2S AND D2C is only to be used in a projector housing. Or someone that has retroed a projector into their reflective housings.


Cheap place to get D2S bulbs that actually last: $35 for the pair any color 1 year warranty

http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/HID_Bulb_Replacements_Pair-131-94.html

also, get their hid kits for your fogs...LIFETIME WARRANTY! I've had 3 of these kits now for 3 years (mazda3, mazda6, FX fogs, seperate 6K bulbs in fx) I've..only one ballast failure...had a new one within a week...no problems with any of the bulbs yet....and if I do, I can get a new one free for life.
 
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Good info, best answer marked. D2C FTL

The Chinese found a way to get a bulb to work with both the D2S and D2R in one base...the D2C

D2C based bulbs usually have horrible quality bases and bulbs...so plugging them in, you tend to have problems with the connection...showing up in exactly the way the OP stated..lights going on and off..not going on at all. It's the connection of the D2C bulbs causing the issue.

Please stay with the D2S....you wont have these problems, and you didn't save any money.

from HIDPlanet.com

"D2C are cheaper Asian made bulbs keyed at the base to fit either D2S or D2R. They would be a disaster to replace D2R, blinding everyone in sight. They are by definition cheap junk. You should never buy D2C only D2S or D2R as the originals were."

"Yeah..the D2c's a designation that the aftermarket cheap bulb manufacturers have come up with. They are too cheap to make seperate D2S and D2R bulbs so they made one that will fit both.

Dont expect much performance or lifespan from them if you get them"

also to trouble shoot....reinstall your stock Phillips 4300K bulbs and see if your getting the same problems. If you're not...it's obviously the bulbs and their connection.
 
Sounds like a symptom I had with my MTEC driver side. It'll go soon. I do have a spare if you 8000k MTEC bulb that is good. I can sell it to you for dirt cheap if you'd like. I didn't even have them for 6 months and I just went back to stock.

Edit: NM you have 6000k

Crap! Thanks for the offer though. :tup:
 
wow learned something. I also brought chinese made HID bulbs. only thing on the box is D2S and 6000k but i wonder if its in fact a D2C. My right bulb goes in and out sometimes. Its reliable enough for me to not care for now though.
 
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