What's New Home Forum Top
Supporter Rides
Register
Welcome to InfinitiScene.com - Home for Infiniti crossover owners and enthusiasts!
Welcome to InfinitiScene.com!

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, and are only allowed limited access to the forum. Why not register on our forums and gain the extra benefits that our regular members enjoy?
Here are a few of the many reasons why you should join our site...

  • Registraion is free.
  • You will be able to post, message, and interact with other members.
  • Our forum is full of friendly, knowledgeable members and staff.
  • Plenty of money saving opportunities from write-ups to maintenance help.
  • Our members experience fewer Ads.
  • You can earn a free virtual garage/gallery.
  • Plus much more!

Registration is fast, free, and easy, so stop being just a guest and become one of our newly registered members today!
Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 63
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    23
    Ride
    2006 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    0
    Thanks Received: 
    2

    DIY HOW TO: Replace AWD Front Hub Bearing Assembly

    Just replaced the front hub bearing assembly on my 2006 FX35 AWD. Here's the write up for the technically inclined.

    Basic Tools
    Car Jack
    Jack Stand
    1/4 inch ratchet driver
    1/2 inch ratchet driver
    1/2 inch drive extension
    14mm socket
    17mm socket and combo wrench
    19mm socket and combo wrench
    22mm socket and combo wrench
    Plier
    C-Clamp - to compress the brake pistons back in to reinsall the brake pads.
    Hammer
    PB Blaster or similar rust busters
    Breaker bar
    Rope or anything to tie something

    Contingency (Plan B) Tools
    5mm Drill bit
    6mm Plug tap
    Vise grip
    Electric Drill

    Here's a walk around of the front hub bearing assembly to get familiar with it (from now on will be referred to as FHBA):
    Notice the orientation of what's up and what's down. You'll know why later on.


    Side view of the FHBA


    Outward view of the FHBA


    Close up of the FHBA


    This is a must to have for this project. PB Blaster has been the best that I have ever used in breaking loose any rusted parts.


    Prop open the wheel center cap and start spraying the PB Blaster right away. The more time it has to soak in the better.



    Straighten and remove the locking pin with a plier.


    At this point do not jack up the truck yet. You gonna need the friction on the tire to loosen the hub nut.



    Find yourself a nice breaker bar. The longer the easier it will be on your back.



    This will bound to happen so make sure you have a back-up. Rachet with moving parts in the head is not ideal for this big job
    so I recommend using a fixed-head rachet.



    Once initially loose, the hub lug should screw out pretty easily. Don't forget the washer with it.



    Now jack up the truck just enough to not put too much weight on the wheel and loosen the lug nuts.



    and once all lugs are loosen, the jack can be fully lifted to give enough room for a jack stand. Once the stand is in place
    lower the jack a little bit to firmly rest the weight of the truck on both the stand and the jack itself.



    Now the brake and rotor are ready to come off.



    As you can see, the speed sensor is pretty rusted out.



    so give it lots of PB Blaster treatment



    while you are at it, spray some on the brake bracket bolts as well.



    Using a half inch driver and a hammer, tap the end of the driver to loosen the bolts.





    Once the brake bracket bolts are loose, don't remove them all the way, loosen the brake caliper bolts first.
    You'll need these off as well to re-install the pads back on later.



    Once removed, tie the brake assembly onto the spring to keep it out of the way.



    Here's a back shot of the rear of the hub.



    If you have this, use it. A sliding hammer.



    Spray some PB Blaster onto the contact area of the brake rotor and FHBA and let it stand for several minutes.



    After several slides of the hammer the rotor comes off. Now you are ready to work on the FHBA.


    Spray liberal amount of PB Blaster on the bolts of the FHBA and let it sit for a good 5 to 10 min.



    Start loosening the FHBA bolts. Using a hammer to tap the end of the rachet will
    help more than trying to put your own muscle force on it. They are pretty stiff, but not as bad as the hub lug nut.



    Once all the bolts comes off, use the sliding hammer to work on the FHBA.
    Alternate from one side to the other and working around the edges.



    After a good 20 minute on the sliding hammer I realized it was a total waste of time.
    The only way to dislodge this thing is from the back side. Remove the entire hub from the shock.



    Took only three good solid hits with a cast iron hammer to get the thing loose.
    I have came to a conclusion that sliding hammer is only good for dents on body panels.



    The new FHBA goes in.



    Remember what I said about the up and down side? Here's why.



    If you installed it upside down, the speed sensor won't go in all the way.
    And you'll be bitchin' at yourself for being so stupid like I did.



    Next up...damn broken speed sensor bolt!!! I can't believe Infiniti used such a poor grade metal for this bolt!!!
    Probably a grade 5 or lower. It a 10mm head but only a 6mm shaft. Formula for a catastrophy when rust comes to play.



    The speed sensor comes out, but the broken nuts becomes a pain in the you know what.





    Vise grip might work...not!!!! The quality of the metal use on this thing is so poor
    the edge of the leftover piece just crumbled when I twisted the vise grip. Also tried a bolt extractor. Useless on rusted metal.



    After an hour break and thinking it over again, I went shopping and found this!!! It's like wow! The greatest invention ever!!!
    The speed sensor nut is exactly this size.



    Use the drill to drill out the stuck bolt as much as you can but be careful not to damage the side of the hole.
    Then use a vise grip to firmly hold the tap.



    Start screwing the tap into the drilled hole. Be careful, when you start to feel resistence, unscrew it back out and remove
    any metal filing on the tap head. Repeat until you get enough depth for a new screw. This will re-create the thread
    that should fit any M6-5mm bolt.


    Instead of using the same grade (OEM bolt) I found this Allen bolt that's at least a grade 8.
    Works like a charm. No worries for future removal.


    The speed sensor is now in place!!!


    Start re-assemble things back on and don't forget that washer with the hub lug.


    Before using the C-Clamp to compress the brake pistons, make sure you loosen the brake fluid reservoir
    cap and slowly compress the pistons. Opening the reservoir cap will ease the pressure a bit and
    minimize the risk of damaging the ABS controller. Bleeding the brake shouldn't be necessary
    since you haven't introduce any air to the line. Make sure close the brake reservoir cap before pumping the brake.


    Lower the truck and tighten the wheel lugs and the hub lug. Don't forget the locking pin and you're good for another 80 - 90K miles.
    Not looking forward to it.




    Register
    Last edited by 06FX35; 10-19-2010 at 07:22 PM.

  2.    The Following User Says Thank You to 06FX35 For This Useful Post:


  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Santa Clarita, CA
    RiSC
    SCiS
    Posts
    10,331
    Ride
    2005 FX45
    Thanks Given
    6
    Thanks Received: 
    18
    Great write up! Thanks for the contribution.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    10
    Ride
    2003 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    2
    Thanks Received: 
    0

    Wheels / Suspension

    Great pictures and detail.

    Just would like to add that make anti-seize your best friend during installation. I coated the entire bearing to hub mating surfaces, and all bolts to ensure ease of disassembly for next time.

    :tup:

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    NYC
    RiSC
    TSFX
    Posts
    5,595
    Ride
    Other
    Thanks Given
    96
    Thanks Received: 
    98
    GREAT write up. insanely detailed and loved the part about the snapped bolt. Same thing a friend and i ran into installing springs, except a nut got rounded out in a matter of seconds!

    thanks for contributing!

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Big Bear City,Ca.
    Posts
    3,866
    Name
    John Green
    Ride
    2004 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    48
    Thanks Received: 
    83
    Excelent write up love the detail on dealing with all the issues well done!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Chicago
    RiSC
    MWFX
    Posts
    10,974
    Name
    Andy
    Ride
    2003 FX45
    Thanks Given
    231
    Thanks Received: 
    750
    Great write up. Love the details in resolve obstacles along the way. Broken bolt is inevitable with cars driven in colder/snowy weather. Thanks for sharing.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Kings County,NY
    Posts
    36
    Ride
    2003 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    4
    Thanks Received: 
    0
    GREAT WRITE-UP and PICTURES! Thanks!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    4
    Ride
    2005 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    0
    Thanks Received: 
    0
    Do you remember front axle nut torque spec? Is it the same as rear - 177 ft/lb?
    Too much torque can cause bearing to overheat which leads to premaure failure.
    Thnx!

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Dallas, Tx
    RiSC
    TXFX
    Posts
    512
    Ride
    2003 FX45
    Thanks Given
    22
    Thanks Received: 
    6
    thanks for the write up!!

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Poland, Warsaw
    Posts
    537
    Ride
    2006 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    3
    Thanks Received: 
    10
    gr8 writeup - I know will use it in the future :)
    Last edited by sirtrojan; 10-27-2010 at 12:04 PM.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Florida, USA
    Posts
    31
    Ride
    2006 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    0
    Thanks Received: 
    0
    Excellent write up !!!...thank you for sharing !!!

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    4
    Ride
    2005 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    0
    Thanks Received: 
    0
    Hey guys,
    Can anyone confirm front axle end-bolt torque spec?
    Great write-up means nothing if you don’t know proper torque specs for axle bolts.
    FYI:
    Last year I experienced humming noise in front left side hub, changed both front left/right hubs-wheel bearings. 15K miles later same humming noise returned.
    Found out my left side hub was over torqued causing my bearing to overheat and break apart.
    Ordered new hub and ready for DIY.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    10
    Ride
    2003 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    2
    Thanks Received: 
    0
    Proper front wheel axle nut torque is 203 ft-lb.

    :wink (2):

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    4
    Ride
    2005 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    0
    Thanks Received: 
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by djlfx View Post
    Proper front wheel axle nut torque is 203 ft-lb.

    :wink (2):
    Thanks so much !!

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    atlantic city
    Posts
    2
    Ride
    2004 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    0
    Thanks Received: 
    0
    Thank u!!!!!

  17. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    RiSC
    MWFX
    Posts
    6,115
    Ride
    2003 FX45
    Thanks Given
    96
    Thanks Received: 
    124
    thanks for sharing, very nice write up.

  18. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Boston, MA
    RiSC
    NEFX
    Posts
    3,919
    Ride
    2008 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    61
    Thanks Received: 
    57
    Awesome write up very detailed

  19. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Redondo Beach, CA
    RiSC
    SCiS
    Posts
    2,921
    Ride
    2003 FX35 RWD
    Thanks Given
    17
    Thanks Received: 
    13
    Nice documentary! I like how you showed us the failures as well as the successes - we can use your solutions for similar problems in the future.

    A couple of things I thought I could add -

    The sliding hammer can be your best friend if used properly. The way you were using it to try to remove the hub was not ideal. The advantage to the sliding hammer is the ability to transfer force while already in contact with the surface. By using that small bracket on the end, the transfer force was greatly reduced. The proper use would have been through the center of the hub, which is not possible with the axle in the way. By alternating sides, you would actually be binding the metal surfaces with each hammer impact. Just not the ideal tool for the job in this situation. For the RWD guys changing front hubs - best tool possible.

    You are sooo careful with so many things, I was really surprised you don't use a torque wrench for every single bolt. Using the factory torque specs and cleaning the mating surfaces beforehand are very worthwhile tasks to add. After driving around for about a week, I take the torque wrench and go back over every bolt I installed. You would be surprised how many of them move just a bit before hitting the proper torque level for the second time.

  20. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nati
    Posts
    80
    Ride
    2005 FX35 AWD
    Thanks Given
    0
    Thanks Received: 
    0
    so how can you tell if you need to replace the front hubs?

  21. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Illinois
    RiSC
    MWFX
    Posts
    6,115
    Ride
    2003 FX45
    Thanks Given
    96
    Thanks Received: 
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by TeckniX View Post
    so how can you tell if you need to replace the front hubs?
    It will sound like you are a plane about to take off -- it is a whirling noise that doesn't go away.

    Basically, it will be so annoying and loud, you will know for sure. At first I thought it was tire noise, but it was the hub bearing.


 
Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. [FX35 03-08] Anyone Replace FX35 Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub?
    By Artifex in forum FX (03-08) - Wheels & Suspension
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 10-19-2011, 07:56 AM
  2. Nissan OEM vs Timken Hub Front AWD Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly
    By Chedman13 in forum FX (03-08) - Wheels & Suspension
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 07-26-2011, 01:51 PM
  3. [FX35 03-08] Front hub and bearing assembly
    By ZFoxHead in forum FX (03-08) - Wheels & Suspension
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-26-2011, 02:50 PM
  4. [FX35 03-08] need to replace bearing of powerdyne(s/c)
    By sch4400 in forum FX (03-08) - Boost, Track & Tuning
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-05-2010, 12:14 AM
  5. Hub and Bearing Assembly Replace
    By Toncruse in forum FX (03-08) - Wheels & Suspension
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 06-11-2009, 11:26 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:50 AM.